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Polishing the hull

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SKS
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161 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/12/2016 : 06:19:31

My boat is pretty skanky looking. When I bought it last year I just sailed it. Now that the spring is here, I want to polish the hull and topsides.
I have a lot of oxidation, as well as just dirt that's built up.
I intend to get one of those 10" polishing machines.
Are there any recommendations for polishing compound ? I was thinking of Meguir's dual action polish.
Is there a marine grade product I should be using instead ?

"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339
Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3312 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 09:20:25

Buy a PoliGlow kit online @poliglow.com. It contains the prep solution which will remove all the oxidation and dirt. The you just wipe on the poliglow itself giving about 4-5 coats. A chamois applicator and block come in the kit.You will be able to use the hull as a mirror to shave in! Just make sure that you remove every stain or rub mark before applying the poliglow.
You don't need a buffer, you avoid all the hard work involved in a wax polish and the whole boat can be done in 2-3 hours.

Derek Crawford
Chief Measurer C25-250 2008
Previous owner of "This Side UP"
1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized"
San Antonio, Texas

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 09:20:31

Some products might be marketed as "marine", but that is nonsense. Dual action products are are a blend of coarseness and work pretty well, but you might need to start coarser for heavy oxidation. You will still probably need to finish off with a fine polishing compound. Just keep in mind that you are taking off gelcoat with abrasives and choosing your starting coarseness is the hard part. I would seek local suggestions from a knowledgeable person who can see your hull. You might consider starting coarse fiberglass compound by hand since the machine can cut pretty fast.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Edited by - Dave5041 on 03/12/2016 09:22:53

Russ.Johnson
Commodore

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Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 09:48:52

Here's a recent post about waxing and polishing.
You might find the same approach applies in your case.
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29652

In that post, there is a link to an external website.
http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266

In the SailboatOwners post, it has several pages of the step-by-step process.
You might not use every step, but it gives a good explaination of what to look for.

If your hull is as skanky as you say, then you will need an acid-based hull cleaner.
I recommend "Mary Kate's On/Off Hull Cleaner". It has original liquid version and gel version.

Russ Johnson
2005 C250WB Hull 793

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 11:42:08

I'm with Derek on Poli Glow--it's great on an older hull, with by far the least effort--including a quick "dress coat" each year. It lasts long enough that eventually it needs to be removed and started over. However, folks who strive for a hull that looks like a new car scoff at PG... You can indeed get a higher gloss by following the multiple steps with paste wax, buffing, and finally glazing... To each his own. To me, a boat only needs to look like a boat--not like a car.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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3992 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 11:51:18

quote:
Mary Kate's On/Off Hull Cleaner

A word of caution in using hull cleaners. Oxalic acid is there main ingredient. If you get it on any bottom paint that contains copper it will discolor it. If your boat is on a trailer that is galvanized it will eat the coating.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

cshaw
Captain

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Response Posted - 03/12/2016 : 18:05:20

quote:
Originally posted by Stinkpotter

To me, a boat only needs to look like a boat--not like a car.

I love my boat, but I have to agree with Stinkpotter! Confetti has a few years on her, and so do I (I think she has aged better than I have however!!!), so I do not expect her to look like she looked when new.....

Chuck

Chuck Shaw
Confetti
Cat 25, hull#1
1976 FK/TR

SKS
Navigator

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161 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2016 : 11:02:40

quote

True, but I want it to look like a CLEAN boat, not a skanky one.
If I knew how to post pictures, you'd see what I mean. The water line is particularly grungy.

"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339
Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5851 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2016 : 11:42:33

quote:
Originally posted by SKS

quote

I love my boat, but I have to agree with Stinkpotter! Confetti has a few years on her, and so do I (I think she has aged better than I have however!!!), so I do not expect her to look like she looked when new.....

Chuck

True, but I want it to look like a CLEAN boat, not a skanky one.
If I knew how to post pictures, you'd see what I mean. The water line is particularly grungy.

I think, before you either wax the boat or Poli Glow it, you have to first clean the dirt and grime from the boat. Otherwise, you'll just end up with a dirty, but very glossy, boat.

The grungy waterline is probably a combination of oil, dirt, algae and lime that has accumulated. Start by just washing it with soap and water, to remove any loose dirt. Then, there are numerous substances that can be used to clean it. I always used diluted muriatic acid. I don't remember how much I diluted it. I think it was 50-50. There is debate as to what to use or not to use. Muriatic worked for me just fine. Others recommend dilute hydrochloric acid or oxalic acid. Some recommend toilet bowl cleaner and others recommend oven cleaner. You can also buy products at Westmarine and elsewhere that are designed for that purpose, but they'll cost more, and I doubt that they'll work any better. Obviously, cover your arms, wear goggles and use a respirator and protective gloves.

