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Off-season projects

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T O P I C R E V I E W
Voyager	Posted - 11/09/2021 : 17:30:33 Last weekend my wife and I sailed Passage upriver to its Winter storage marina. Passage was hauled and put up on jackstands in the rear part of the yard. There are between 12 and 16 sailors among us most years, the rest are power. I removed sails and drained the engine fuel and oil. I removed tiller and rudder to prevent freezing. This year I plan to completely empty the storage areas, clean everything out with a cleaner like fantastic or windex, and sort out all the junk. We have an ample dumpster at the marina. Here are the projects I have listed for this season: 1. Portlights - I�m probably going with the CD kit to rebuild the fixed windows. The openable windows aren�t leaking so I�ll leave well enough alone with these. 2. Engine - it�s finally time to replace it. A Tohatsu with an electric start and alternator seems like a best buy� 3. Mast top - it�s time to check the rigging, the windvane, the VHF antenna and fix the anchor light (AGAIN!). That�s my top 3. I�m sure more items will pop up throughout the season, but that�s enough for now. How about you all?
25 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
GaryB	Posted - 06/12/2023 : 19:43:21 quote: Originally posted by hlprmnky I got the Lunasea LLB-453M-01-K5 full kit, that comes with a 15� RGB LED strip, an IR remote, a controller/IR receiver, and a bit of three-strand 12V wire (why three-strand? No idea). It was slightly discounted at my local chandlery and seemed like a good way to go from zero to Party Boat. As for how easy to install, that remains to be seen! The strip itself is quite sturdy and heavyweight; I bought some fancy double-sided tape from Amazon on the theory that support along the entire strip would be good but it�s only really working on straight runs, so I will probably return the tape and get a grip of 3M Command strips to secure the LED strip at various points. The biggest challenge is that the IR receiver/controller has a 12V barrel plug but there�s no matching end to attach to the wires. I�m going to contact the manufacturer tomorrow and see what the deal is there; I am entirely prepared to believe that my local chandlery got the unit returned and restocked it without knowing that there was a critical bit missing, but maybe I�m supposed to source my own barrel plug of unknown diameter and polarity (nothing like that is documented on the �install instructions�), which would make me feel much less good about spending almost a hundred bucks for Party Boat status. Finally, 15� of LED strip is not _quite_ enough to reach all the way from the galley, around the front of the saloon, back to the quarter berth. I got a second reel of just the LED lights and each one has a connector on either end. I plan to run that back the rest of the way down the starboard side to at least the quarter berth. The receiver says that it�s not recommended to drive more than 5m of LED but I don�t mind trying it out just to see what happens. Once I have the install completed (or abandoned!) I will report back and present some photos. I really can�t recommend such an expensive toy until I�m sure it works well. Thank you for the information. I'll check it out.
hlprmnky	Posted - 06/11/2023 : 20:27:29 I got the Lunasea LLB-453M-01-K5 full kit, that comes with a 15� RGB LED strip, an IR remote, a controller/IR receiver, and a bit of three-strand 12V wire (why three-strand? No idea). It was slightly discounted at my local chandlery and seemed like a good way to go from zero to Party Boat. As for how easy to install, that remains to be seen! The strip itself is quite sturdy and heavyweight; I bought some fancy double-sided tape from Amazon on the theory that support along the entire strip would be good but it�s only really working on straight runs, so I will probably return the tape and get a grip of 3M Command strips to secure the LED strip at various points. The biggest challenge is that the IR receiver/controller has a 12V barrel plug but there�s no matching end to attach to the wires. I�m going to contact the manufacturer tomorrow and see what the deal is there; I am entirely prepared to believe that my local chandlery got the unit returned and restocked it without knowing that there was a critical bit missing, but maybe I�m supposed to source my own barrel plug of unknown diameter and polarity (nothing like that is documented on the �install instructions�), which would make me feel much less good about spending almost a hundred bucks for Party Boat status. Finally, 15� of LED strip is not _quite_ enough to reach all the way from the galley, around the front of the saloon, back to the quarter berth. I got a second reel of just the LED lights and each one has a connector on either end. I plan to run that back the rest of the way down the starboard side to at least the quarter berth. The receiver says that it�s not recommended to drive more than 5m of LED but I don�t mind trying it out just to see what happens. Once I have the install completed (or abandoned!) I will report back and present some photos. I really can�t recommend such an expensive toy until I�m sure it works well.
