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Filling holes

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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/16/2015 : 09:32:13

Hello All,
I'm about to remove my To-hulls and gate valves. I will be relocating the new thru hulls and will need to fill the existing holes.my question is, is it OK to fill with 5200 or should I use thichened epoxy..? Thanks again.
Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2015 : 13:12:22

Neither. A hole below the waterline should be glassed in with fiberglass mat and unthickened resin. I recall West System has good manuals on how to do it right, tapering the outside of the hole and using overlapping layers, as do various books on fiberglass boat repair by the likes of Don Casey. A plug of either caulk or epoxy is liable to pop out, and you know the rest.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 10/16/2015 13:14:18

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/16/2015 : 15:28:08

Here's Don Casey's article on repairing a hole in fiberglass.

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor

Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2015 : 07:30:20

Thanks Guys,

As always you are a wealth of information.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2015 : 07:40:47

You've probably thought about it, but, unless there is a compelling reason to relocate the holes, it would be much easier to put new valves in the same holes and be done with it.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2015 : 08:38:30

quote:
Originally posted by Steve Milby

...it would be much easier to put new valves in the same holes and be done with it.

Ditto.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 10/17/2015 : 13:51:20

I agree with Steve and Dave. Any particular reason you want to relocate them?

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 10/18/2015 : 10:01:22

Hi Everyone,

Yes, there is a very real reason to reloacte the holes. In my boat, Catalina decided to mount the Too-hulls straight up and down rather than 90 degrees from the hull. If I tried to install the mushroom marelon thru-hull like that, it could not seat flush with the outside of the hull. Nore could the mounting nut seat flush inside the hull. The other reason is that I want the head sink drain seacock located directly under the sink rather than under the starboard settee just aft of the head compartment bulkhead.
Even if I wanted to reinstall them in the same place, I would need to fill and redrill. Thanks again all. good sailing.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 10/18/2015 : 19:26:13

Most descriptions here for that job have included grinding away the epoxy "mushroom" on the inside of the hull, to eliminate the problem I suspect you're describing. Here's an excellent description from our Tech Tips section. (Thanks Todd!)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 10/18/2015 19:34:14

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2015 : 06:41:25

Update:

I was at the boat yesterday and after clearing out the stuff that was in the cabinet under the head sink I discovered that there is a "level" floor there. So I will not be able to move the sink drain there after all. But I bet you all knew that already.
So it will be staying in the same compartment it was in to begin with. Seems I discover something new about the boat each time I open up a new compartment. I will say that in my boat's case the too-hulls and gate valves were tough to remove. I have the gate valves off but still have to figure out how to get the bronze pipe nipples out of the hull.
Thanks again for your patients and noob tolerance. Be safe all.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1736 Posts

Response Posted - 10/20/2015 : 15:15:45

If you check out the archive section and use various keywords you should see several threads and more than a few descriptions of owners who have replaced, modified and /or relocated all types of through hole fittings on our boats -- take advantage of our collective wisdom as to what to -- and what not to do -- as chronicled in the archives.

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2016 : 13:54:39

I'll re-open this topic with a link to a new Sail magazine article on patching over unwanted thru-hull holes in the hull in case someone searches on this subject:

Sail Magazine Hole Patching Article

I'll offer an opinion that if this guy could have accessed the area inside of the hull, he should (and probably would) have done some of the same process there. Presumably, he could simply overlay the inside surface with a couple of layers since there's probably no reason to make it fair or smooth. The objective is simply to reinforce against any tendency for the patch to break away toward the outside.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/11/2016 13:55:52

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