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New project: Electrical Panel

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bjoye
Navigator

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USA
105 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/07/2016 : 11:16:53

The default panel location was under the steps. It had been heavy modified by POs. After a determination that the current electrical wiring was beyond hope, we relocated the panel to behind the sink in the galley. Using 1/2" King Starboard, routed out a copy of the original backing. Added DC Panel 10 circuits, AC Panel with master breaker and 3 circuits, AC outlet, DC outlet with USB, battery switch and battery charger monitor, and bilge pump switch. Next trip I'll be spending a lot of time in the lazarette locker wiring it all together.

"Frayed Knot" 1989 C-25 WK/SR #5878

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2016 : 17:46:25

Nicely done! Blue Sea makes great systems components!

Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2016 : 21:59:21

Nice job. I have liked it when I have had a few switches within reach of the cockpit/companionway. It was nice to be able to hit nav lights without going below.

Frank Hopper

Sailynn
Navigator

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USA
178 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2016 : 23:33:23

Nice job on the electrical panel. I could see that on our future list.

Lynn Buchanan
1988 C25 SR/WK #5777
Sailynn
Nevada City, CA

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2016 : 08:13:08

quote:
Originally posted by bjoye

...Next trip I'll be spending a lot of time in the lazarette locker wiring it all together.

Nice, clean job, Bill.

Now comes the FUN part... pulling wires.

Here's a suggestion, in two words:

access holes

...either with or without removable covers.

One important one is behind the drawers under the sink. Cutting a generous hole through that bulkhead (round, or well-rounded corners) will save you a lot of grief climbing in and out of the "dumpster." You feed wires into the space below the panels and then reach through that hole to pass the wires up so you can grab them through the hole where you have removed a panel, and you can make the connection to the panel in the relative comfort of the cabin instead of making repeated trips into the dumpster.

Other good places for access holes are under the dinette table or behind seat-back cushions. Those will need removable covers.

Another suggestion, although it adds considerable work during the installation, is to use those little C-clamp cable supports at key points along the wire runs instead of simply leaving the wires loose to flop around (and abrade on sharp corners and edges of fiberglass in the hidden spaces). Judging by how clean your components install looks I may be preaching to the choir here, but failing to support wires in those normally inaccessible spaces is a common fault even among production boat manufacturers: it the customer can't see the sloppiness it won't bother 'em.

Also, I'd recommend coating all connections with dielectric grease (I use a tiny dab of conductive grease on the eye-terminals before screwing them down, but that's probably overkill). I'm sure none of us actually does periodic inspections of the electrical connections, checking for corrosion, but it's a damp environment in those cavities behind the surfaces we see, and those connections usually put dissimilar metals in contact.

I've still got a lot of wires to install myself, and with retirement just a year away I've been putting it off (working in awkward, uncomfortable positions gets to be pretty exhausting). Gotta' budget the time between working on the boat and sailing it, and frankly I've been heavily favoring the latter. But the more "challenging" the job the more satisfying it is once it's done.

I'm glad to see another of these great little boats getting the attention they deserve. Good luck with your project.

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

bjoye
Navigator

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USA
105 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2016 : 10:33:53

Lee / All

Thanks for comments and suggestions. I'm new to all of this, so any suggestions are more than welcome. My main source of info has been here and the postings of Maine Sail over at SailboatOwners.

Yes we are on the same page. I'm thinking about 4 sets of separate cable runs, DC, AC, battery cables and NMEA network. Labels on all runs. Perhaps some combination of a wire loom and/or wire ties. Your C-clamp idea is also a good option. And yes, already have the dielectric grease ready, along with crimping tools and a weller heat gun. I calculate I have up to 200 crimps/heat shrink connections ahead of me when all set and done.

Dual batteries are already installed in boxes with battery terminal fuses (trying to be compliant with the 7" rule) with a Blue Seas Battery Link charger with builtin ARC (Mini Add-A-Battery Kit).

All battery runs are 6 gage. I had to buy a serious crimping tool and cable cutters for the 6 gage cables. I'm running the motor cables thru the lazarette locker to a trolling motor quick disconnect in the transom. The PO has 10 gage previously. Must have been red hot when cranking the Nissan 9.8 engine.

Next to install are 2 banks of fuse holders and the battery charger in the aft berth under the stairs. I have a thing about in-line fuses. I want all fuses accessible. The panels need a number of 1 amp / 2 amp fuses for the meters and lights. Last count I'm up to 10 fuses in all.

I'm trying to keep all electronics high as possible and out the water / moisture / grime of the cabin sole / bilge. The PO had the mast cable run going thru the bilge. There has to be a better way.

For AC shore power I'm thinking about swapping out the current L5-30 AC receptacle with a SmartPlug, if I can get it to fit.

Finally, I need to come up with some sort of "false" wall in the lazarette locker so that someone does not accidentally jab a pole into the back of the panels or wiring. The AC has its own backing panel, but the other panels and wiring need protection.

"Frayed Knot" 1989 C-25 WK/SR #5878

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.