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 Replacement bulbs
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frejoh
1st Mate

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USA
96 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/11/2017 :  17:40:41  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Owner's manual does not list info for types of bulbs for replacement in the various locations. Is there a list available? Are there modern substitutes such as halogen, LED, etc.?

Fred Johnson
250 WK #669

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
7574 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2017 :  09:56:16  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Almost every style of bulb and configuration of contacts has an LED replacement now. That's by far the best choice for power consumption (typically 10-15% of incandescent), and they (supposedly) last much longer, but they're considerably more expensive. Here's WM's selection (5 pages)--you can find most of these for less in various other places--Defender for example, is ~25% lower for many.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic, CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage
Now on Eastern 27 Sarge (but still sailing when I can).

Passage, Mystic, and Sarge--click to enlarge.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 11/12/2017 10:02:45
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TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2158 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2017 :  12:13:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you want LEDs for red/green running lights, you must replace the entire fixture. You can't "cheap out" by just putting in a white LED bulb. White LED bulbs don't emit on the right frequencies, leading to incorrect color when viewed from a distance (the green is too blue, and the red is too pink/orange) and both are probably too weak because most of the light is off-color and gets blocked by the filters. You need to go with properly designed green and red LED fixtures that were specifically designed to emit the color and luminance required by USCG. They're not inexpensive.

White LED in existing stern light or anchor light is fine as a practical matter (though not USCG certified), though I'd go with a warm white one if you were to do that. Ditto for steaming light, but there's no real energy savings because your motor will be providing ample power.

Rick S., Swarthmore, PA
PO of Take Five, 1998 Catalina 250WK #348 (relocated to Baltimore's Inner Harbor)
New owner of 2001 Catalina 34MkII #1535 Breakin' Away (at Rock Hall Landing Marina)
Photobucket is holding my picture hostage!
----- 1998 C250WK #348 "Take Five" -----|-------- 1991 15' Trophy ----------|- 1985 14' Phantom -
---- Essington, PA on Delaware River -----|---------- Trailered to Lake Wallenpaupack ------------

Edited by - TakeFive on 11/12/2017 15:41:33
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
7574 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2017 :  13:52:18  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good point, especially concerning the red/green lights. From the USCG:

Some manufacturers are producing and distributing navigation lights that do not meet the certification
requirements indicated above. These lights are typically less expensive, making them a tempting choice
for uniformed consumers. Use of lights that do not provide the proper chromaticity, luminous intensity, or
cut-off angles could result in the issuance of a notice of violation or potentially cause an accident. Recreational
boaters should ensure each purchased navigation light contains the following information on the light
or its packaging:

USCG Approval 33 CFR 183.810
MEETS ABYC A-16 or equivalent
TESTED BY (an approved laboratory)
Name of the light manufacturer
Number of Model
Visibility of the light in nautical miles
Date on which the light was type-tested
Identification and specification of the bulb used in the compliance test.


The bulb is merely a component of the navigation light, and the whole combination has to be compliant.

This raises another issue to consider: Over the years, the red and green lenses of running lights can lose their color such that the lights become barely distinguishable. Lenses should be checked and replaced when needed.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic, CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage
Now on Eastern 27 Sarge (but still sailing when I can).

Passage, Mystic, and Sarge--click to enlarge.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 11/12/2017 13:59:15
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2979 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2017 :  15:40:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dr LED does make a led bulb specific to the Aqua Signal 25 red/green bow light. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/dr-led--red-green-for-port-starboard-and-bi-color-nav-lights--9353483?recordNum=20

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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frejoh
1st Mate

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USA
96 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2017 :  09:43:32  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the responses. If I just want to replace bulbs with incandescent, what are the specs? Single or double bayonet fitting? 12volt? Wattage? Size? Specifically, the white "underway" (?) light just above and in the same fitting with the deck light and the anchor light at the mast head aren't working, and I'd like to have the correct bulbs ready so that I only have to make one trip aloft. Seems like these should be available at non-marine sources, but maybe not.

Fred Johnson
250 WK #669
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Dave Brown
Navigator

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USA
137 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2017 :  10:42:59  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I replaced the bulbs with / LEDs I picked up from the , of all things, the truck stop. there 12v bulbs, and the outside fixtures, on the mast, and boat are water tight, so all is good. And yes, one can not find all the bulbs there, but most will work, and look the same. Yes I "cheap out" , but then Its just a 12v bulb. some will say this will not work, but pull one out, and stop buy the truck stop and compare them. In had them in my boat now for 3 yrs.