GaryB	Posted - 06/09/2023 : 20:09:53 quote: Originally posted by hlprmnky I ended up not getting my boat in the water at all last season, but now she is in her slip with the following items from my 2021 list completed: - Halyard sheaves and halyards replaced (also reefing line, Genoa sheets, and furling drum line) - Original DC service panel replaced with new one from CD to add some more accessory switches - Electric bilge pump installed - Tiller pilot installed (this past Sunday) - Knotmeter/log paddlewheel replaced - Interior and exterior (barring the nooks and crannies in the back of the dumpster/transom area) deep cleaned In addition, I�ve realized I don�t require a vented loop on the tank side of the head, since the tank has no outlet other than a deck pump out fitting (she�s a Great Lakes boat), the tablet mount is actually the right size and just needed different little tabs that I got off Amazon for $8 last winter, and all the additional deck hardware to add more control lines to the cockpit is unneeded at least for now, since I can set my reefing line up to work as a single-line system and then I just have the main halyard, so my two blocks/two-line organizer/two clutches is sufficient. I do still have a couple small projects I want to tackle during the season, adding some LED strip lighting in the cabin and installing the Origo alcohol cooker in the spot where the old pressurized one used to be, but right now the Puffin III is in excellent shape for the season. ` Where did you get your LED strip lights? Were they hard to install?
bigelowp	Posted - 06/09/2023 : 18:08:51 Bruce, Thanks. I agree, with DIY projects you must weigh ability with down side of a muffed up job. Last year I tried a DIY option and realized, it was way beyond my current time availability and skill level. She splashes next week and we are of to the races!
hlprmnky	Posted - 06/06/2023 : 11:27:42 I ended up not getting my boat in the water at all last season, but now she is in her slip with the following items from my 2021 list completed: - Halyard sheaves and halyards replaced (also reefing line, Genoa sheets, and furling drum line) - Original DC service panel replaced with new one from CD to add some more accessory switches - Electric bilge pump installed - Tiller pilot installed (this past Sunday) - Knotmeter/log paddlewheel replaced - Interior and exterior (barring the nooks and crannies in the back of the dumpster/transom area) deep cleaned In addition, I�ve realized I don�t require a vented loop on the tank side of the head, since the tank has no outlet other than a deck pump out fitting (she�s a Great Lakes boat), the tablet mount is actually the right size and just needed different little tabs that I got off Amazon for $8 last winter, and all the additional deck hardware to add more control lines to the cockpit is unneeded at least for now, since I can set my reefing line up to work as a single-line system and then I just have the main halyard, so my two blocks/two-line organizer/two clutches is sufficient. I do still have a couple small projects I want to tackle during the season, adding some LED strip lighting in the cabin and installing the Origo alcohol cooker in the spot where the old pressurized one used to be, but right now the Puffin III is in excellent shape for the season.
Voyager	Posted - 06/04/2023 : 06:38:42 Peter, congratulations! You seem very delighted by the job, and it�s wonderful to have a new surface on the decks. Of late I am beginning to realize that sometimes it�s wa-a-a-ay better to hire a skilled craftsman to do a specific job than try to DIY it. What they can do in a few hours� time can take me several weekends: identifying the materials, buying the materials, doing it wrong the first time, reading up on how to do it right, doing it more or less right, then cleaning up. That�s the �slow and painful� method. Picking your projects is the better part of valor�
bigelowp	Posted - 06/03/2023 : 04:50:25 An old thread, but completed a project I had hoped to have done years ago -- resurfacing the non-skid on the bow/side deck. Background, the bow deck non-skid is almost smooth and tan color no longer. Very slippery when going forward, especially picking up mooring, etc. Originally spoke to local yard to do job but they refused as moisture meter showed high moisture. I can go on of hours about what Learned about moisture in older fiberglass boat decks -- even more about what paint companies, such as Awlgrip opined. In short, not such-mucha issue. In April while walking around the boat yard I keep the boat in winter saw a truck with signage "boat painting" and found the guy. He was working on a Sabre 38, a boat that is moored summers in the same cove I am in. The owner was on board (turns out he remembered my son who was launch operator at his yacht Club) Anyway the guy raved about the boat painter -- and the work looked top notch. So he looked at my boat, gave me a quote on the spot -- which was really inexpensive (at least for where I live) and got the job. Sanded/grind off old non skid, epoxy on the deck, then sprayed Awlgrip with non-skid paint. The result is far better than I had ever hoped! Similar to when I had bottom done with barrier coat a bit costly but WOW what an improvement! So one project from 2019 complete. Now on to the 2020 list . . . .
