Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I generally do not like to ask for help but the time I have to complete this deal is limited. I have read most of the postings dealing with the WB and made some internet and youtube searches on the WB system but I would really appreciate some input.
Here is the problem: The boat has been in salt water for two years and the WB has never been drained, flushed or cleaned. I asked the current owner to see how the WB system work by draining it and refilling the WB. He told me he has never done it because it's on a slip for the past 2 years. There are no moisture in the valve area but the bilge has a small amount of standing rusty looking water which has some chemical smell (about a pint). The area around the standing water in the bilge was dry. I looked that the 250 WB manual online but it did not have any picture/diagram of the WB system. My 2 concerns are:
1. Is that standing water in the bilge a sign of a WB leak? 2. How do I check for damages in the WB due to it holding salt water for two years?
The current owner is a very nice man but he does not have the time to maintain the boat (He told me that's the reason he is selling it).
Thanks in advance and I hope to join this forum on a regular basis very soon.
If the WB tank was leaking, you'd have a lot more than an inch or two of water in the bilge. That much water could come from anywhere and it's impossible to tell without more investigation. But, frankly, I wouldn't worry about it unless it recurrs quickly after being dried out.
Others with a WB will chime in but I don't think there's an issue with the water remaining in the WB tank all that time. I'd imagine it prbably smells pretty bad and has a number of living organisms in it but, that can be cured with a bottle of Clorox.
I wouldn't worry about that much water either. That ballast tank can be flushed at the slip. However you'll be putting clean salt water back in. I gather there is no trailer. I hope you've had some what of a survey. If not I'd make sure the centerboard raises and lowers also, which series rudder is installed. You would get more info here if you told us what year the boat is and motor.
It's a 9hp outboard. I did not hire a surveyor but it looks like I will have to replace the standing rigging. It also need a bottom job. I will take your advice and will inspect the centerboard when we put it on the trailer.
Bubba, You don't need to inspect the centerboard, you need to be sure it raises and lowers without to much difficulty. You can't do that on a trailer. What year is the boat? You should really find out what series rudder is on the boat. A lot of WB owners are members of this forum and can offer furthur info if needed.
Don't discount how much work a bottom job is going to be. Depending on where you are and what kind of growth is on there, you could be looking at a very big job (ask me how I know). If you've got mussels & barnacles like I did, it's not going to come off with a pressure washer.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bubbagulf</i> <br />...it looks like I will have to replace the standing rigging... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> It seems a little premature to replace all the standing rigging on a 2003 boat. Has there been some specific damage to it?
Maybe I'm naive, since I'm in fresh water. Did anyone else here have to replace standing rigging after 9-10 years?
I am a rookie but I was told that saltwater can deteriorate everything including stainless steel. There are some rust in the wires inside the turnbuckle and plate area. Standing rigging replacement by the boatyard is around $1500-$2000. DIY with the kit from Catalina Direct is $400....I will need to learn how to calibrate the proper tension on the rigging.
Scrapping and bottom job by the boatyard should be around $1300 including barnacles disposal fee. DIY will be around $500.
Tensioning the rigging is something that you'll need to learn whether you replace the rigging now or not. As I understand it, 5 years is the recommended time for replacing the standing rigging in salt water and 10 years in fresh. But, I don't think many actually do it that often.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Russell</i> <br />...As I understand it, 5 years is the recommended time for replacing the standing rigging in salt water and 10 years in fresh...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'd call that overly conservative. For the quality and robustness of Catalina's rigging (and Catalina Direct's replacements), I'd say 10 years in salt water is conservative, but 15 is the safe maximum--maybe less in year-round warm climes. It's always a good idea to inspect the swages, especially at the bottoms of the stays by the turnbuckles, where salt can build up. One crack in the swage or "meat-hook" in the wire, and you need to act. Some people put a stripe of nail polish on the cable right by the top of the swage... Later, if any bare cable shows below the stripe, it's a sign of trouble. (The cable is probably parting inside the swage and trying to pull out.)
I am in the Houston, Texas area and I will try to post the photos or photo link of the standing rigging. I am 90% sure (cause the wife approved) that I will get this boat. I have also budgeted an additional $2500 for diy projects.
Except for cushions and axle jobs, the estimate for DIY repairs: Standing rigging $500 Bottom Sanding and paint $500 Re-upholstered aft berth cushions by a local shop $500 (This was based on a recent work of re-upholstered a v-berth on an 1988 Catalina 22 for $300). Jib repair $300? Gel coat polish and wax $100 Trailer 2 axles lube job $130. Misc. supplies $300
Thanks to Stinkpotter, John, Takefive, Delloittg and Bear for all of your professional advice and inputs.
I've been to West Marine many times but never had a card on me and I've never worked there but I do feel like a part owner with all the money I've spent there.
Where's the boat you're interested in docked? Do you plan on keeping it in the water most of the time? There's a C250 and and two C25's on my dock in Clear Lake Shores (Kemah).
The boat is located on a waterfront residential slip. If the deal goes through, I will keep it in dry storage for 2 months for maintenance work and then look for a wet slip around Kemah in Feb 2013.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bubbagulf</i> <br />The boat is located on a waterfront residential slip. If the deal goes through, I will keep it in dry storage for 2 months for maintenance work and then look for a wet slip around Kemah in Feb 2013. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Bubbagulf,
If you haven't closed on the C250-Water Ballest yet you might want to take a look at this C250-Wing Keel (5" more headroom) that just went up for sale recently near my slip. It looks like a nice boat and it appears the owner has taken good care of it. It just had a bottom job 2 - 3 months ago. Wheel steering and Raymarine Tri-Data instruments. Although the motor is listed as a 2007 electric start it still looks brand new.
The one time I spoke to the owner he mentioned his wife was sick and not able to sail with him too much anymore. I'm not sure that's why he's selling but I suspect that has something to do with it.
I keep my 2010 C250 WB here in Nassau Bay behind the house. I'm on Swan Lagoon just off Clear Lake and have a boat lift in my boathouse. It's nice to know there is going to be another WB around. We'll have to race sometime.
I need a recommendation on boatyard in Kemah for some repair/maintenance work on the 250WB. Specifically, minor fiberglass repair, adjust steering wheel,replace centerboard line and may be bottom job.
Who should I go to?
South Texas Yacht Services. OJsMarine at Seabrook shipyard. CRP Marine at Clear Lake Marine Center.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bubbagulf</i> <br />GaryB and David:
I need a recommendation on boatyard in Kemah for some repair/maintenance work on the 250WB. Specifically, minor fiberglass repair, adjust steering wheel,replace centerboard line and may be bottom job.
Who should I go to?
South Texas Yacht Services. OJsMarine at Seabrook shipyard. CRP Marine at Clear Lake Marine Center.
I've used South Texas but only for quick hauls. Never had to use them for anything more.
The PO had them do a bottom job a few months before I bought the boat and they did a good job (I've owned the boat for over 5 years and have never done a bottom job). Then again, that might be why I can't get over 5.3 knots!
They stay busy and right now they have about 30 boats on the hard in various phases of bottom jobs, repairs, etc...
A friend of mine uses Pier 77 in Galveston. He said they did great work and were reasonable. [url="http://www.pier77texas.com/"]PIER 77[/url]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Salvation</i> <br />I can't give you any good advice. Since I keep my boat in my own boathouse in a sling lift in the backyard I do all my own repairs right there. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Must be nice!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.