Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The tap has a manual hand pump. It appears this connects to the water tank on the starboard side. When I pump the handle I do not get any water to flow through.
My first question is how do I get at the faucet and the attached hose to evaluate the situation. There is a set of drawers below the sink. The drawers are set in a cabinet. When I pull the drawers out I can see that the hose from the water tank seems to go up behind the cabinet to the faucet. I want to get at the base of the faucet. Do I need to take the drawer cabinet out? This looks like a bit of a production. Alternatively, it looks like I could get in from the quarter berth. There is a panel that looks like if I remove it I will see in behind the drawer cabinet but it appears the panel is attached with bolts that I can't unscrew without holding the nuts on the other side.
How do I get in to a assess the problems with my faucet?
What am I likely to find when I get there?
Is there an easier way to diagnose and possibly fix my hand pump?
One other thing, I note some of you have removed your water tanks and bleached them. Is that right? I don't see how I could get my water tank out without disassembling it.
Thanks.
David Hopkins Vancouver, British Columbia '78 Swing Keel, Standard Rig, Dinette #534
The faucet on my 1984 was still being made and there was a $25 rebuild kit for it.
The faucet is removed using a threaded ring that is below the faucet, around the hose that goes into it. You can remove it then rebuild it once it is loose. It only takes a couple of minutes.
The plunger that pulls water has probably rotted away and isn't building any suction. The rebuild kit will fix that.
My water tank was a bit annoying to remove, but slipped out once emptied and disconnected from the water lines.
Thanks Akex. What I still don't understand is how I get access to the threaded ring below the faucet. Isn't that under the counter? I can't figure out how to get at that area.
I had to remove the sink in order to get enough purchase on the threaded ring. The fittings securing the sink to the cabinet were almost totally rusted away (1981 C-25) so it didn't take much effort to remove it and it made access to the threaded ring simple.
In my boat I had to rebuild the faucets and getting the retaining nut off was not a problem, however, a friends boat was another story. The nut on his was a real problem. I had to build a deep socket to get it off and it was a battle all the way.
Our cabinet had no top to it.....pull the drawers and you can see the sink base. The cabinet is held in only with the face frame, removal is very simple.
One other thought, a PO had plumbed in an on-demand pump to pressurize the water. The faucet guts were then removed using a foot switch to run water. Follow the line from tank to faucet to make sure there are no other systems installed preventing water flow to the faucet.
My hand pumps were not working either....I pulled the spout off from the top of the pump, poured some water down there to prime it and lubricate it and they both started working. Give it a shot. Time will tell whether mine needs a rebuild.
my hand pumps stopped working a few years ago. I opened them up after fishing for the nut holding them on, and greased up the pistons with Vaseline. They both still work fine.
Jim, that kind of worked for me. I just put my hose up to the tap and forced some water down. The pump then worked. Kind of. If I leave the pump handle in the forward position (after the cycle where water does not pump through) then the pump stays primed for at least a few hours. Otherwise it loses it's prime in a short time and I have to force more water down. Not a long term solution but a good start.
You will need to remove it, however, because the guts are accessed from under the base.
Just a suggestion: if there hasn't been fresh, chlorinated water circulating through the tank and hoses you might want to flush the tank (I added a Beckson access plate in the top and got in there and brushed-out the slime) and replace the hoses (they get slime inside as well). Typical: ya' solve one "challenge" and that just raises another.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.