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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Catalina 25 Port Light Leaks
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BillB
Deckhand

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USA
1 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/13/2006 :  08:15:22  Show Profile
I have several port lights that are leaking and need to be resealed and rebedded. Does anyone have any instructions, diagrams or tips for helping me do the job?

mmac
Navigator

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USA
167 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2006 :  11:06:38  Show Profile
Bill,

Welcome! This question gets asked at least once or twice a year. If you click on search up at the top. You'll be able to get lots of ideas about stopping those leaks.

I ran a bead of silicone around the outside frames all my ports and stopped my leaks. But it's messy stuff and I consider it temporary. A more permanent soultion would be to use 3M 4200-don't use 5200, you'll never get those windows out.

Mike in Sunny San Diego
Mara #1372 '79 fk sr SD/MB Fleet 7.
"All I ask is for a tall ship and a star to steer her by."

Edited by - mmac on 05/13/2006 11:08:16
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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/13/2006 :  11:45:33  Show Profile
Hey Bill, my portlights leak like sives (sp). I was going to do the rebed thing, but then ran across an article about how to make your own modern smoked Lexan port light in the current issue of Good Old Boat. It think it will take me the same amount of time to make the new ones. It is worth the price of the mag to see if it is right for you. Cheers.

Dennis
No Boat
S.E. Michigan
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Paul
1st Mate

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57 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2006 :  10:09:34  Show Profile
The next issue of Good Old Book included a letter to the editor, making an interesting point about surface-mounted port lights. Any flex at all in the cabin top will travel to the port openings, causing the Lexan, or whatever you use, to eventually crack at the screw holes. The original frames give the plastic room to float within the range of normal twisting, flexing, or compression.

It's just one guy's opinion, but it made a lot of sense to me.
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djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2006 :  10:33:18  Show Profile
Hi Paul, that is covered in the how to article. The portlight holes in the lexan must be bigger than the screws so there is room to move. If it is locked down tight, they will crack. Cheers.

Dennis
No Boat
S.E. Michigan
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Happy D
Admiral

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913 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2006 :  18:42:06  Show Profile  Visit Happy D's Homepage
I am in the process of researching all I can about plastic windows. The only conclusion I have come to so far is that Lexan (polycarbonate sheet) is not the correct material. The polycarbonate sheet will craze in the sunlight. Also, polycarbonate sheet does not come tinted very dark. It only comes tinted about the shade of a car window. I know this because I ordered a big sheet of it and it is the wrong color for what Iím looking for. Big BUís down the scupper. If you would like to install polycarbonate tinted windows in your aluminum frames, this might work. Drop me an email.
I am still researching what adhesive to use or if I should use gaskets like the GOB article. If gaskets, what material exactly? I am deep in reading and thinking about all of this. I have received samples of all kinds of materials.
I am honestly thinking about mounting the plastic material on the surface of the cabin sides using several different methods. A different method for each window and see which works the best over time and why. Sort of a research project boat.
My desire is to mount the acrylic with adhesive only. This would yield a clean look and no holes for leaks. But in doing that, it would probably be a good idea to bend the acrylic to match the curve of the sides. Still researching that. It will be a fun project anyway.

1977 SK/SR Dinette Hull #29
1977 Chrysler Pirateer
1965 Chris Craft Cutalss
1985 Rinker V190

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7576 Posts

Response Posted - 05/15/2006 :  19:29:40  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Happy D

I am in the process of researching all I can about plastic windows. The only conclusion I have come to so far is that Lexan (polycarbonate sheet) is not the correct material. The polycarbonate sheet will craze in the sunlight...


One of the windows on my boat came to me with what I assume to be a Lexan replacement window. Not only was it severaly crazed, it also had a brown tint to it rather than the smoked glass of the other windows.

I've since replaced it with a tempered piece of glass that matches the original tint exactly.

Don Lucier

North Star SR/FK
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Justin
Admiral

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502 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2006 :  13:34:10  Show Profile  Visit Justin's Homepage
I think my leaks were coming in from between the glass and the aluminum channel. What I did the weekend before last is pull out the old, dry rotted piece of rubber that was there, cleaned it, masked off the aluminum, then applied Life Caulk (polysulfide) along the entire perimeter of the glass and aluminum frame. I bought a handy tool that makes corners smooth when caulking and it did a nice job. So far I have only completed one window, so I don't know for sure if the leak stopped since the others still leak, but it does seem like it'll do the job for now. Here is a photo showing the edge:

With the following windows I may also mask off the glass, about 1/4" in to make sure I get a nice clean edge on the glass as well.

Someday I may get around to buying the new rubber seals from Catalina Direct, but I could use the money on many other projects at this time. Hopefully after caulking all the windows with this method, it will stop those leaks.

Justin
Previous Owner of Sapphire Breeze - 1982 Catalina 25 SK/SR
My sail blog site: http://www.sailblogs.com/member/justinc25
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