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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 02/05/2016 : 21:03:55

Ok, please explain the straps process for me...I can almost imagine it but then wonder about things like steering the trailer, etc.

Help me imagine it...

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1998 Catalina 36 mkii
1983 Vagabond 14

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2016 : 06:42:43

Hi guys,
When I trailer my C25 FK to launch, I plan to have the rudder and outboard in the pick up. I have an outboard motor stand on wheels that is easily moved and supports the motor standing up or laying down. This might sound like a lot of extra work but just now makes sense to me. I will drop the trailer when I get to the launch site, back up the truck to the boat's transom, then lift the motor and rudder to their mounts from a much higher, flat working platform.
Please keep in mind that I have not yet tried out this plan. maybe it wont work. Time will tell. A question for Steve, my trailer has a 12 ft extension. So should I be able to ramp launch ? Good sailing everyone.
Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2016 : 10:28:28

Whether or not you can ramp launch your boat depends on whether you can get your boat into water that is at least as deep as your boat's draft. That depends on several factors.

First, obviously, if your boat has 4' draft, the water has to be at least 4' deep. That isn't always the case, so you should search for a ramp that has deep enough water to launch your boat.

Next, the type of trailer will determine how much water you'll need to ramp launch the boat. A trailer with fixed bunks will need deeper water to launch a boat than a trailer with roller bunks and swing arms. You have to float the boat off a trailer with fixed bunks. That means the water must be at least as deep as the boat's draft, plus the height of the base of the keel from the road when sitting on the trailer, and possibly plus a few inches more to lift the boat higher than the curved bunks on which the boat is sitting.

When you launch a boat from a trailer with roller bunks and swing arms, the swing arms rotate back and down, lowering the boat down to the water. My EZ Loader trailer had swing arms and rollers, and I normally backed it in far enough so that the water was just at the height of the trailer's fenders. As I recall, my boat's hull was still about 2 1/2 ft. above the water, but the swing arms tilted back, lowering the boat to the water. The stern touched the water first, and the bow was still sitting on the forward swing arm and rollers. As I unwound the winch, the bow slid down off the trailer into the water. As long as the water was 4' deep at a point about 3 ft behind my trailer, I could launch the boat.

I foolishly didn't buy a tongue extension for my trailer, and regretted it. A tongue extension will get the trailer back into deeper water, without having to back your tow vehicle so deep into the water. Fortunately, in most places that I launched, the ramps were steep and the water became deep quickly, so I could usually launch my boat without a tongue extender.

Lots of our members use straps to help get their boats and trailers into water that is deep enough to float the boat off it. I never tried it, mostly because, with my swing arm trailer, it wasn't necessary, but also because I saw a Catalina dealer in Florida try it and somehow the boat got away from him. It appeared that the boat came off the trailer, stuck it's transom into the mud, and pointed it's bow straight up to the sky, and sat there like that. The owner was due to take delivery of his new C25 within an hour. If I ever saw one of our members strap launch a boat successfully, the thought of it probably wouldn't scare me so much, but the sight of that incident still lingers in my memory.

I recently learned that some states now have websites that describe the locations of their boat ramps, and provide some information about them. Florida has one, and Maryland has one.

https://public.myfwc.com/LE/boatramp/public/default.aspx

http://dnr2.maryland.gov/boating/Pages/water-access/aa.aspx

My thinking was that, if I towed my boat somewhere and couldn't find a suitable free launch ramp, I would bite the bullet and pay to have it hoisted. There's no point in letting that ruin a good, well-earned vacation.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2016 : 11:21:09

Thanks for the info Steve,
I hope to have my boat ready for the water by this spring or early summer. I'm on a waiting list for a slip but sense they are currently upgrading the marina, I'm looking at almost two years away. In the mean time I have a hoist available at $40 a lift. Thats both in and back out at $40. Not too bad I suppose, but ramp launching would still be much cheaper. I guess maybe when I'm ready I should take my rig to the ramp just to try it and find out. Thanks again.
Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2016 : 16:40:09

I had a C25 swing keel and a fin keel trailer with pads, not bunks, and an extension bar, but couldn't use it for several years because a PO did not put a flexible hose or quick disconnect on the brake line. When I pulled out, I had to use the strap method.
So, here's a description of how to do it safely. I had a long, 3" wide strap, maybe 4", with a reinforced loop in each end with a capacity of at least 10,000 lbs. I can't remember how long mine was, but you want to have 30', not 20'! For launching, when you get to the ramp with the boat and trailer, chock the wheels, leave the safety chains attached and, with someone ready to stand on the tongue, raise the trailer tongue off of the hitch. Move the tow vehicle forward a couple of inches and lower the trailer tongue to level the trailer. Release the safety chains and drive the tow vehicle forward 10-15 ft. Secure one end of the strap to the trailer (ex. wrap one end of the strap through the V in the tongue, pass the strap through the loop in that end and pull tight so the strap rides on top of the actuator) and take the other end of the strap to the tow vehicle. Remove the ball mount and insert the strap loop into the receiver. Secure it with the hitch pin you use with the ball mount. Pull the tow vehicle forward to take up the slack and forward enough to remove the chocks. With someone on board to release any lines keeping the boat from sliding backward on the trailer and to start the motor, let the rig roll backward (slowly) into the water until the boat is in the water. Release the bow lines and continue back until the boat begins to float.

Pulling out is essentially the reverse. After hooking up the strap, lower the trailer deep enough to float on. Secure the bow to the trailer bow winch and run a 50' line attached in the middle to the winch post back to each genoa winch and tighten up to hold the boat snug to the bow winch. Pull out slowly and chock the wheels. Back the tow vehicle up to the trailer, remove the strap and secure the trailer to the tow vehicle. Un-chock the trailer wheels and pull forward off the ramp.
Harbor Freight has a 3" x 20' strap rated at 9,000 lbs. Didn't see one 30' long.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - dmpilc on 03/06/2016 22:01:58

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2016 : 16:26:48

Whew, makes me glad I have a swinger.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2016 : 19:53:55

I made an almost 20ft tongue extention. Looks scarry, but works great. And of course everyone who walks by has to say something.

Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

Edited by - Akenumber on 03/06/2016 09:55:18

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2016 : 16:30:44

I launch from a roller system without a swing arm. If you are talking about long, slippery bunk boards and not multiple pads I think the process would similar to mine. The trailer generally gets well and truly submerged to the axles. That fortunately happens with the truck tires at the water's edge for me since I don't think the new truck's electric parking brake would like saltwater. When the stern floats and rises relative to the trailer, the forward section slides down the rollers since the trailer is inclined on the ramp. The painful part only comes when I forget to tighten the keel winch before launch.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

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