Association Forum - Saran Wrap portlights

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Saran Wrap portlights

New Topic

Reply to Topic

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
5231 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/02/2022 : 08:45:00

Typical situation with Catalina portlights is that the seals have dried out and shrunk and they leak - not enough to flood you out, but enough to be annoying - especially during downpours.

Has anybody tried using a clear plastic wrap or tinted plastic over their portlights to prevent water intrusion? Might be a way to vacuum the material to the glass and frame�

I�ve also seen clear plexiglass used with 3M super tape as a cover, but that�s a different approach..

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2022 : 12:34:42

Where do those frame type windows leak from? Is it the joint between the window and frame or the frame to boat?

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2022 : 14:10:33

My windows started to leak 3-4 years after I bought the boat new.

The exact source of the leaks could be the caulk that seals the aluminum frame to the opening. It also could be the failure of the rubber gasket to seal around the surface of the plexiglass. Some people have replaced the rubber gasket and re-caulked the windows and reported that they stopped the leaks. Some reported that the leaks nevertheless came back after awhile. It might be that the rubber gasket hardens and loses it's seal from UV exposure. I noticed that the aluminum frame collects any water that gets past the gasket. The interior frame is lower than the exterior frame, so, when rainwater fills the bottom part of the frame, it will spill over inside the boat. At one time I considered drilling small holes in the bottom of the outer frame, to drain any water to the outside that accumulated in the frame.

My ultimate remedy was to put a small tarp over the coach roof and windows when I left the boat. If you really want a long term remedy, replacing the windows with frameless windows would probably be the best remedy.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2022 : 14:38:37

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/02/2022 14:42:22

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2022 : 19:02:32

Responding in order to my esteemed colleagues:
� Scott - I have tried using polysulfide caulk around the top and bottom of the external aluminum frames, where it�s attached to the cabin fiberglass. This did not prevent any leaks during the next rainstorm. Apparently, the rubber gasket between the aluminum frame and the glass window is leaking. I looked at the gasket yesterday and wondered whether I could trim it back and fill the gap with a thin bead of polysulfide caulk.

� Steve - I�m thinking that the rubber seal between the aluminum frame and glass is the cause of the leaks on my boat. YMMV. If I recaulk the gasket, and if the leak stops for awhile, then I�d reseal it every year.

� Dave - are you suggesting that I simply drip some of the Captain Trolley�s in the groove between the rubber strip and the glass? Hmmm�

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/02/2022 : 22:09:30

quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

� Dave - are you suggesting that I simply drip some of the Captain Trolley�s in the groove between the rubber strip and the glass? Hmmm�

...and/or between the frame and the fiberglass (top and sides). Try one, and if that doesn't do it, try the other.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

islander
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2022 : 04:12:48

Captain Tolley's might be worth a try, Nothing to lose. Keep in mind that its only good for hairline very fine cracks and has the consistency of water so would vertical surfaces be a challenge? Maybe multiple coats? I don't think its made to fill gaps.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 05/03/2022 05:12:12

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2022 : 05:39:27

It�s definitely worth a try. It might seal a good part of the problem.

While a different formulation, superglue comes in both a liquid and a gel. The liquid will get into all the cracks it can while the gel stays pretty much where you put it. My son mixes liquid superglue with baking soda to form a kind of cement. I wonder whether using a low concentration of baking soda would still run pretty well, but might clog up the gaps a little better?

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2022 : 10:11:26

I recall Capt. Tolley's directions suggesting multiple applications. You don't need to fill the whole gap--you just want to block the passage of water, possibly somewhere down inside the frame. Capt. Tolley's might find its way to wherever that is, whether in one shot or three. (The first shot might run out a little inside--at least that's sign that it's found the source.)

I should add that I think the frameless windows sealed to the outside of the openings are probably the best real solution--simpler is better! That should eliminate any fears of water running between the outer and inner cabin moldings, into the core and/or the bilge. You might never be sure you've completely sealed the framed windows, or know if you haven't.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/03/2022 12:49:38

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 05/03/2022 : 14:50:41

I�ve seen some YouTube installations of frameless windows that were directly attached to the fiberglass cabin. The original windows were removed and the openings were squared up (parallelograms actually). A wooden frame was installed on the inside of the opening. They cut plexiglass acrylic windows to match the shape with a 3/4� overlap. They used 3M super-stick double-sided tape to attach the windows � you only get 1 shot at that. Next step was to apply polysulfide all around the plexiglass.

To me this seemed like a built-in leak problem. The tape can never really be completely sealed, and eventually even it will fail. Seemed like they globbed on too much caulk.

