Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
At the link below are photos of my crash pump installation. Lacking an inboard to which I could install a crash pump, I went with the largest capacity electric bilge pump I could find. I forgot to take photos of the finished thru-hull and outlet hose mounted in the lazarette and to the thru-hull, so I'll post an update later when I get those photos.
In summary, its a Rule 4000 GPH and Super Float Switch mounted beneath the companionway steps, connected to 2" ID smooth bore outlet hose routed up to a loop in the lazarette, then along the same path as the manual pump outlet hose to a thru-hull mounted just above the manual pump outlet thru-hull. I didn't think of needing the busbar for the float switch setup before hand, so I used a screw as a busbar to make it work for now.
1) are very careful with your measurements, 2) use the drill bit size proper for fiberglass to pre-drill the holes (larger than the diameter appropriate for wood as the bit diameter should be equal to the shank of the screw), 3) make sure not to drill all the way through the hull (using a drill stopper is safest), 4) seal the holes with a proper marine grade sealant (like Life Seal), and 5) make sure not to over-tighten the screws because fiberglass retains little structural strength as soon as you start to strip the threads.
I've posted this before but an alternative to drilling into the hull is to use small pea sized dabs of 5200 to hold bilge pumps and switches to the hull. It's easily cut with a razor if you need to remove them without damage to the gel coat. One of the few times I use 5200 on a boat. For the bilge pump, 3 dabs around the perimeter of the basket, Let it cure then snap the pump into the basket.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I've posted this before but an alternative to drilling into the hull is to use small pea sized dabs of 5200 to hold bilge pumps and switches to the hull. It's easily cut with a razor if you need to remove them without damage to the gel coat. One of the few times I use 5200 on a boat. For the bilge pump, 3 dabs around the perimeter of the basket, Let it cure then snap the pump into the basket.
Seeing your previous post about the 5200 for this use, I liked the idea and considered doing the same. In the end, I decided on the mechanical fasteners because I was more familiar with their properties.
I used a dab of epoxy on the bottom grill. Just seems like an unnecessary risk.
Let's consider unnecessary risk: Which epoxy are you using? What's your epoxy's sheer strength? What's the torque your bilge pump will exude on its mounting? What diameter blob of your epoxy should you use to tack your pump to the hull? What's the risk of your bilge pump dismounting itself when you need it most?
Very low risk for me. Loctite marine epoxy, would take a hammer and block to remove. If you think a bilge pump puts out enough torque to rip it off I think you definitely should be avoiding drills near your hull. I've been in some pretty rough damn waters with it without any issue. I've used similar technique to attach mounting blocks for other items (guides to hold replacement freshwater tank, additional block to help mount battery tray board, transducer) without issue and see i'm definitely not the first to try it; I know I've read about it here.
Offshore Account, 1977 Hull #243. SR, SK
Edited by - offshoreaccount on 06/28/2016 19:25:33
Very low risk for me. Loctite marine epoxy, would take a hammer and block to remove. If you think a bilge pump puts out enough torque to rip it off I think you definitely should be avoiding drills near your hull. I've been in some pretty rough damn waters with it without any issue. I've used similar technique to attach mounting blocks for other items (guides to hold replacement freshwater tank, additional block to help mount battery tray board, transducer) without issue and see i'm definitely not the first to try it; I know I've read about it here.
You're needlessly making unqualified remarks about my ability with power tools. Save it for a different forum. Perhaps you'd prefer sailinganarchy.com.
Meanwhile back at the ranch, did you figure out the blob size needed for your application?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.