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I want to do some work on my 1989 Suzuki 8HP outboard. Problem is I cannot get it off the motor mount because the hold down clamps are seized in the mounting bracket.
Over the years I've tried to get it to loosen up by applying various types of penetrating lubricants and rust/corrosion busters but to no avail.
Possibly try heating up the clamp a bit with a mini-blow torch/soldering/brazing gun - Then use pliers, etc to try and turn the clamp handle. I know that I have done this with some fasteners but not related to my boat. Auto mechanics will somentimes heat up the tie rods when they have to break them free to do adjustments as part of a wheel alignments. So...maybe that will work.
Gary, If you have a Garhaur mount It might be possible to remove the 4 bolts that hold the mounting plate to the mount to get the engine off. Once off then it might be easier to work on the clamps.If you try heat you need to heat the mounting bracket, Not the threaded clamps to expand the metal and loosen it's grip on the threaded clamps.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I would check with Suzuki to see if you can purchase replacement clamps, if so I would cut them so you can remove your motor, then replace the clamps with new ones. I would not want to remove the motor mount unless it was the only last effort option.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Thanks guys. I thought about heating the clamp but a little worried due to the close proximity to the fuel connection and the carb.
I once had a Honda Prelude and when I tried to change the spark plugs in the aluminum head the plugs were very tight. The first one started to squeak really loud when I tried to loosen it. I knew if I kept going I would tear the threads out of the head.
Started the car for about 30 seconds, went back to take the plug out, and it came right out with no damage to the threads.
quote:I would not want to remove the motor mount unless it was the only last effort option.
Wasn't what I suggested. Only the plate so its easier to work on. Definitely wouldn't cut them without having replacements but cutting them doesn't solve the problem of getting them out of the brackets. A combination of heat plus penetrating oil will generally free most things given time and perseverance. Gentle wiggling back and forth until some movement is seen or felt. Once slight movement has been established, continue with the penetrating oil treatment and wiggling until full movement is achieved. I've freed lots of bolts, blocks and shackles by this method but it does take time!
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I came across this method of getting the penetrating oil into the center by drilling a small hole to allow the penetrating oil soak in. Start the video at 5:13. Worth a try.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXuom3Pk2wQ
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I understood what you were saying about removing the plate the motor is mounted to. I thought about that as well but a couple of the bolts are underneath the motor bracket so I can't get to them (maybe with a sawzall). Really don't want to go that route unless I have to.
Is there any way to get a pipe wrench on the bolt? I've used that tool successfully when nothing else worked. If I can't get enough leverage I slip a 1" pipe over the handle.
Pipe wrench would probably break the the wing handles off and chew up the threads. In the video the guy shows this in the first half how people try wrenches without much success usually resulting in breaking the handles or snapping the threaded clamps off. I did a quick search on new replacements without much luck. Discontinued etc. So I would do my best to not destroy the ones he has.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Before I would resort to breaking out the heavy tools and possibly destroying the clamps I would try the non destructive ways first. Nothing to lose but a little time. If you do choose the heavy guns approach better have a plan B for repairing the possible damage.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
To avoid breaking the handles off you could possibly remove them as Bruce said by driving the little pins out then thread two nuts on and lock them together. Then you can use a box end wrench to apply pressure. This as long as the ends aren't flared out preventing you from getting the nuts over the ends.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
One of the handles is already broken off. The ends have flats so I could try a large crescent wrench but I'm going to go the lubricant and heat method first.
If that doesn't cut it I will take a sawzall and hack up the would mounting pad. I should then be able to remove the motor and can bring it home and work on freeing up the clamps at home.
I just read this thread... Tapping is definitely an important option to try. It can break loose the interior corrosion or galling that's at the heart of the problem. When all is said and done, make sure the threads are well coated with an anti-seize compound (as from Locktight or Permatex) before you clamp the motor back on.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I just read this thread... Tapping is definitely an important option to try. It can break loose the interior corrosion or galling that's at the heart of the problem. When all is said and done, make sure the threads are well coated with an anti-seize compound (as from Locktight or Permatex) before you clamp the motor back on.
He said he's had nuts that were completely covered in very heavy rust and were unable to be removed even when using a wrench and cheater bar. He sprayed them with this stuff and let them sit an hour or two and they came right off using his hands. I was highly skeptical to say the least having heard these type stories in the past.
I sprayed some on the motor mount clamp threads on Monday before I pulled the boat for the bottom job. Never had a chance to try any of the methods you guys mentioned above.
When I got back to my slip on Thursday I remembered I hadn't checked to see if it worked. Reached back expecting the clamps to still be solidly locked in place. With moderate pressure using just my hands and the motor clamp that still had the handle on it, it started turning! I was shocked.
Makes me wonder if it's an acid that keeps on "working" on the metal... (?)
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.