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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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VC-tar

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Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/04/2005 : 14:04:06

In a previous post, I asked if VC-17 paint will stick to ablative bottom paint. The answer I expected and got was "no". Now I discover that there's a special primer called VC-tar. What is this stuff? Is it really tar, that black gooey stuff? I assume that it has better adhesive properties than the VC-17 paint itself. I'm not planning to simply paint over my ablative paint, but I'm concerned that there will be little spots where I don't get it all off.

Thanks

Bruce Baker
Falls Church, VA
"Yee Ha" 3573
'83SR/SK

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 14:29:29

VC Tar is the sealer/base coat for VC17. Without it VC-17 will not adhere to the fiberglass bottom. VC-Tar also protects agains water intrusion into the fiberglass which causes blisters. It is black but not as thick as the tar you are thinking of. You can roll it on with a roller or brush it on, but not spray it on.

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 14:49:47

If you are sanding it all clean it would be a great time to put a barrier coat on while it's clean. I believe you will find that Interlux recommends this set up: Interprotect 2000 or 3000; then VC-tar, then VC-17. Their web site is if anything over abundant with information.
I'm in the process of doing my hull as well and I'm stripping everything. So far, I have found 4 distinct types of paint on the hull and no, I don't mean 4 coats, I mean 4 different types of paint!
Good luck.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 15:23:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by existentialsailor
 ...I believe you will find that Interlux recommends this set up: Interprotect 2000 or 3000; then VC-tar, then VC-17. Their web site is if anything over abundant with information...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Rick,

According to an Interlux rep that gave a presentation at my local West Marine, if you are using VC-17 the only epoxy barrier coat and primer you need to use is VC-Tar. Additionally, I can't find anything on the Interlux website concerning using Interprotect in conjunction with VC-Tar.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by existentialsailor
 ...I'm in the process of doing my hull as well and I'm stripping everything. So far, I have found 4 distinct types of paint on the hull and no, I don't mean 4 coats, I mean 4 different types of paint!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I, too, found many conflicting types of paint when I stripped my hull! Not fun.

Edited by - dlucier on 04/04/2005 15:23:55

Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 15:44:56

BTW, I'll pass on a piece of advise on stripping hulls. The best racer in our club has a Porter Cable 97366 random orbiter sander. It's the bomb! It's a 6" sander (compared to my 5" one), it has a dust hood to attach to a shop vac (mine has an attachment, but no hood--dust goes everywhere). Available on Amazon.com

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 16:28:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Bruce Baker
 BTW, I'll pass on a piece of advise on stripping hulls. The best racer in our club has a Porter Cable 97366 random orbiter sander. It's the bomb! It's a 6" sander (compared to my 5" one), it has a dust hood to attach to a shop vac (mine has an attachment, but no hood--dust goes everywhere)...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

When I stripped my hull, I started out trying to sand it off, but the old paint was soooo thick it only took seconds before the sandpaper was clogged. I ended up using a pull scraper to remove the bulk of the paint followed up with the sander.

Either way, it was an exhaustingly, big job!

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 17:12:26

I believe that the "tar" refers to "modified coal tar epoxy", which is not the asphalt tar that you are thinking of, but rather it is an epoxy used in industrial applications.

I bought a Bosch random orbital sander from Home depot, and hooked it up to my shop vac. I had to kinda make a duct tape adapter, but it worked. You should also put a drywall filter bag in your shop vac to keep the toxic dust down. I found that the 3-m brand 60 grit sandpaper works the best in stripping bottom paint. It doesn't clog as fast, and lasts longer. It costs a little more than the cheap sandpaper, but probably worth it in the long run.

If you are sanding, make sure you get the 3-M respirator which costs about 40 bucks. It has paper, and charcoal filters also for volitiles. Bottom paint is extremely toxic and we don't want to lose the 20 dollar dues from anybody.

I don't envy anybody doing a bottom job. Been there done that, on my C22, and hafta do it on my C25 soon.

Edited by - on

existentialsailor
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1180 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2005 : 18:02:50

Don,

Your right about the VC-Tar and Interprotect, I read the chart wrong, my apologies. I've been reading so much about this stuff lately it's all starting to munge together in my brain.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2005 : 10:01:12

Carefully follow the directions on the label of the barrier coat (VC Tar or Interprotect 2000) and your antifouling paint. After you apply each coat of barrier coat, you should apply the next coat within a specific time window. After you apply the last coat of barrier coat, you should apply the first coat of antifouling within a specific time window. Finally, each coat of antifouling should be applied within the time window recommended on the can. Before you start, check your weather for the next three or four days, and schedule the timing of each coat.

The reason for following this timing is so that each coat of paint will chemically bond with the previous coat. I believe many of the instances when bottom paint peels severely after the first year is because people didn't follow those recommendations.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 04/05/2005 10:03:03

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2005 : 17:28:08

Steve is right

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