Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've only used it a little, but like it very much. It's easy to work with and seems to work well. One of the best things about it is that, if I only have a small job to do, I don't have to buy an expensive tube of caulk that I won't use, and then waste it from drying out before I'll need it again. Butyl tape seems to have a very long shelf life.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
...Butyl tape seems to have a very long shelf life.
...which leads to another characteristic some friends of mine have complained about: it never really sets up. Some people like that; others don't. I use polysulfide (Life Caulk), which sets up, stays pliant, and trims and removes easily. Different strokes...
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Speaking of windows. With heavy rain I get a lot of water from between the rear of the starboard setee and the quarter berth. I have re bed all deck hardware. The windows look good but maybe not. Sound like that could be the source? If forgot to mention it comes from the deck joint area and drips off of the interior trim.
Speaking of windows. With heavy rain I get a lot of water from between the rear of the starboard setee and the quarter berth. I have re bed all deck hardware. The windows look good but maybe not. Sound like that could be the source? If forgot to mention it comes from the deck joint area and drips off of the interior trim.
Sounds familiar--like the bolts holding the genoa track and also reinforcing the hull-deck joint. This is probably not the "kosher" solution, but I removed some bolts in the offending area, injected a little silicone into the holes, and re-bolted (a messy 2-man job). It worked. That's just about the only place I've used silicone sealer on the boat, but it's not exposed to UV and should never need to be removed or cleaned up... I'll accept whatever demerits this community (or "Voyager" Bruce Ross) sees fit to deal out.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
So, you did have a similar leak from the Genoa track? I didn't think about those being an issue.
If you're asking me, yes--apparently so. Each bolt holding the track goes through the deck, reinforcing the hull-deck joint. So each bolt is a potential leak. The better remedy is probably to remove the entire track and then re-bed it. I wasn't up for that at the time.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I used byutal to rebed my windows. The one thing I noticed was the wood been the inner and outer fiberglass was rotted and turned to powder. I filled in the gap with new wood and epoxy reseated the windows and took two days to slowly tighten the frames. Haven't had a leak since.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.