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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Hatch Boards - Update

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T O P I C R E V I E W
GaryB	Posted - 06/10/2019 : 15:52:53 Anyone know how thick the hatch boards are supposed to be? I checked Catalina Direct and could not find that info.
14 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
GaryB	Posted - 06/23/2019 : 18:01:27 Derek you were right, they are darker after just the first coat. I wanted them to look similar to the wet picture above but it's quite a bit darker. Will probably be about as dark as the remaining good areas in the first picture above. I used the Cetol Marine Natural Teak and now I'm wishing I had gone with the regular or even the light version. Still look much better than before I started!
Derek Crawford	Posted - 06/23/2019 : 08:45:28 GaryB, it will look a little darker after the Cetol. I always used a foam brush to apply, LIGHTLY sanded between coats and applied 3 coats of regular Cetol and then one of the semi-gloss (designed to protect the coats underneath)
GaryB	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 16:45:29 quote: Originally posted by GaryB Anyone know how thick the hatch boards are supposed to be? I checked Catalina Direct and could not find that info. Here's what I started with. Start Sanded - DO I have to get every bit of the grey off? Hard to see but there's very tiny thin lines that show grey. Thinking they made add "character"? Sanded After wiping down with wet rag to remove sawdust. Is this similar to what it will look like after applying Cetol Marine Teak? This is the correct picture... Wiped Down with Wet Rag
GaryB	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 08:30:25 Back to the hatchboards... Is it best to use a regular brush or a foam brush to apply the Cetol? Do I lightly sand between coats? How many coats does it usually take when bringing the boards back from bare wood?
GaryB	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 08:24:42 quote: Originally posted by Derek Crawford GaryB, when I removed my teak handrails each time they straightened out and it was a pita to get the curve back while re-attaching. The best way I found was to screw in one end first (mine did not have bolts) and then work my way forward, one screw at a time. That's what I'm afraid of! My boat has both bolts and screws if I'm not mistaken. Thank you Derek!
Derek Crawford	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 08:19:55 GaryB, when I removed my teak handrails each time they straightened out and it was a pita to get the curve back while re-attaching. The best way I found was to screw in one end first (mine did not have bolts) and then work my way forward, one screw at a time.
GaryB	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 08:06:18 Thanks Voyager! Appreciate the info.
Voyager	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 06:47:26 One thing I did with the bolts was check to see whether they�d spin in their place. Mostly they�re stuck securely in place but you might get one that spins when you put the wrench on the nut to tighten it. If so, a little crazy glue near the base of the bolt should hold it. If that still doesn�t do it, you have a few other things you can try before having to dig out the wooden plug on the top of the rail.
GaryB	Posted - 06/22/2019 : 06:39:15 quote: Originally posted by Leon Sisson Re: "Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed? Mine straighten slightly, but the curve is still there. Thank you Leon! Any suggestions on how to re-install them? Start at one end? Start in the middle and work out to the ends?
Leon Sisson	Posted - 06/21/2019 : 20:24:04 Re: "Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed? Mine straighten slightly, but the curve is still there.
GaryB	Posted - 06/21/2019 : 17:49:22 Another question, if I remove the handrails on top of the cabin will they maintain the slight curve or will they straighten back out once the bolts/screws are removed?
Voyager	Posted - 06/11/2019 : 15:57:18 My pleasure, glad I could help. I also have a plywood blank that came with Passage that has a plastic louver and mesh screen in the middle to aid in air flow. I believe it was made by Dave S+!nkp0++er or the PO. I too use it while refinishing the crib boards.
GaryB	Posted - 06/11/2019 : 15:47:58 Thanks for the information Bruce! I just need something for a few days while I refinish my originals. I bought a 4' X 4' section of 3/4" plywood as it was the closest thing I could find and cut it to match a template I had made last Saturday. I thought I'd cut the bottom angle correctly but when I attempted to fit it this morning the cut was at the wrong angle. I brought it back home and will re-cut before this weekend. Otherwise it fit very nicely. BTW... the top is at an angle as well so the hatch will slide over it.
Voyager	Posted - 06/10/2019 : 18:19:43 For my 1985 C25, the crib boards are just shy of 1� thick. They could�ve started out at 1� in the past, but with each successive refinishing step they might�ve been slightly trimmed down from the original thickness. The slot that they fit into is approximately 1-1/8� wide so you�ve got a bit of leeway there. Now if you�re thinking about purchasing new teak or mahogany boards and want to replace the crib boards, you should know the following: 1. The bottom board is tapered at the bottom on approximately a 20�/70� angle to sit flat on the �bridge� or threshold of the companionway. 2. The boards overlap with an step or a half-lap where the outer piece lies over to top (from the outside) of the bottom to keep the rain out. 3. The boards themselves are made of four separate pieces of wood apiece that are mitered together. There are two �runners� on the edges and two slats in the middle that are not specifically joined together except between each slat and its corresponding edge runner. That�s a tongue and groove joint. 4. The top of the top board is cut at a 20�/70� angle so that it fits under the cabintop slider. 5. The nominal thickness is 1.0� minus. If you purchase your own wood make sure the finished thickness is about an inch. One-By lumber is notoriously thinner than 1� because raw boards my be 1� while sanded or finished one-by can be 7/8� thickness. Good luck with your project.

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.