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Reefing the mainsail

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johnnyd
Deckhand

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USA
23 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/31/2020 : 02:25:58

Does anyone know how to rig the reefing line on the main? A diagram would be helpful. I have a basic idea just want to make sure I am doing it right. Thanks

C25BC
Navigator

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Canada
200 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2020 : 07:32:27

If you google jiffy reef system there�s lots of diagrams, I use the single line system, works well for me. I sail on a inland mountain lake and reef most summer afternoons when the wind kicks up.
( I can�t upload pics on this site

Angus
S.V.Tempus
#4748
1984 Catalina 25 SK/SR/Trad.

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2021 : 07:25:32

I sailed on an inland lake, rarely by myself, so I preferred what could be a a 2 line system, but I used a reefing hook at the gooseneck, eliminating the second line. I attached the aft line to the post on the cheek block near the end of the boom, ran the line under the boom and up through the reef grommet, back down and through the block, then forward to a cleat on the starboard side of the boom close enough to the mast to be able to control it while standing at the mast. To reef, I or my crew would ease the main halyard enough to put the forward reef grommet on the reef hook, tighten the main and cleat it. Then, with the helm easing the mainsheet, we would pull in the aft reefing line to bring the sail down to the boom. Reverse to shake out the reef. most of the time, if I thought we would need to reef, I did it at the dock getting the boat ready to sail.
On our C-22, I use a loose-footed main designed for racing with no reef option, also no slugs on the luff.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2021 : 08:45:50

with the 2 line method (not using a reef hook), the forward line generally starts on one side of the mast several inches below the boom, runs up through the reef grommet, then down to a cleat on the other side of the mast, also several inches below the boom. I believe that with a single line setup you would essentially continue the aft line forward but through a cheek block at the front of the boom, up through the forward reef grommet, then down to the cleat on the mast.
With a single line system, I believe you would ease the main halyard while pulling in the reefing line, bringing the aft reef grommet to the boom first, then the forward grommet cleating the reefing line when both ends of the sail are down, then secure the halyard. You may need to ease the mainsheet a bit first, especially if you are single handing the boat. Also, some guys have installed a small swivel block at each reef grommet to reduce friction on the line. Recommend 5/16" line.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

C25BC
Navigator

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Canada
200 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2021 : 11:45:39

I bought and installed the reef kit from Catalina Direct for my C22, it worked fine, but didn�t like having to go to the mast to to put the hook in the grommet, especially in heavy weather. For my 25 I bought the components separately, continuous line runs back to the cockpit and works well.
5/16 the line is what I use also.
I�ve read a lot of positive info on the double reef line set up.

Angus
S.V.Tempus
#4748
1984 Catalina 25 SK/SR/Trad.

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2021 : 20:22:40

After reading about the pros and cons of single vs. 2-line jiffy reefing, I installed single line jiffy reefing (1st & 2nd reefs) on my Catalina 25. It works great for me.

As described by DavidP, I have ball bearing blocks at the cringles of 1st reef to reduce friction in the long single line. Using those blocks, the reefing line doesn't switch sides at the cringles. As I recall, I omitted the blocks at the 2nd reef cringles, as I've only needed to use it a few times.

Lines for both reefs are lead aft along the stbd side through fairleads, turning blocks, deck organizer, and line clutches. I have cabin top halyard winches aft of the clutches for final tensioning if needed.

With halyard, vang, and topping lift also lead aft, I can take in a reef single handed very quickly.

� Leon Sisson

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2021 : 21:25:57

Leon and David: I'm curious about chafe on the sail from carrying blocks at the reef points when the sail isn't reefed. (I assume you aren't installing them when you decide to reef.)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2021 : 14:10:44

I haven't tried it, so I don't know about chafe, but I suspect we're talking about a Harken micro block and soft shackle at the 2 grommets, shouldn't be very abrasive. when in use, the shackles probably come down snug against the boom.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1519 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2021 : 17:12:12

Here's a diagram of a jiffy reefing setup

JohnP
1978 C25 SR/FK "Gypsy"
Mill Creek off the Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay
Port Captain, northern Chesapeake Bay

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2021 : 21:50:20

Regarding the diagram: (1) Is Leon describing a block at the reef clew as well as the tack? (2) I believe the block toward the boom end must be positioned to tension the foot of the main when reefed.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

C25BC
Navigator

Members Avatar

Canada
200 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2021 : 07:49:52

I use 2 cheek blocks each at a 22.5 angle away from the sail, 3 eye straps on the boom between the blocks, one round padeye on the mast running to a block at the base, running thru the clutch back to the cockpit. Using a continuous Samson warp speed 5/16 line ( no hook ) .
It works efficiently and without fail every time on my loose foot main .

Angus
S.V.Tempus
#4748
1984 Catalina 25 SK/SR/Trad.

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2021 : 07:57:50

Your choice of setup may also depend on whether you have a fixed boom or sliding gooseneck.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2021 : 12:07:38

I like the idea of a small block at the cringle, and I'll be making that change, although it'll mean switching sides for the padeyes on the boom.

But I just use my single-line system on my second reef. The first reef is what I use fairly often on SF Bay in the summertime. That's the "Yes, dear" reef (I probably don't need to explain the term to those who bring the Admiral along), and I'm OK with going forward to secure the tack in conditions that just need a single reef. But when it's time for the 2nd reef, I want to be able to do that entirely from the cockpit. That 2nd reef is my "Oh, S#!T" reef.

I use 1/4" Amsteel for the reefing line, for it's low friction.

One problem that should be pointed out, is the inconvenience posed by that reefing line - especially when it's used for the upper, second reef. Each time the mainsail comes down I have the sagging loops of line to deal with. Hauling it all back to the cockpit, and stowing it properly, would mean it would have to pay out as the sail goes back up, which would add difficulty to raising the sail. Instead, once the sail is bundled on the boom, I tuck those loops under the sail ties. When I'm sailing under the first reef I do haul in the excess. Then, if I shake-out that reef while underway I reach up and grab the line where it comes aft along the boom and I pull a bunch of slack into it before raising the sail to full hoist.

By the way, in considering a reefing system for the mainsail, thought also needs to be given to two related systems: the boom topping lift and the lazy-jacks. These have both been discussed at length in this forum, but "johnnyd" (as the Original Poster here) please give some thought to those systems at the same time as you set up your reefing system.

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

Edited by - Lee Panza on 01/10/2021 02:51:35

C25BC
Navigator

Members Avatar

Canada
200 Posts

Response Posted - 01/08/2021 : 13:55:47

[quote]Originally posted by dmpilc

Your choice of setup may also depend on whether you have a fixed boom or sliding gooseneck.
[/quote
Sliding goose neck

Angus
S.V.Tempus
#4748
1984 Catalina 25 SK/SR/Trad.

C25BC
Navigator

Members Avatar

Canada
200 Posts

Response Posted - 01/09/2021 : 06:31:32

[quote]Originally posted by dmpilc

Your choice of setup may also depend on whether you have a fixed boom or sliding gooseneck.
[/quote
Sliding goose neck

Angus
S.V.Tempus
#4748
1984 Catalina 25 SK/SR/Trad.

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2021 : 15:57:20

Another thing to consider is your sail/rig, standard or tall. I had the tall rig and found that the first reef brought it down close to standard rig size. Being a lake sailor, that didn't bother me. Most of my reefing was done at the dock before sailing, for the Admiral or daughter & granddaughter being on board.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

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