Also, before you either wax or Poli Glow the boat, scrub the entire hull with Soft Scrub and a nylon bristled scrub brush. That will get the ground-in dirt out of the gelcoat. Don't be overly aggressive with the scrubbing. Once it's clean, then you can decide whether to use wax or Poli Glow. I have never used Poli Glow, but those who use it say it's excellent for boats with severely oxidized gel coat. Based on what others have said about Poli Glow, it sounds like your boat would be a good candidate for Poli Glow, instead of wax.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Edited by - Steve Milby on 03/13/2016 11:46:00

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/13/2016 : 14:34:12

O.K your in Norwalk Cove so you probably have the yellow/brown tanic acid stain just above the waterline and up the nose of the boat. Very difficult to remove. I do suggest a hull cleaner to remove those stains. I use Starbrite instant hull cleaner for those stains. I put some on a sponge and wipe the stain. That's all you have to do. The stain will disappear within seconds. No rubbing or scrubbing needed. By using a sponge you can control where it is applied and how much without getting it on your bottom paint and also a bottle will last for many years this way. After that the Soft scrub is a good idea. It will remove a good amount of oxidation and dirt so there is less buffing needed to shine her up.
Short video on StarBrite https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ygi-T0VwW7E

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

DavidBuoy
Admiral

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707 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 05:03:14

Will the Poly-Glow prep or product itself damage any vinyl lettering?

Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 07:39:49

quote:
Originally posted by DavidBuoy

Will the Poly-Glow prep or product itself damage any vinyl lettering?

Poli Prep is strong stuff, but I don't recall any problems. But I wouldn't let it soak on vinyl too long, for fear it might soften the adhesive. Poli Glow is no issue.

Another variant of polymer finishes is Nu Finish (the car stuff)--I recall Practical Sailor rated it highly, and I've used it on my current boat. It shines and beads up water at least a year after application. But I've been having trouble with fading of the dark green gelcoat no matter what I put on it. I'm starting to get philosophical about that, too...

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
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Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 10:12:59

quote:
I've been having trouble with fading of the dark green gelcoat no matter what I put on it

Yea Dave, Iv'e seen that happen to many colored gelcoat hulls and was wondering how yours was holding up. A Benny across from me has a blue hull that he has the yard buff the hull every year to keep the white milkyness at bay but by mid season its back. Its a shame because it makes the boat look older. Its like my blue bootstipe. Looks great after I buff it in the spring but it doesn't last the full season before getting milky.
From the Poli Glow instructions.

quote:
Poli Glow is safe to apply over vinyl lettering or graphics.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 03/14/2016 10:37:44

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 10:36:56

Does anyone know if Poli Glow works as well on painted boats as on gelcoat, and, if so, if the process used to apply it is any different?

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 10:41:15

Fro the Poli Glow Site

quote:
Poli Glow will work on the following: Boats, RV's, Canoes, Motorhomes, Painted Fiberglass, Painted Metals, Rubber and Vinyl Lettering.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5851 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2016 : 10:44:54

Thanks Scott!

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 06/02/2016 : 17:39:58

I just tried Poli Glo for the first time. It's fantastic. You can see more results from Poli Glow here:

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29912

Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/

SKS
Navigator

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161 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2016 : 16:08:32

So................ It turns out that there is a coat of PoliGlow on the hull already. It seems that someone put the poliglow on which sealed in the dirt.
At this point, the only thing I can think of is to laboriously sand the hull down with some type of compound. I don't think the PoliGlow Prep takes off the old coats.
Since I've just had rotator cuff surgery, this looks like a job for next year. I'll just sail the hell out of it this year.
Any other suggestions ?

"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339
Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5851 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2016 : 16:43:19

I think you've made the right choice. Sail now, polish later.

Meanwhile, this guy appears to be the ultimate authority on restoring a shine to old gelcoat. Maybe his method will help. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html

Edit: Ooops! I see Russ already posted a link to Mainesail's method. Nevertheless, it's a good approach for a severe gelcoat problem.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Edited by - Steve Milby on 06/09/2016 16:48:07

JanS48
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Response Posted - 06/09/2016 : 23:15:20

Greetings, regarding hull cleaning and any of the other exterior smooth surfaces, I've had great success wet sanding with 1000 grit wet sandpaper. It seems to take off just the oxidation. When finished you can do a really nice buff & wax job if you like. This year I'm going with Poly-Glow. I'd bet it would also remove the P-G down the road. It sounds like it would be tedious to do the entire hull but it only takes a few hours once you get going.
HTH
Jan

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 06/10/2016 : 03:42:49

The Poly-Prep will take off the old PoliGlow coatings and it is a lot easier to use than an oxidation cleaner. Typically, when Poli-Glow is applied and especially for those using it for the first time, drips may solidify if you do not immediately go over the area you have just applied the Poli-Glow (always do a second swipe). When a drip does solidify (and it will in about a minute or less time), the easiest way to remove it is with Poli-Prep. I would follow the instructions carefully with Poli-Prep as far as dilution, etc. It is strong stuff.

I have been using Poli-Glow for over 10 years. After the initial year of putting on multiple coats, as recommended, then I mostly just wash the hull and apply to 2 coats annually. Any stains or areas with smudges, etc, I usually remove with oxidation cleaner since I have that on the boat all the time. Black streaks where the water run-offs are - Using Black Streak Cleaner is the way to go. Any even small, hardly noticeable dirt, stain or smudge once you put on the Poli-Glow and you see the shine, it also seems to magnify those contaminants. So best to really inspect the hull to ensure it is as clean as possible before applying the Poli-Glow.

