Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am getting ready to move from Norfolk to Corpus and plan on bringing my boat with me. Any advice on rigging the boat for trailering? Can the pullpit/pushpit alone support the mast well(biggest concern)? Do I need a crutch to support it? I am kind of think just getting a couple pool noodles to go between the mast and rails might do the trick, but I could sure use the insight of someone who does this regularly. If anyone has closeup pictures of how you rig it for trailering I would really appreciate it. I don't plan to trailer regularly, just for the move and haulout maintenance.
"Old Yeller" 1978 Catalina 25 FK Corpus Christi, TX
I bought a 4 x 4 hollow white plastic fence post and altered it so it would fit on the mast step and use the mast bolt to stay in place then cut a crotch shape at the height of the mast, it provided great center support... but to your question, the bow and stern rails can support the mast with no problem and the center support I used is to reduce flexing not really to carry weight. I used devices called Mast-up at each end to carry my mast because I over think things, you can carry the mast tied to the rails with a throwable cushion over the main hatch to stop the bounce.
With a fin keel boat, I suggest you lash the mast directly to the pulpits. You can wrap an old scrap of carpet around each rail to prevent the mast from scratching it. Also, as Frank suggested, you should lash a throwable cushion onto the mast to protect the companionway hatch from the mast. Don't use a mast-up on a fin keel boat. It sits much higher on the trailer than a swinger or wing, as I recall, about 12 feet. When you pull into a gas station, you'll need to watch the roof overhanging the gas pumps to be sure the boat doesn't hit the roof. It isn't often a problem, because most are high enough, but I saw a few old ones that weren't built high enough.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I trailer mine from MI to FL and back every year. The mast lays on the pulpits with a cushion I the middle over companionway hatch. I use rubber hose over the pulpit rails and two straps at each end to secure it. With 2 straps I feel better that if 1 fails there is still another. I check all of this every time I stop for fuel.
Wesley Allen "Breaking Wind" 1982 C-25 SR/TR/SK #2773 Hemlock, MI
Steve is quite correct on lashing the mast to the pulpits (with protection under it). Remember to remove the windex before you start out - it can generate enough "torque" at 60 mph to unscrew itself. The height of the boat over the trailer can be a major problem in any decent wind - so choose a calm day!
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
When I trailer mine I use the rear push pit with the mast lashed to the flag holder which is in the center . I have a crutch that I put in the tabernacle to support the middle of the mast, it has a piece of carpet on it. I have a piece of 2 X 6 that goes across the bow pulpit to hold the mast. It is cut out for the pulpit bars and holds the mast upright. I use those bungee ties with the ball to hold line, stays, spreaders and the furled jib in place. So far have not had any issues hauling. Sorry, I do not have any photos.
PS: We have a son in the Navy at Norfolk.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
I do not "regularly" trailer Confetti (Fixed Keel, Tall Rig) except for haulouts and when we are transferred.... So I have several trips of 100 miles round trip while in California, and one long haul from Ventura to Houston. Then several haulouts during the 30 years in Houston. All of that was with a 2 axle trailer.
in 2007 a triple axle trailer became available, and I sold the two axle for the triple axle. Wow, what a great improvement!! The triple is rated for 12,500 lbs and tows like a dream.... See the attached picture below....I do not trailer her with the rudder or outboard installed. The trailer has electric brakes on 2 of the 3 axles, and a breakaway switch that applies the brakes if the lanyard get pulled.
The rig is about 12ft 9 inches high to the highest point on the mast.. The mast rides on the Bow Pulpit and the Stern pulpit (with padding under the mast). I also insert padding between the mast step and the mast since the mast bows down a little. I lash a 2x4 across the bow pulpit, with a couple of "chocks" with a couple of towels wrapped around the mast for padding.
The upper shrouds and forward lower shrouds stay connected to the mast and chainplates, and have large gentle loops that are secured with bungee cords once the mast is lowered.
The mast lowers forward, using the boom as a gin pole and the main sheet taking the load. The forestay has a headfoil, so I secure the Jib halyard to the tack fitting and disconnect the forestay/headfoil and lay in back into the open Companionway hatch slide opening, then the main halyard connects to the boom back where the mainsheet also attaches, and we disconnect the aft lower shrouds to allow the mast to rotate forward. Then remove the boom (I have a sliding gooseneck fitting)
It was in this config when I towed her from Houston to Merritt Island, FL in 2009 when I retired. I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado with the large gas engine and towing package, and get 10mpg on the highway at about 60-65 mph.
cshaw raised another question. I was planning on leaving the outboard on the mount and tieing it off to something higher up to carry most of the load. Anyone ever tried anything like that or should I just not do that at all?
"Old Yeller" 1978 Catalina 25 FK Corpus Christi, TX
cshaw raised another question. I was planning on leaving the outboard on the mount and tieing it off to something higher up to carry most of the load. Anyone ever tried anything like that or should I just not do that at all?
From my observations, people who trailer with their outboards attached are in the minority. The forces exerted in the bracket and transom while trailering are different than on the water.
My O/B had remote controls in the cockpit which would have entailed major work to disconnect to enable the O/B to be removed from the transom. So we tied the motor to the base of the stern pulpit so that it could not move in any direction. We had no problem with the motor itself doing this, but on the horrible Oklahoma washboard freeways we vibrated the cowling off! (We were trailering from Canyon Lake to Lake Cheney in Kansas for the Nationals).
