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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Replacing Motor Mount

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[quote][i]Originally posted by Steve Milby[/i]
[br]You're right. There are pros and cons. One pro is that it's really difficult to lift a 108 lb motor onto the mount, probably while climbing up 3-4 steps of a ladder. It's probably easier to do it at home where you can ask your neighbor or a relative to help.

Some people are concerned about the weight damaging the transom.  The motor should be tilted when towed, because it's better balanced.  The power head is on one side of the mount and the shaft and prop are on the other.  You should, of course, avoid hitting the kind of potholes, railroad tracks and other bumps that rattle your teeth.

Years ago, I skipped my nearly new motor down the highway at 55 mph. From that experience I learned to use a safety chain or rope on the motor. Also, check the motor's mounting screws just before you tow to be sure it hasn't loosened up.

If I was towing 1000 miles, I might pay someone a few bucks at my destination to help me mount it. For a short trip, I'd be much more inclined to leave it mounted and keep my speed down.
[/quote]

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T O P I C R E V I E W
Allmanjoy	Posted - 04/09/2020 : 09:09:39 I'm replacing my motor mount with a more robust one that can handle the heavier 4 stroke. I want to use two of the original holes but the old mount had larger diameter screws, ( which I prefer to use) and the new mount has square holes for the lock bolts. Should I drill 4 new holes for the provided screws or would you use the original screws to avoid more drilling? Also never did hull work, so what's the best way to fill the old holes? any good videos?
21 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
islander	Posted - 05/06/2020 : 05:51:37 Looks good. Check the whole rig after a few miles, wheel bearings, straps,tires etc. Have a safe trip.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 05/05/2020 : 17:10:10 I think we�re good.
islander	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 17:13:03 Fully understand. Sometimes we forget that it's easy for us to spend other people's money and a boat will eat it up as fast as you feed it.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 16:07:58 quote: Originally posted by islander quote: I've successfully installed the old one spring motor mount with the backing plates Thought you got a new one. No, I wish. The difference is only in the lifting ease hence the extra springs. I will upgrade the mount next year, but to de-stress the transom I purchased the backing plates.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 16:02:42 quote: Originally posted by islander You could use a ratchet strap around the mount or motor that goes up around a cleat to take some of the load off. That's what I'll do for sure.
islander	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 10:27:03 quote: I've successfully installed the old one spring motor mount with the backing plates Thought you got a new one.
Steve Milby	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 05:45:38 The conundrum here is whether a short lever arm, with all the weight on one side of the fulcrum, puts more torque on the fulcrum than a longer lever arm, with the heavier part of the weight balanced on the opposite side of the fulcrum. In either case, the total amount of weight on the transom is the same. The question is whether all the weight on a short lever arm creates more torque than a longer lever arm that is substantially counterbalanced. Live and learn, eh? It appears that most authorities agree with Keats that an outboard motor should be carried with the engine straight up and down. The good news is that, in your case, it probably doesn't matter, because, as I recall, you reinforced your transom when you upgraded the motor mount. I carried my engine tilted up on long and short trips alike for many years with an un-reinforced transom and without harm, so your reinforced transom should certainly be up to the task. In any event, you're almost always best to follow the weight of the recognized authorities.
islander	Posted - 05/04/2020 : 05:34:25 You could use a ratchet strap around the mount or motor that goes up around a cleat to take some of the load off.
keats	Posted - 05/03/2020 : 22:53:34 Follow your instincts Jay but, if you do it, keep the motor as straight up and down as possible and as low as possible while maintaining road clearance. Tilting the motor will greatly increase stress on the transom.