Voyager	Posted - 01/16/2022 : 19:44:35 Oh wow, I�ve been away for awhile. Frankly, it�s still too damned cold to do anything on the boat. I don�t use a heater aboard due to dangers of CO poisoning and fires. Hoping that spring might come a little early this year. Yes, I�ve seen folks fill their core areas with balsa or other light wood or hard foam. I just finished an insulation project in my shed where I used hard pink foam boards (R-9) to keep the full blast of the cold and wind outside. I�ve got a lot of good sized pieces of scrap leftover. @peter, I might call you about your CD window kits if you still have them.
glivs	Posted - 01/02/2022 : 09:44:56 Bruce, Times change but still maybe worthwhile searching the archives if you haven�t already. At various times there has been much discussion about the issues related to rebedding the portlights. My first project upon buying our C25, other than cleaning, was to remove and rebed the portlight in the quarter-berth and I relied greatly on the discussions at the time. One issue was that the space between the inner and outer walls differed markedly over the height of the portlight and somewhat fore and aft. Not wanting any future risk of water in that space I inserted foam weather seal (circular cross section) down about 1.5� if memory serves me and filled the gap with thickened epoxy. I used 3/8� foam along the bottom and 1/4� along the top. Do it in steps and take care to ensure that the portlight and its frame remain properly aligned and spaced. Once cured I drilled as needed and inserted barrel nuts to receive the screws in the final install. No evidence of any leaking since. That said, there are others much more experienced than me.
bigelowp	Posted - 01/02/2022 : 06:51:56 Bruce -- In the C25 Specific Forum, topic: "Taking on Water", halfway down Leon Sission's post touches upon his replacing his windows and using butyl tape, etc. You might want to reach out to him to compare notes of what he did and issues he had to deal with.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 01/01/2022 : 21:17:17 quote: Originally posted by Voyager ...Of course when I open up the windows, I�ll have to fill the any open space (where there once was core) between the fiberglass skins with thickened epoxy layered in. I'm dubious about filling the void with a lot of epoxy... I think part of having two fiberglass moldings with wood, foam, or honeycomb between them, besides saving weight, is allowing some resilience in the structure. Where substantial resin is involved, fiberglass matting is layered into it for similar reasons.
Voyager	Posted - 12/30/2021 : 13:58:45 Portlights � I�ve been wondering about the right way to go on this because I�ve heard that the CD kit works for some but not all Catalina windows. I�m wondering whether anybody has simply used Butyl Tape to seal the glass against the aluminum frames? Once the butyl tape is tight against the outside, do you have to add any spacers on the inside to keep the glass snug against the tape? How would you do that? Hard foam core? Of course when I open up the windows, I�ll have to fill the any open space (where there once was core) between the fiberglass skins with thickened epoxy layered in.
dmpilc	Posted - 11/28/2021 : 07:06:07 Any of you guys ever watch the show about catching big blue fin tuna off the Outer Banks? There was one episode recently showing those guys going back out in rough weather having to navigate 10-12' swells leaving the harbor. WOW! That's gutsy. One smaller boat had to follow right on the stern of a larger boat to make it out.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 11/24/2021 : 14:57:08 Bruce: "Passing over falls" is not quite the same as passing an overfall. There a big one just off the west tip of Fishers Island (NY/CT) where there's about a 150'- 200' underwater cliff in The Race where the tide flows into and then back out of Long Island Sound. At full flow in either direction it looks like a giant washing machine with water flying into the air. Even though the shallow part is something like 30' deep, I steer clear.
bigelowp	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 21:02:50 For the third year in a row, my project is . . . . . repainting the non-skid on the forward bow deck. Local boat yard tells me it is a lost cause because of moisture levels indicated by moisture meter. My research says different. Besides one season of not slipping off is worth needing to redo project more frequently if moisture is an issue.
Steve Milby	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 18:59:03 Thanks for the definition of "overfalls" Bruce. I never knew what to call them.
hlprmnky	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 18:54:59 My mast is already down for the season, I paid to have the yard do it when they hauled her specifically because I knew the masthead and step plate work were on my list for the winter. It was expensive but I have resigned myself to a certain amount of extra expense as I learn my way around boat ownership. As to the knotmeter, sure I have GPS but I also have DMI depth and knotmeters, probably original to the boat, that work perfectly other than the current paddlewheel being out of paddles - even the backlights still work! Why wouldn�t I spend $40 and an hour to restore it to 100% functionality? GPS on a handheld device is a modern wonder and for safety and convenience I would never willingly be without it, but having it doesn�t mean I am compelled to use it all the time, when a compass and knotmeter and chart are all inexpensive and easy to store and use. Thanks for the advice and well wishes, I will be sure to update the thread as to progress or lack thereof in the spring.
