Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Just fiddling and experimenting with clay pots, candles, funnel and a tube to provide a bit of "dry heat", for our C250 during dreary, cold, windy and wet summer evenings and days.
The idea of using a couple of clay pots with candles or stove top to trap and radiate heat is not new. By adding an exhaust tube and vented to the outside we're hoping to redirect the production of water vapor as by-product to the outside...
Here is as far we got... next will be bending of an aluminum 3/4" tube venting to outside probably through the hatch...
4: inner clay pot with $.25 flue flow restriction
6" outer clay pot
Aluminum funnel with tube...
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
You're correct... I mentioned at that time that we're hoping to develop a heater that will produce dry heat, is functional, practical, economical, easy to store and use and is vented to the outside to get rid of by-products such water vapors, etc.
when on the hook we us a propane little buddy Mr heater and keep a hatch slightly open. we also use a origo non pressurized stove set on low with upside down clay pot. I found some pots that had small holes randomly around the sides as well as the larger one on the bottom. FYI we don't sleep with either one operating.
Lynn Buchanan 1988 C25 SR/WK #5777 Sailynn Nevada City, CA
I just pulled my C250 out at Bodega Bay after 6 months and brought it home to its boathouse, Cold season, and did use my fired clay pot as a heater. Be sure to vent as 250's are very air tight as sailboats go. As stated above: I NEVER use it while in the bunk. I place a beer bottle metal cap over the hole to slow direct heat rise to overhead and use my DC 30ma fan to circulate heat. This is an effective heating method, just be aware during use! Fishing and sailing sucked! Anyone who thinks global warming isn't an increasing problem sure isn't a sailor! Chief
COMPASS ROSE C250WK Tall Mast, Wing keel PORT CHIEF, Bodega Bay Ca. IE,EE,FCC lic #1890
1 tea candle puts out 250=300 BTU over its total burn time. A 1000 watt electric space heater puts out 3400 BTU/hour. Divide 300 by the number of hours a tea candle burns to compare (minus the signifiant portion that goes out the chimney) and decide if it is enough to make you comfortable. The low (500 watt or 1700 BTU) setting works for me on 45º-50º nights, but I do crank it up to "high" for an hour or so before turning it off and hitting the sack.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Hmmm... I was following this thread to see where it led... Most common types of combustion produce CO, which you don't know you have until it quietly puts you into a comfortable sleep--forever. A detector can be fooled--especially if it's not on or near the cabin ceiling. CO is about the same specific gravity as air, but warm CO is, of course, lighter than colder air. So placement of the detector is critical.
But I would never use a system that uses an flame where the combustion gases are not channeled through a pipe directly out of the cabin--especially when sleeping! A slightly open hatch somewhere is too random. The clay pot and Thomas's "radiator" are good for capturing and radiating some of the heat, but the flame from a carbon-based fuel is generating some amount of CO--who wants to guess how much? Who wants to bet lives on a CO detector operating properly?
Curmudgeon out.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
When cooking on the Princess one pit stove we normally have the hatch open with or without the pop-top. Sometimes during the evening we light a few "Coleman", utility candles which seem to reduce the chill somewhat. However, instead of drying a damp interior it adds more moisture to the interior.
Our experiment with the 2 clay pots on top of the stove and vented by using a funnel on top of the clay pots plus a tube vented through the hatch to the outside should work okay. The hatch will both provide incoming air and the opening for the tube.
Question is regarding the diameter of tube leading to the outside... Right now I'm experimenting with a 5/8" od tube and funnel diameter but am not sure that it will be sufficient of an opening to expel the gasses.
Another question is how to suspend, if it works at all, the exhaust tube
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
Dave: Placement of the detector is important but since propane fumes lie low, according to your reasoning, I guess you had better have 2. One high for low oxygen detection, CO and one low for propane? Chief
COMPASS ROSE C250WK Tall Mast, Wing keel PORT CHIEF, Bodega Bay Ca. IE,EE,FCC lic #1890
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.