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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Raymarine autohelm 1000
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eagleeyepandv
1st Mate

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USA
28 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/07/2021 :  12:08:50  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Does anyone have or know where I can find the schematic for a Raymarine Autohelm 1000 (not St1000)? I contacted Raymarine but have not heard from them. If anyone is selling an autopilot, I may be interested.

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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4821 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2021 :  13:06:38  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dan, Is this what you need?

Autohelm1000

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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eagleeyepandv
1st Mate

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28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2021 :  18:10:27  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Bruce,
Thank you for providing this. Our friends at Raymarine also shared this document. Unfortunately, this is not what I need. Specifically, the unit got water in it and rusted out several pins on two of the momentary push-button switches (those used to adjust direction & standby) that are soldered onto one of the two printed circuit boards. The schematic will help me identify the switches.
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Voyager
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4821 Posts

Response Posted - 06/09/2021 :  05:17:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oh, I see. And thereís no markings on the momentary switches to tell you whether they are single pole, double pole, single throw, double throw or normally on or normally off. Can you desolder the switches from the circuit to destructively inspect the switches and just replace like with like?

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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eagleeyepandv
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Response Posted - 06/09/2021 :  10:20:28  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Two of the six fell off. Based on those still attached to the PCB, they're all likely 3-pin. That's about all I've got to go on, except the two that are off the board have the number 26 and what looks like a stylized "dr" printed on the bottom of them. Neither the 26 nor the "dr" have yielded anything so far. Since the momentary actuator part of said switches seem to be functional (I'll verify with a meter), if all else fails, I may attempt to solder leads back onto the switches and reinstall. With any luck it may just work.
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Voyager
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4821 Posts

Response Posted - 06/10/2021 :  20:31:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Itís too bad that itís so old that nobody here has one. I would suggest you ask over on Cruisers Forum, however being cruisers they probably wouldnít use an electric self steering control.
So the remaining switches are all single pole - double throw, momentary contact switches? If the missing switches had only 3 contacts, then you may be onto something. The engineer laying out the PCB probably oriented all the switches consistently in the same direction.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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1587 Posts

Response Posted - 06/11/2021 :  07:54:29  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Check Ebay -- sometime you can find older marine electronics

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
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eagleeyepandv
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28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2021 :  03:55:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce, you are correct about the switch positioning. If you hold the board in portrait position, there are two columns of three switches. Switches in the first column share the same orientation and those in the second column are turned 180į in relation to those in the first column. Customer support at Raymarine tried to be helpful, but I knew it ran its course when they referred me to a local dealer who told me they would ship the unit off to Raymarine to be repaired, if they could repair it. It appears my options are down to attempting to solder new leads onto the old switches or scrapping the unit and buying a new one. Iím going to try the former. Iíll let you know how that goes.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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4821 Posts

Response Posted - 06/12/2021 :  09:16:05  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You may have two approaches you can take.

1. Use what you have:
If you can find some nice clean 22ga solid wire and pre-tin it, itíll solder nicely into the holes in the circuit board. For the switches, itís best to use an emery board as a sander to clean whatever contacts you can connect to. Flat areas are better than edges of metal, but an edge will also work. You want to see shiny metal and put a little rosin on it. Then solder the other end of the 22ga solid wire to it. You can use stranded wire, but itís harder to get it into the circuit board holes.
Once you solder in the wires, itís good to coat them with a waterproof coating like shellac or wax to prevent subsequent corrosion.
2. Look on Mouser or Digikey for parts. The important factors are size, pin out and pin spacing, and spdt or dpdt. Older PCBs used through-holes rather than the newer surface mount types, so look for a through-hole type.
If you can ohm out the existing switches, that will give you some clues about pinout and whether they are single pole or double pole.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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eagleeyepandv
1st Mate

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28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2021 :  04:20:30  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the reference to Mouser and Digikey. My plan is to try to reuse the existing switches. If I can successfully attach new pins to them (i.e., pass the continuity test), then I'll proceed with mounting them to the board. I was wondering about some of the attachment points since there is very little metal left on the switches, but your suggestion to use some extra rosin should help. Assuming all this works, I will definitely coat with wax or shellac.
Thanks for all your help.
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eagleeyepandv
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28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2021 :  14:21:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've thrown in the towel with my unit because there isn't enough metal to get a connection for the switches, too corroded. Thank you for your help along the way. It's a shame to throw away an otherwise usable device.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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4821 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2021 :  19:25:17  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Would something like this fit?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/95C06C3RAT
Or something like this?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/TL1105HF100Q

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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eagleeyepandv
1st Mate

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28 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2021 :  03:16:57  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Unfortunately, your links don't take me to a page showing a particular component.
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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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1838 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2021 :  10:47:56  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dan, I sent you email via this site regarding your autopilot.

ó Leon Sisson
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Kim Luckner
1st Mate

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94 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2021 :  11:53:02  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
https://www.virtualware.nl/wp-content/uploads/Schematics-Autohelm-1000-1.pdf

Seeadler
'79 C25 SR/FK #1432
Mentor Lagoons
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4190 Posts

Response Posted - 06/18/2021 :  12:05:04  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by eagleeyepandv

Unfortunately, your links don't take me to a page showing a particular component.



Try these links:

Grayhill 95C06C3RAT

E-Switch TL1105HF100Q


Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 06/18/2021 12:07:25
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4821 Posts

Response Posted - 08/17/2021 :  21:08:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So a friend had one that got wet with salt water. Afterwards it stopped working. He opened it, rinsed it with fresh water, then put it into a bag of rice to dry out. Now itís working again. Amazing!
Meanwhile we looked around for a replacement. Seemed several stores, other than West Marine, offered it for around $400.
Iím not sure that it comes with all the bells and whistles but it seems like a fine unit.
My buddy created what he calls the tillerpilot ďcondomĒ. I havenít seen it yet but can only imagine what heís dreamed up for this, but he rarely disappoints when it comes to over the top inventions.
Can hardly wait to see it!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain ó Milford, CT
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