Having used Poli-Glow for so many years, I do wind up, every year or two, selecting a section of the hull (ie. 1/3 of port or stbd side)where I remove the excess layers of Poli-Glow with the Poli-Prep. Then go over the entire hull with the annual 2 coats.

I have not yet applied the annual 2 coats for this year but the hull still looks fine - shiny. I'm right now working on something else which has turned into a bigger job than I expected - stripping off the layers of varnish on the companionway trim and boards. Once I get done with that, then I will turn toward Poli-Glow for the hull. Today - I'm sailing after work.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 06/10/2016 03:50:34

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 06/10/2016 : 04:07:54

Chuck,

I was re-reading your posting and you also indicated your boat needed a good cleaning topsides as well. One thing about the Poli-Glow, they recommend it for boats that are about 5 years old or older and that is because it has a slight tone to it but hardly noticeable on a boat hull that's not new. One time early on when I first started using the Poli-Glow, I decided to use it on the cockpit area. I found that I did not like the slight tonal quality which seemed to show more in the cockpit area even on an older boat. I had one heck of a time removing the Poli-Glow from the cockpit area and at that time I was using oxidation cleaner - I had not started yet with trying out their Poli-Prep product. Anyway, I mention this because, though unlikely, your topsides/cockpit area...maybe a PO used Poli-Glow on it and that would then make it more difficult to remove.

I eventually settled on using pure wax in the cockpit area. I do have to apply it about every month or so, otherwise may have to break out the oxidation cleaner for some areas. But I have found that the cockpit area is fairly easy to regularly maintain since I am on the boat frequently and the cockpit is readily accessible for doing the work and just sitting on your duff.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 06/10/2016 : 11:31:16

Personal opinion . . . . . before I would go with Poly-Glo I would first try to clean and polish in a more traditional way. In my case I polished myself and it made a big improvement. One year I had the yard (yes, Norwalk Cove) do a professional job and the boat looked great-- so good that when I polished my self the following year it still looked good. I view Poly-Glo as a last resort. Others may disagree with me, but gel coat usually can be brought back with a good cleaner/wax/buffer.

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 06/10/2016 : 13:24:50

quote:
Originally posted by bigelowp

...I view Poly-Glo as a last resort. Others may disagree with me, but gel coat usually can be brought back with a good cleaner/wax/buffer.

...and some serious elbow grease or $$$. I viewed Poli Glo as a fast and easy way to a "nice" (not "spectacular") shine that lasted longer than wax. Once a yard worker, paste waxing the hull of a boat near mine, watched as I wiped on my annual dress-coat of PG and was amazed--then she realized it was the kind of thing that could put her out of work!

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

SKS
Navigator

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161 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2016 : 09:21:40

WOW, what a company !!!!
I sent an email to the Poli Glow folks to ask them questions regarding my hull and the PoliGlow.
Within 10 minutes, I got a PHONE CALL !!!
That's what I call customer service !!!
Here's the gist of the conversation.
Poli Prep will not strip off the old Poli Glow. Evidently, it did years ago, but they have reformulated the product so that Poli Prep is a cleaner.
They make a product called Poli Strip to strip away the old layers of Poli Glow. To use it, you mix up the Poli Strip with water. They recommend using a spray bottle to apply the product. Only spray an area that you can clean in about 30 seconds. You spray the product on, let it sit for about 20 seconds, then scrub the area. After scrubbing, wash the area down with plenty of water in order to make sure you clean out all the Poli Strip. If it dries before you wash it off, the old PoliGlow will re-deposit on the hull. Once the entire hull has been cleaned with Poli Strip, use Dawn or some other cleaner and wash down the entire hull again.
After completely clean, you can apply the Poli Glow to shine up the hull. Apply 4 coats initially, then one or two coats in subsequent years to freshen the shine.
After about 5 years, you want to strip the Poli Glow, and start all over again.
One mistake that I may have made, you want to apply all the vinyl stickers such as registration numbers or name to a bare hull. If you apply them over Poli Glow, the adhesive may fail when you spray on the Poli Strip. Once the stickers are on teh bare hull, you can apply the Poli Glow to the vinyl stickers as well.
I'm not sure what I'll do. When I clean the hull, I'll try to be careful and not disturb the stickers, If I do, I'll just have to replace them.
As I said, I'm recovering from rotator cuff surgery. That whole wax on, wax off thing isn't working for me now.
I'll wait until next year and sail a less than optimal looking boat for this season.

"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339
Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut

Enchantment II
1st Mate

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Response Posted - 06/13/2016 : 09:16:33

I agree with Derick. Poly Glo is amazing. I have done the ritual of compounding, wax, buffing, etc. The results of Poly Glo in a few hours of easy work are great.

Joseph Henderson
82-CAT 25 TR SK

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