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Unstable Tillerpilot

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JAB
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/15/2011 : 09:42:12

The autopilot (Raymarine ST1000Plus Tillerpilot) had been working great for the last several seasons. I use it mostly while motoring under diesel-engine power.

This season it's been dropping out of Automatic mode and into Standby, i.e. losing lock on the magnetic heading. No change to the location of anything ferrous in the cockpit that might affect the internal compass readings. No change to power supply or electrical connections (simple 12V connection, no NMEA or SeaTalk data coming in from a nav system or wind instrument).

Raymarine tech help says to check the operation of the "rudder feedback transducer," which I'll do next.

When that was mentioned, it got me thinking... While hand-steering, while motoring, did I feel a constant helm pressure to one side, or was it just my imagination?

Any thoughts?

Joe J. Hull # 5442,'86 FK/SR w/Univ M-12 Diesel. Western Long Island Sound.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 09:57:15

Joe,
I notice, while motoring, I need to have the engine turned just a bit to port (my engine is mounted on the port side) to assure the propeller wash does not excessively push against the rudder. It can provide quite a bit of sidewards push to the rudder if not adjusted properly.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 10:12:21

Joe, since it looks like you're running an inboard diesel, the effect of prop wash should not have changed unless you've changed your propeller, it has excessive growth on it, or gotten dinged somehow. With our outboard, I have to angle it slightly to get a neutral rudder.

You've probably already tried to re-calibrate it by driving around in circles?

You've already checked that there's no difference in ferrous metals in the cockpit, how about in the cabin below it? We had some friends experience similar problems like you're describing, and it was driving them crazy. It turned out that their niece had brought aboard large tin of crayons and stored them in a cubbyhole in the cabin, about 6" from the fluxgate compass. The tin was made of steel and affected the compass, so their autopilot wouldn't hold a course. Once they removed the tin and re calibrated, the problem went away.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9017 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 10:23:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I notice, while motoring, I need to have the engine turned just a bit to port...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yup, but he's talking about an inboard diesel. Joe, assuming you have a right-hand prop (turns clockwise in forward when looking at it from astern), if the boat is constantly trying to turn slightly to port, it's probably the normal "prop-walk" effect that pushes the stern to starboard. This will be more pronounced when starting, throttling up, or pushing hull-speed than when cruising at a fairly easy speed.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/15/2011 10:26:10

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 13:41:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Yup, but he's talking about an inboard diesel.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Missed that.

Edited by - on

JAB
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 19:00:47

On the possible rudder imbalance, it could be me imagining things. Thought I noticed it while running at constant cruising rpms in flat water and dead calm. Then again...

No changes to prop nor any dings I'm aware of. Scraped and scrubbed of growth 2 weeks ago. Same for rudder.

Latest opinion from Raymarine tech help is that there may be low voltage to the Tillerpilot. Guess it's time to take apart the socket screwed into the coaming near the autopilot mount and take a wire brush to it. Maybe some dielectric grease, too.

Edited by - on

WesAllen
Navigator

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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 19:22:01

Mine was doing the same exact thing. I started watching it real close and found that it would lose power for just a second and be right back on, thus losing the auto part. I disassembled all of the connections and found one of the wires inside the connection (tiller side) was carroded. I cleaned it and will try it tomorrow to see if that took care of the problem.

Wes

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 19:38:35

If you're working on corrosion, get yourself a fiberglass corrosion pen. It's about a 1/4" of bundled fiberglass that works wonders.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9017 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2011 : 20:01:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JAB
 ...Maybe some dielectric grease, too.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Be aware that dielectric grease is non-conductive grease--an insulator. It helps prevent metal corrosion (as does any oil or grease), but it does not promote conductivity. It's OK (fair) for protecting connections that are already made (crimped to fasteners), but not great for plug-to-receptical or fastener-to-terminal connections. I lean toward a thin-film, dry lubricant with PTFE.

Let's see if "Marine EE" Voyager chimes in...

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/15/2011 20:09:26

WesAllen
Navigator

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USA
222 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2011 : 17:43:36

I used the Pilot all day today with and with out the motor running. It worked great with no jumping out of auto mode.

Wes

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2011 : 19:50:35

My autopilot hicupped on me today, but it was from me sitting on the cord, slightly pulling it out of the connnector. Of the 42 miles I sailed today, I'd bet 30-35 of them were on autopilot.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5239 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2011 : 21:05:39

Dave
I have no opinion either way on dielectric grease for preventing corrosion on electrical components. Generally, for plugs and the like, there is usually enough metal to metal contact to make a good connection. If you use it to block out moisture from the connections, it's sort of a crap shoot. The grease could form a barrier between the elements and the connection, or it might not. Better bet, buy connections with built-in O rings and watertight seals.
But, it couldn't hurt either.

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