_____________/)____________________/)__________/))))____________
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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3048 Posts

Response Posted - 11/14/2017 :  04:38:53  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This may not be applicable to the Cat 250 but on my Cat 25 it was fitted with Aqua Signal 25 series lights, all-around (Stern, Nav, Steaming lights). All of these had/have the double festoon bulbs Incandescent) and all rated at 10 watts and approximately .7 -.9 amps including the cabin lights. I have a replacement LED for the stern light but have not used it yet. The cabin lights I replaced with LEDs. When you go to LEDs, one mfrs LEDs are not necessarily comparable to another mfrs LEDs. Maybe thru the years they have tightened up their standards but what I recall is that you really need to go by what others have used or take your chances regarding brightness for say the cabin lights. The outside lights (steaming, nav, etc) those you can probably go by if the mfr states the LED will provide 2 nautical mile brightness, that at least tells you something to go by but in regards to the discussions in other postings about replacing with an LED in an existing fixture versus buying an LED fixture with bulb included, the story is that USCG Regs only apply to fixtures (as an entire unit) not bulbs alone. So, if you want to be entirely within specs, go with a LED fixture that indicates it meets USCG Regs. Otherwise, go with an LED bulb that indicates it is satisfactory for 2 nautical miles. I replaced my anchor light with an OGM Photo-diode LED fixture which indicated it met USCG Regs. (The photo-diode automatically turns the bulb off during daytime/sunlight hours.)

When I replaced the festoon bulbs (double dimples) in my cabin with an LED substitute, the comparison in amps is something like: Festoon incandescent ~ .7-.9 amps versus LED ~ .1 - .25 amps. So, going to an LED bulb draws quite a bit less on your battery.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Wash DC http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 11/14/2017 04:43:28
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3820 Posts

Response Posted - 11/18/2017 :  08:56:48  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Fred, I think your question was "what kind of bulb configurations, voltage and wattage do I need to replace burned out light bulbs on my C25?" Whether incandescent, halogen or LED, there are a few specifics you should know about the bulbs.

They all must be rated at 12VDC +/- 10%. 110-120 VAC bulbs will not work. 3-6VDC flashlight bulbs will burn out.

There are different form factors, for example in the cabin fixtures the bulb base (metal part) is called a bayonet because it has two opposed pins on the shaft that go into a slot, then twist to hold the bulb in. Automotive part number is 1156, which is a parking light or taillight on a car. It has a single contact on the bottom.

In some bow light or running light fixtures there's a similar bulb, but it has a keyed bayonet (can only go in one way) with two contacts on the bottom. While it looks a lot like an auto 1157 bulb, it is not. The auto type is for combined signal and parking lights and have two light filaments inside the glass envelope. The boat type has one filament, but two base contacts.

Some running light fixtures have a Festoon style bulb, which is a cylindrical glass tube about 2" long with metal contacts on each end. Some have points on the metal ends, some have dimples, and the fixture will indicate which type you need. Some auto dome lights and license plate lights use these.

West Marine still carry all these bulb types as does Defender, Hamilton and even Amazon and Walmart online. They're cheap mostly between $3-10 depending on ratings.

For boat use incandescents typically consume 12-25W. This is between 1 and 2 Amps. Auto bulbs usually have steel bases while marine bulbs will use non-rusting metals (zinc, brass, stainless).

Most people have switched to LED because of the lower power consumption at 0.2-0.5Amps. With a 70 AH battery you can run two 25W navigation lights ( 4 amps total) for about 10 hours before your battery goes dead. With LEDS you can run for 40 hours.

If you have questions about specific light fixtures or specific light bulb types, post the website describing the one you're looking at and most folks on the forum should be able to advise bulb size, wattage, configuration and alternatives.

Me? I've replaced most but not all of my incandescents with LEDs, but I still love the amber glow of tungsten for some fixtures. My bow light and red/green are still incandescent. I have a nice halogen 12VDC for reading in the cabin. Brighter than all get out.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain Stratford & Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 11/18/2017 09:02:07
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