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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Steering under power

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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/20/2016 : 19:29:45

Hello everyone,

I was wondering how all of you steer under power. I haven't done it yet but having given it some thought, it seems to me that if you were to turn the rudder enough it could hit the outboard's prop. Not having my rudder on the boat just now, I don't know if it could reach the prop. Anyway, do you steer with the rudder or the outboards tiller ? Or maybe some of each ? I appreciate your patients. Thanks.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2016 : 20:30:24

The prop hitting the rudder depends on where your motor is mounted. On my '89 I can go full throw on the rudder and it does not hit the prop.

As for steering under power, it really depends on how tight the area is where you are maneuvering. In tight areas I use both motor and rudder. If you have more room you can get by using just the rudder as long as you have some headway.

When backing out of my slip I use both rudder and motor to swing the boat around quickly and get underway. Once underway and then again when coming back into my slip I use the rudder only.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 06/20/2016 20:30:46

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2016 : 05:58:01

Under way, steering with the rudder is much easier and completely effective. In fact, if you try to steer with the motor while under way, you'll probably be surprised by how easily it over-steers, making a steady course or gradual turn difficult.

Around the dock, turning the motor can help you maneuver at low or no speed, although you generally also want to turn the rudder so it isn't a drag against the motor. When backing, you have to hold the rudder to keep it from being pushed full-over where it becomes a brake instead of a rudder. I don't remember it ever contacting the prop. (There would have been evidence.)

I set the motor's steering damper, which makes the motor harder or easier to turn, just tight enough that it would hold the position under way but be easy to turn when I wanted. While under way, I'd adjust the motor slightly until the unattended tiller was centered ("neutral helm") while on a straight course, and from there, steer with the rudder.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 06/21/2016 06:16:50

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2016 : 16:52:14

keep in mind that there isn't much point in moving the tiller/rudder beyond about 45� in forward or reverse motion. The rudder stalls and has little turning force.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

RickR
1st Mate

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USA
25 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2016 : 10:19:44

Agreed. That motor steering is a valuable tool when entering and exiting the slip at LOW speeds.

RickR
Jamestown, NY
81 C25/SK/SR/Trad #2668
"Vind Dansor"

Phredde
Navigator

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2016 : 16:39:54

Yes, I agree, I mostly just use tiller steering. But steering with the motor has gotten me out of a few jams in the marina fairways. Sometimes a quick turn of the motor, with a short bust of throttle is just what you need to get back on track. And no, no issue with the rudder touching the motor. But here is my dilemma: my Nisan 8 hp outboard is stuck in the straight on position. It takes EXTREME effort to pivot it either way. The main shaft going down has quite a bit of rust on it but otherwise the motor works fine. I've spent some time trying to service it with WD-40 and marine lube. And of course have backed off completely the bolt that tensions it, but no improvement. So here are my questions: how unsafe is it to have it 'frozen' straight ahead? I think if I stay out of those dicey situations it could be fine. And do you think that an outboard shop could repair it? I guess I could take it in for a look. I'd hate to have to go the third route and bite the bullet for a new motor. Any advice is appreciated.

Phredde
Catalina 25
San Francisco

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2016 : 19:23:14

Instead of WD 40 try some PB blaster

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2016 : 19:26:42

quote:
Originally posted by panhead1948

Instead of WD 40 try some PB blaster

Agreed, this stuff will loosen things that WD-40 wont't touch.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2016 : 20:27:34

Phredde--one thing to keep in mind for close-order maneuvering is "prop-walk". At very low or no speed, gunning the motor in forward will push the stern to starboard, turning the boat to port. Gunning it in reverse pulls the stern to port. Sometimes you can use this to advantage to turn the boat, and often it helps to be familiar with this to avoid unexpected behavior. When I approach my slip, which is on starboard and which I enter bow-in, I shift to reverse while moving forward, give a little gas, and the boat both slows and starts pivoting to starboard (stern to port) as it comes to a stop. I also know that as I enter, reverse will pull my stern toward the finger dock on port, and forward will push it away. Knowing that and practicing it can make a big difference in close-order maneuvering. It's another aspect of "steering under power."

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 06/23/2016 20:31:30

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2016 : 07:05:41

I don't understand the rust, marine engine's shouldn't have heavy rust but definitely use the PB Blaster. The zerk fittings are probably frozen and won't accept grease so remove them (they unscrew) and soak them in some Blaster then spray Blaster in the zerk fitting holes and work the engine from side to side. This might take repeating but it should loosen up. Once you get it loose clean the zerk fittings by pushing the little ball on the end in and out. Once those are clean replace them and with a grease gun grease it up good. If you can't get the zerk fitting working any auto store will have replacements.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2016 : 17:15:53

I wouldn't waste 1 minute messing with the zerk fittings. For less than $10 you can replace them with new and save 30 minutes of your time that you could use for sailing.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Phredde
Navigator

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2016 : 14:17:27

Guys - thank you for the recommendation on PB Blaster. It removed quite a bit of rust from the main rod that the engine swivels on. It is still not moving freely, but is unstuck. I am going to let it rest and give it another round. That should help delay the expense of a new motor for at least another year or two. Thanks again!

Phredde
Catalina 25
San Francisco

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.