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
I've done it both ways. I prefer trailering with the motor on the mount. If you don't, you have to figure out how to either take it off at the launch ramp, when you haul the boat out, or, you have to lower it after it's on the trailer. In either case, removing the motor is a chore, and will probably require more than one strong person to do it. Putting an outboard motor on the mount or taking it off while the boat is on the trailer is precarious, especially if the boat is a fin keel. The boat sits high on the trailer, and you'll probably have to use a ladder and two strong people. The motor's center of gravity is high, at the power head, so, when you're raising it, leverage is working against you. It is probably more do-able on a swinger or wing. Nevertheless, leaving the motor on the mount is the easiest, but you have to be sure the mounting clamps are screwed down securely, and you have to attach a strong safety cable or chain, to hold the motor in case it jumps off the motor mount. I used a chain and padlock as a safety chain, because it also deterred possible theft of the motor. You should also check it periodically while on the road. I made several long hauls with mine, and many short hauls, and never saw a hint that the mount or transom was harmed in the slightest by carrying the motor on the mount.
There are really two questions here. (1) Is it better for the boat and motor to remove the motor from the mount when trailering? I'm sure it is. (2) Is it likely to harm the boat or motor? Probably not, if you secure it. The main drawback to removing it is that you have to figure out how to re-install it when you get to your destination.
Derek makes a good point about rough roads. When I ran into a rough area, I slowed down and put on my emergency flashers, and on a 4 lane road, pulled into the right hand lane. When pulling a heavy boat, you can't be in a hurry.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I leave my motor (108 lbs.) on the boat when trailering. But I do strap it with 2 or 3 straps that pull the motor bracket and all as high and close to the transom as possible. There is no movement that way. And by using multiple straps I can hook the straps in different places and take some strain of any 1 single point. I have been doing this for the past 5 years and it works for me.
Wesley Allen "Breaking Wind" 1982 C-25 SR/TR/SK #2773 Hemlock, MI
cshaw raised another question. I was planning on leaving the outboard on the mount and tieing it off to something higher up to carry most of the load. Anyone ever tried anything like that or should I just not do that at all?
Perhaps I should clarify what I posted.....
First, I fixed the photo link in my original post, so you can see how I carry the mast.
Second, if I am simply using the trailer for a haulout, and am not towing her a long distance over unknown roads, I leave the motor (9.9 Johnson electric start long shaft) and rudder in place, with the motor hoisted all the way up, and vertical (not kicked up) and lashed to the boat, and the tiller lashed in the center.
For anything more than that (like long distance hauling over roads I am not familiar with) I remove them both. I only need to disconnect the electrical cables, and the lock/chain from the motor. I leave the Michigan Wheel mount in its vertical tracks and lift the motor off of it. The motor weighs 82lbs, and does require being on a step stool to safely hoist it up off the mount (with the mount lowered all the way).
I can see why skippers that trailer more than I do would not want to have to remove their motors, especially if they have remote controls, etc. I agree if its secured properly the chances of damage to motor or boat are low. I just prefer to remove it.
Chuck, looking at the beautiful pic of "Confetti" makes me regret that we never had a chance to race each other. It would have been one for the ages!
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
Chuck, looking at the beautiful pic of "Confetti" makes me regret that we never had a chance to race each other. It would have been one for the ages!
Me too!!! Confetti has certainly profited from the Main and light air 155 from TSU, so in a sense we are racing "together" instead of against each other??? (maybe thats better since we BOTH win??? <grin>)
Chuck, I'm delighted that "2262" is still sailing along although vicariously. John Bartlett sure built powerful sails.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
Chuck, looking at the beautiful pic of "Confetti" makes me regret that we never had a chance to race each other. It would have been one for the ages!
I might have traveled to see that one! (I won't say "crew"--that would be a handicap!)
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
I have another add on question. Has anyone tried to put the boat (fin keel) on a trailer in the water? I've been shopping around and haul outs to a trailer are quite expensive around here (like $325). Would it be worth attempting to load in the water? The trailer I am getting has the pads and I'm pretty sure they will need to be adjusted. Another factor (which is relevant, but I'd like to know the answer otherwise) is that the water will be quite cold. I need to trailer in March in Hampton Roads, and I know how cold the water can be around here that time of year (its part of my job) so the time spent in the water may end up being my limiting factor. Just curious. Thanks for the input as always.
"Old Yeller" 1978 Catalina 25 FK Corpus Christi, TX
I trailered a fin keel C25, and you can load and unload it if you can get the boat into water that's deep enough to float it on and off the trailer. If the water at the ramp is only 4 feet deep, and you need 5 feet to float it off the trailer, you're not going to get it off the trailer. It helps if your trailer has a tongue extension. My trailer was an EZ Loader, and it could launch and retrieve in only about 4 feet. A bunk type trailer needs a little deeper water, but I have seen them launch and retrieve many times.
When you trailer launch, you should unplug the trailer lights. (lightbulbs sometimes are ruined by immersing them in cold water when they're hot.) Also, after launching, especially in salty water, rinse the trailer frame and brakes and re-pack the axles with grease.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I'll also recommend Bearing Buddies, which use spring pressure to keep grease in the bearings and water out. Pump them up with a grease gun before each dunking of the trailer.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
When I was active in my local reservoir, we'd launch and retrieve in what I considered cold water. Launch was usually April 1 or there abouts, and retrieval was no later than Oct. 31. I used neoprene waders, which kept me plenty warm enough.
Regarding ramp launching and retrieving a fin keel boat, many of our members did this. One even had a Catalina 27 on a flatbed trailer, and there was even a 29 foot Pearson launched at the reservoir ramp. There are no crane facilities on the local reservoir, you see. These folks with larger fin-keel boats always used straps. Even the trailer extension, which I had on my C25 wing keel, was I think only 8 feet long, and was just barely long enough for my boat. The people with the larger fin keep boats have straps that could be 20 or 30 feet long, if memory serves. I used straps once and it was much easier than the trailer extension. My trailer was an EZ loader like Steve's.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.