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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
well,here we go again. the genoa halyard is stuck on top of the mast after working on it last fall and missing out on a lot of sailing time. is there a better solution to the halyard system up there? I am thinking about adding a good quality block for the jib / genoa - next to the spinnaker block. also does anyone know the length of the geonoa halyard ...to the cockpit? 70 feet or so? and...the boat is for sale!
We just installed a 75' halyard for our tall rig main - adequate . . . but you'll need slightly longer for the foresail. We'll go 80' when the time comes. You can always shorten it . . .
We also went to ball bearing sheaves from CD. Nice inprovement.
Tall rig mast 30', forestay 31', base of mast to cockpit 10', cushion 4', equals 75' - should be sufficient. Change out the sheaves. Line is important. avoid Sta-SetX, good line and low stretch but too stiff. Do an ebay search for XLE line.
Dropping a mast and replacing the sheaves at the mast head is trivial. The masthead system is flawless and does not need to be re-engineered. Sorry you didn't get it fixed last time.
You didn't say.. is your halyard wire-to-rope or all rope? If it is stuck at the top of the mast, I'm guessing the former, and it is the wire that came off the sheave and got jammed up there. Happened to me with the main halyard. If that is the case, I urge you to get the sheave replacement kit from CD, buy all rope halyards, drop the mast and change out the sheaves and halyards. You won't regret the change.
I'll second the jammed wire diagnosis. All-rope solves that and has other advantages, but needs new, wider sheaves. Your original sheaves are likely sun-damaged anyway. Also, assuming you have external halyards (pre-'89 I think), there should be an aluminum plate between the adjacent sheaves, to prevent "jumping" and fill some of the space.
(It would help to see your year, rig and keel with your questions--you can automate that by putting them in the Signature in your Profile.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />I have 1/4 on the main and 5/16 on the jib, and it is surprising how much less uncomfortable the 5/16 is. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I use 5/16 for jib and Spinnaker halyards, and 3/8 for the main. The 3/8 makes it a LOT easier on my old hands. I used to also use 3/8 on the spinnaker halyard, but I found the exit and fairlead blocks were skinning the cover over time, so went back to the 5/16 on the spinnaker. I notice the difference in hauling on the 5/16 vs 3/8, but its not a huge difference. I agree the 5/16 is a really good size, and anything smaller is just too hard on the hands IMHO.....
I just looked up the bills for the halyards I bought a few years ago. I bought 78' for both, jib led aft to the cockpit, main cleated at the mast intending to lead aft. I have about a 3-4' tail on the jib halyard with the shackle secured at the bow pulpit.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.