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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
There is a lot of information on this forum about leaking windows. Rebuilding them seems to return marginal results. Some people rebuild them and they still leak. I am just replacing mine with plexiglass. There are several adhesives that can be used to seal the acrylic to fiberglass. Silicone should be avoided. The problem with silicone is that it will eventually loose it's seal and then nothing ...absolutely nothing will ever stick to it again. Sikaflex makes an adhesive made just for this purpose. Sikaflex 295 or something like that.
I keep a cover on our boat also, cuts down on the water intrusion, and keeps the deck cleaner.
I could also put this cover over the boom and secure the sides to the lifelines, say while at anchor. This was a Malibu powerboat cover I bought ebay and had modified for the C25.
I always tarp regardless, any boat will leak in the right storm. I will install new windows in my boat this spring and will continue to tarp. Saves wood, keeps out insects, keeps bird crap off your cabin top, and keeps the fiberglass from oxidizing too. I use nice boom tents as tarps.
HappyD do you have any pics, as I am seriously considering this mod myself. Are you planning to use just the adhesive to hold them on, or through bolting? How are you planning to finish the inside? I JC
I had the kit from CD for my windows (1982) but the seal that they send with it will not work with the original glass. I took my pieces to a local glass shop and they order the proper seal. Haven't had a leak since (a year and a half ago).
You have done a great job with that recoring. It is really clean. I have heard people say that plexiglass will not work on the older boats because the surface around the opening has a slight curve. Have you laid a straight edge over you window openings to check for any type of slope? Because of the lack of success, I think this is the scariest project for most C25 guys to do. I have heard that the kit from CD works and others say to toss the gaskets and just use different types of caulk.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Adam</i> <br />What can I do to stop my leaky windows other than replacing them completely? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You cannot. The window design is very poor. You can re-bed them and they won't leak for a year or two, but inevitably, they will leak again.
Here's a complete description of what I did to replace them.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Happy D</i> <br />justincase, you can see how I redid the interior here;
I haven't figured out how I'm going to attach the plexiglass, but I'm thinking through bolting with barrel nuts on the inside.
The portlights on my C&C 35 were originally installed without screws. They were "glued" into the openings with a strongly adhesive type of caulk that is made specifically for that purpose. I plan to replace the portlights this year, and will not screw them in place. When you drill holes through plexiglass or similar materials, you create a very high risk that a crack will form at the hole and run. Plexi and other materials expand and contract, and, if you screw them too firmly in place, or don't allow them enough space to expand and contract, they'll break. I don't know the name and brand of the caulk that is used for the purpose, but I have seen it in a chandlery and know it's out there. (I found it at Zahneiser's ship's store, in Solomons Island, MD.)
If your portlights are curved, the adhesive caulk will hold them in just fine after it's cured, but you have to figure out a way to hold them firmly in place until it cures. A simple wood device will do the trick.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dmpilc</i> ...This was a Malibu powerboat cover I bought ebay and had modified for the C25. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
David - Do you remember the make and model # of your cover?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The portlights on my C&C 35 were originally installed without screws. They were "glued" into the openings with a strongly adhesive type of caulk that is made specifically for that purpose. I plan to replace the portlights this year, and will not screw them in place. When you drill holes through plexiglass or similar materials, you create a very high risk that a crack will form at the hole and run<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You are absolutely correct Steve, but the C&C had a smaller window and a counter-bore in the cabin side for the plexi to sit in. With our C25's the plex is surface mounted, on the older models it is anyway. There will be more movement between the plexi and the fiberglass. Holes that are melted through or polished will reduce the stress risers but it still might crack. I believe the widows Cruising Concepts sells have screws holes in them but I'm not positive.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">[Question for Happy D. What is the brand and model # of the opening ports you used to replace the old ones in the head area?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I have heard people say that plexiglass will not work on the older boats because the surface around the opening has a slight curve. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The curve is slight and the Plexi will bend just fine. I do however have some spare oven heating elements and I thought of bending the plexi to match the curve but I don't think it is warranted.
The coach sides where the opening ports site in the head area should be flat. If your coach sides are not flat and are delaminated from water, build a clamp and when you repair the core, clamp the wall so it is flat and 5/8" thick. The opening ports will fit so nice...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.