I plan to try the following:
1. Cut into the rubber seal between the glass and the frame to remove as much gasket as I can.
2. Use Capt Trolley�s in several steps. Both around the outside of the frames, and between the frames and the glass.
3. Using the conical applicator nozzle of the polysulfide tube, apply a very thin bead in between the glass and the frame. Let the bead skin over, then with a wet finger, flatten the bead into the groove. I believe that�s where most of the water comes from.
4. Using the polysulfide, apply another bead on top of the frame between the cabin and the frame. This is probably less effective, but couldn�t hurt.

Fingers crossed!

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 05/03/2022 14:56:00

islander
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2022 : 05:34:57

Something similar to what this girl did. Why not nothing to lose.
https://youtu.be/sWVQDWm069A

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5231 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2022 : 10:59:15

Nice video. I was not surprised when she cut out the gasket material with her razor knife � I fully expected that.

But then she masked the windows off with blue tape � I was not expecting that. Since she used silicone caulk, it was a good thing that she did use masking tape. It prevented a lot of clean-up afterwards.

I will probably do the same with polysulfide caulk since it generally never fully hardens, and is not as problematic as silicone to remove later on.

I think I will wear some surgical gloves however � just to keep my fingernails intact.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

islander
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2022 : 13:26:56

quote:
But then she masked the windows off with blue tape � I was not expecting that

Really...I would also mask off the aluminum frame if it were me. Pull the tape and you end up with nice crisp straight lines and looks more profesional and no mess.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Edited by - islander on 05/04/2022 13:28:55

Volksaholic
1st Mate

Members Avatar

55 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2022 : 10:36:41

I apologize; I'm at work and started reading what everyone has posted but decided I should be redirecting my attention to the man who signs my paycheck, so I may be repeating something. Despite the paycheck, I'm in the process of resealing due to a leaky window and wanted to do a brain dump of what I've seen.

The only window that I saw leaking was the Port trapezoidal window but it was a pretty significant drip. The boat is new to me as of last fall and it had been sitting on the trailer without maintenance for, I think, the last 5 years or so due to the previous owner being ill. No way of knowing exactly how long it was leaking.

I determined last fall that it was leaking between the frame and cabin, and confirmed that by putting PVC tape over the top and ends of the frame but not trying to seal the frame to glass. That stopped the leaking. When I pulled the window I could see where there was dirt at one point at the top of the frame where the water was getting past what looks like a butyl sealant. Another observation is that when it was last sealed it was allowed to rest on the bottom of the cutout in the fiberglass, which means there was about 3/8"-1/2" of overlap between the frame lip and cabin on the bottom and only about 1/8" at the top. In fact there was probably 1/4" of butyl sealant that had been applied to the frame that was completely uncompressed at the top... it was doing nothing. When I reinstall it I intend to shim it so it's centered in the cut-out and make sure I've got sealant on the entire frame to fiberglass overlap.

At some point it looks to me as if a previous owner cut away the original rubber/vinyl glass seal and silicone sealed it. They did a nice job and it seemed to seal up pretty well. I'm replacing the glass seal with the Catalina Direct stuff so I'll see how that works. Some of the silicone was starting to break down and I think I'm seeing some signs of leakage beginning, but I wasn't seeing enough to observe any water intrusion into the boat. WRT the silicone sealer between the glass and frame, I don't know how long ago that repair was done but it appears to me that if it's cleaned up well that's probably a perfect alternative to tearing out the window and replacing the glass seal.

I noticed the comment about using masking tape to minimize the silicone cleanup... good move that I had to learn the hard way after cleaning up the first window. Luckily it was one of the smallest ones, but I'm taping the glass and frame from here on out.

That's pretty much all I know right now. I've resealed two of the Port side windows... the easier ones... and I'm getting ready to do the trapezoidal one today. With luck I'll get them installed tomorrow or Saturday and pull the Starboard ones to do them. They're not leaking but if I have to do one I'm assuming they're all ready to go. I may not give the Port ones a good soak test until next week because I think I'll want to let the sealant seat for a few days. This is my first rodeo with sealing the deck and cabin on a larger boat (plenty of experience sealing Laster and Finn hulls) and I've got chainplates and other fittings that need to be resealed as well. From talking to the previous owner's widow, he was pretty meticulous about rebedding and sealing hardware every spring so what I'm seeing I assume is the result of 5 years or so of inattention. Not bad for a 41 year old boat... my hat's off to him for his maintenance.

Paul
1981 Catalina 25 TR/FK
Soon to be named either Fiddler's Dream or Fool's Errand depending on what it takes to get her into shape

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2022 : 11:53:43

Acrylic and similar window materials expand and contract with temperature changes. Therefore, any materials you use to seal them shouldn't be inflexible or restrict that movement.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Topic

New Topic

Reply to Topic

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.