Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am converting my wire halyards to all line, internal, ran back to the cockpit. I would like some advice on where to mount the exit blocks. Do I also need to use blocks attached to the halyard plate before the lines go to the deck organizers? I have been reading posts on this site since I purchased my c-25 last fall. The information that is provided has been very much appreciated, thanks to all! Hopefully next spring she will be on the water again!
1980 Catalina 25 TR, FK, Traditional. Sailing on the Mississippi River, Portage Des Souix, MO.
Do you already have the mast plate with holes for attaching swivel blocks? If so, you may not need exit blocks. I've seen masts with an exit slot, about 2-3 inches long at different locations on the mast for the halyard to exit the mast and continue down to a turning block at the base of the mast. Most exit blocks I've seen have been installed at or very close (about 1" above the <s>bottom</s> mast step) to the base of the mast. What you want to avoid is placement that creates a tripping hazard by the line running from the mast to the turning block at the edge of the cabin top.
BTW, Frank used swivel blocks on the mast base plate to make the halyards less of a tripping hazard. It doesn't look like you can make the exits much lower--the factory position appears to be just above the tabernacle.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Do you have, or ever plan to have, a furler? If so, I wouldn't bother leading the jib halyard aft to the cockpit.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...unless, as discussed on another thread, it's a Snapfurl, which reportedly wants to be de-tensioned a little before rolling or unrolling the sail. Otherwise, yes--I led my main halyard back and left the jib halyard on the mast cleat. But my Hood furler was happy under pretty high tension.
I have the halyard plate that goes under the tabernacle and exit blocks, they just need to be installed. I decided to go with internal halyards, just my preference. I have a CDI Flex furler, but will run a jib halyard for future options (Changing to a hank-on jib or to fly a spinnaker). The boat is in my backyard, with the stick down, so I have run conduit and new wire, replaced nav lights, and installed new spreader boots. When the mast is all squared away I will turn my attention to the bottom paint and replacing through-hulls and ball valves. Thank you all for the fast responses and pictures, they are very much appreciated.
Be prepared to elongate 1 or 2 (or more) of the holes in the mast plate to get things to line up. Many here have had to do this. Given the thickness and toughness of the grade of the stainless - it is a difficult process when done by hand.
My machinist friend even complained and he used an end mill!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.