Voyager	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 17:55:04 Hi Dave, I really liked your HUH?!?! Yea, overfalls. According to the Internet gods here�s a reference: https://www.dictionary.com/browse/overfalls Me personally I�ve experienced their turbulence around eastern LISound like near The Race, near Kelsey Pt, Black Pt and Bartlett Reef where strong currents flow up from deep waters rising towards shallow rocky shoal areas and cause very turbulent flow, especially in strong opposing winds. This can really affect sailboat navigation. But since powerboaters can just crank up the throttle, they�d probably never even notice them. Whoops! Musta hit another speed bump!
Voyager	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 17:35:54 Hey Hlprmnky � That sounds like a monumental list of tasks. Perhaps you should prioritize them? Sounds like the electrical projects are pretty high on your list, so may I suggest that you set up several 12VDC outlets near to where you need power? (Under the gunwales for the auto-tiller, in the bilge for the bilge pump, near the battery for the charger). Seems like the mast needs to come down � wire halyards and mast tabernacle plate. I�d look to do that around March when we get an unseasonably mild stretch of weather (hopefully). Deep clean � I�d look to do that in stages. Spend two hours at a time by making a list: vee berth, head, salon, quarterberth, bilges, fender locker (aka dumpster), fuel locker and cockpit. That�s 7 weekends and you still have time to do other things. Some would say,�who needs a paddle wheel knot meter?!?!� I like mine very much, but if you have a GPS aboard, why on earth would you need an inherently inaccurate stone tool that should have been retired with LORAN and dead reckoning? My answer is an emphatic BECAUSE!!! I can�t comment on the marine head since I have a porta-potty (which suits my needs perfectly) and I have no practical knowledge of the fixed variety. Good luck with your projects.
hlprmnky	Posted - 11/23/2021 : 16:02:13 I have a bunch of projects lined up, if only I can get time to get up to the boat! - replace rope-to-wire halyards with rope, replace masthead sheaves to pass rope - add CD plate below mast step with attachment points for blocks, install line organizer, clutch, and cabin top winch on port side. This will allow running the main halyard and first single-line reefing line to the cockpit. - install and run power for a Raymarine ST-1000+ tiller pilot - install and run power for an electric bilge pump to supplement the manual one - add an anti-siphon loop to the �downstream� side of the head (between head and holding tank) - replace the paddlewheel in the knotmeter - get a slightly bigger tablet mount so I can stick my old iPad in the companionway with iNavX on it - move the shore power battery charger so it�s wired directly to the shore power supply with a breaker, currently it permanently consumes one of the shore power outlets - deep clean everything I can reach to get up old sand, PO dog fur, etc. stuck in crevices and corners If I can get through all of that before Tax Day I will be pleasantly surprised indeed, but I will also have a delightful sailing season.
Stinkpotter	Posted - 11/22/2021 : 10:10:06 quote: Originally posted by Voyager Dave B �... I can�t always trust that it�ll start on the first pull, or run every time I need to safely pass the over falls, boils or reefs... *Huh??*
Voyager	Posted - 11/21/2021 : 18:15:25 Hey Peter, I appreciate your advice on your experience with the portlights. I have no expectations that I�ll be able to replace the seals first time through, and figured that it would be a unique learning experience. I�m wondering whether I should use a ton of butyl tape to surround the glass or try to rebuild the core in the windows area. Whatever happens, I�ve got to fix it because the rain is coming in at will and my interior cushions have borne the brunt of it.
Voyager	Posted - 11/20/2021 : 19:39:27 Dave B � Yes the shiny, new Honda has been a trusty workhorse for years. I�ve used it for taking Passage in and out of the harbor, motor sailing on long trips sailing against the current or with strong headwinds, on a run when winds are light or anytime that I need to replenish the battery if solar isn�t cutting it. The engine is not dead by any means and probably has a lot more life in it, but certain signs tell me that I can�t always trust that it�ll start on the first pull, or run every time I need to safely pass the over falls, boils or reefs. In the spring I�ll offer it for sale and hopefully it�ll go to a good home � maybe a dink, or a lake angler who needs a spare for a tin boat.
dmpilc	Posted - 11/18/2021 : 19:47:42 I didn't intend to stop the thread with my remarks. Please continue telling us about your fall /winter projects.
dmpilc	Posted - 11/16/2021 : 07:04:41 A hint that worked well for me on cleaning the dumpster after clearing things out of it. Buy a new string mop. It should reach all the way to the deepest part of the dumpster.

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.