Steve Milby	Posted - 05/03/2020 : 17:58:22 You're right. There are pros and cons. One pro is that it's really difficult to lift a 108 lb motor onto the mount, probably while climbing up 3-4 steps of a ladder. It's probably easier to do it at home where you can ask your neighbor or a relative to help. Some people are concerned about the weight damaging the transom. The motor should be tilted when towed, because it's better balanced. The power head is on one side of the mount and the shaft and prop are on the other. You should, of course, avoid hitting the kind of potholes, railroad tracks and other bumps that rattle your teeth. Years ago, I skipped my nearly new motor down the highway at 55 mph. From that experience I learned to use a safety chain or rope on the motor. Also, check the motor's mounting screws just before you tow to be sure it hasn't loosened up. If I was towing 1000 miles, I might pay someone a few bucks at my destination to help me mount it. For a short trip, I'd be much more inclined to leave it mounted and keep my speed down.
keats	Posted - 05/03/2020 : 17:23:21 I don't think there are any advantages to trailering with the motor mounted Jay. It's just not a good idea.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 05/03/2020 : 17:10:29 Question, I've successfully installed the old one spring motor mount with the backing plates, refinished the old wood mount and everything looks great. I launch tomorrow and have an hour drive to the marina. Should I trailer with the 4 stroke 108lbs. motor attached or lay it down in the pick up and attach it when I get there. I see pros and cons to both. I feel like it would put unnecessary stress on the transom.
bigelowp	Posted - 04/12/2020 : 05:06:41 I too replaced my original 2? spring mount with a Garhauer 4 spring from CD. In my case (1980 boat) the holes were the same so all I needed to do was add to the backer plate as Dave has described already. It was a very easy swap out! And the 4 spring is easy to handle with my @95 lb Tohatsu 9.8 outboard.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 04/11/2020 : 19:06:22 Thanks again, very helpful.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 04/11/2020 : 07:51:26 The number of springs depends on the motor weight. There have been discussions here about 4-spring Garhauers being too hard to get down far enough to latch, and being difficult to unlatch because of the excessive spring pressure. I also recall someone describing a way to eliminate one spring--carefully... Another advantage of CD's Garhauer is it has (or had) more vertical travel than just about anything else on the market--good getting propellers deep and XL shafts out of the water.
dmpilc	Posted - 04/10/2020 : 14:01:01 I had the single spring mount also, from the prior owner, with a pully system to help raise a 9.9 ob. The CD 4 spring is a good choice, the 3 spring might work as well. The holes might line up. If the o/b is 100 lbs or more, go with the 4 spring. sorry Dave, I thought you were referring to the outside starboard plate because in the pictures I remember seeing, it had rounded corners. All 4 holes on mine were above the inside shelf, so I had a single 1/4" backing plate for all 4 holes. The o/b I bought to replace the old motor was the Nissan brand (also Tohatsu/Mercury) 9.8hp, 25in shaft, elec start. Sweet motor!
islander	Posted - 04/10/2020 : 12:18:32 Good choice, The mounts from CD were made for these boats.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 04/10/2020 : 12:10:51 I've decided to return the aftermarket motor mount and go with the CD 4 spring after the Covid 19 passes. I'll make due with my one spring for now. I purchased the backing plates from CD for more strength in the time being. Thanks for the assistance, it was very helpful.
Allmanjoy	Posted - 04/10/2020 : 08:00:28 Its a 1985 C25 swing Keel. The mount was the original I believe. One single spring. Its for a suzuki 9.9hp outboard. Negative on CD handbook, but I have the DVD from CD
Stinkpotter	Posted - 04/09/2020 : 22:35:34 quote: Originally posted by dmpilc ...I didn't do it but one member recommended rounding the corners on the outside starboard to reduce possibility of splitting and to add strength. Inside--the corners and vertical edges, to reduce point-pressure against the slightly concave surface. Some caulk under the board also helps spread the load. I used Starboard for an inside backer only for the top two bolts (above the shelf), which pull under forward power. I also made an outside plate for the bracket. If you don't chose to make an outside plate that covers the holes, you can fill them with Marine Tex epoxy putty, which comes in white, and then for a nicer finish, use a little gelcoat patch in a tube and sand it smooth. If you make a plate that will cover the holes, you can fill them with whatever caulk you have, and also make a bead close to the the outer edges of the plate.
dmpilc	Posted - 04/09/2020 : 15:25:17 Several things will help us respond. What year is your boat? What mount is on there now? Do you have the CD handbook? I went through this with our 84 boat. I ended up buying both 1/4" starboard and 1/2" starboard to reinforce the transom, 1/" piece outside and 1/4" piece inside. I was able to use 2 of the existing holes and had to drill two new ones and fill in the 2 old ones. I didn't do it but one member recommended rounding the corners on the outside starboard to reduce possibility of splitting and to add strength. There should be several posts in the archives on this topic. If you use the additional mounting and backing platers, be sure to get longer bolts.

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.