Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
For the AC, I used the BluesSea 8043, with voltmeter, master breaker, and 3 circuits. I ran 14 AWG marine grade triplex from the AC panel to each of the 4 GFCI outlets. (One in the galley, one next to the battery box for the battery charger, one in the aft berth, and one in the head), with the 2 berths sharing one circuit. 10 AWG marine grade triplex runs from the AC panel to a SmartPlug receptacle, located in the coaming box port side.
Because the previous AC system was non functioning and a fire hazard, the PO had used a handmade Shore Power to 115 outlet extension cord. Yikes!
SmartPlug: the old shore power receptacle was corroded and could not be locked easily. After reading about the SmartPlug on Maine Sail’s site, I decided to give it a try. I give it a B+. It does what it advertises: its a good solid connection and easy to lock/unlock. On the minus side, adding the receptacle to an existing shore power line is not as easy as the YouTube video shows. You really need a battery cable cutter and stripper, and don’t let the soap dry out until you’ve finished. Mounting on the boat was almost as advertised, the screw holes lined up, but the opening needed a little work with the Dremel. Also, on the Cat 25, the coaming back wall is at an angle which makes plugging it in a little more work than I would like. Also, there is just not enough enough room in the back of the coaming box for the little plate on the back of male receptacle, which only acts as a guard of for the wires. Finally, the final connections between the the 10 AWG wires and the receptacle uses a screw press plate instead of ring connectors. I’m not happy about that.
GFCI: I used Marinco GFCI part 1591-FI for the AC outlets. Well built but very expensive (but almost same price as a top-line Leviton at HomeDepot). It uses a pressure plate with the terminal screws. You can not use ring connector. The terminal screws can not be removed and there is a tab in the way. I’m unhappy with this setup, and I’ve seen others use a Dremel to remove the tab and use hooked spade connectors. I’m planning on doing the same.
Outlet Box: I salvaged 2 of the outlet boxes from the original setup. For the other 2 outlets I used Marinco FS Box part 6080. What a waste of money. The boxes are supposed to be weatherproof (whatever that means), but only if you can find the other parts, which you can’t. Next time, PVC boxes from HomeDepot.
Hey, looks like a great overhaul! These kind of projects are my favorite. The ones that are extremely detail oriented and are well thought out and that no one coming out on your boat will ever notice. You know what you did though, lol.
I did have a comment though.. While poking through the multiple posts i noticed that here you stated you ran 14 AWG to the GFI outlets and that you are running the battery charger from the one. It is probably fine and typically 14 awg gets you to 15amps (charger can draw 10A) but you probably wouldn't want to plug anything else in. I went to the website for the charger (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7605/BatteryLink_Charger) and in the specs they state "Cable size to meet ratings: 10 AWG Negative Cable, 6 AWG Positive Cable". I am unsure if this is from the charger to the battery, or AC to the charger so may want to check the packaging.
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
Yes, I have a dedicated AC circuit for the charger. The outlet is a GFCI mounted next to the charger on the battery box panel. The charger draws 3.25 amp @ 100V AC to produce 10 amp @ 12V DC. The AC line is 14 AWG triplex on a 15 amp circuit breaker.
On the DC side, 6 AWG to the positive terminals, 40 amp MRBF, and 10 AWG to negative terminal with 30 amp ATO fuse.
The other wires for the remote monitor and temperature sensor are 16 AWG.
The ACR is rated at 65 amps. The Nissan 9.8 alternator generates 80W (or 6.6 amp @ 12V). The starter draws up to 35-45 amps @ 12V (this number has been a subject of much debate).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.