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Swing Keel cable attachment

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2016 : 16:14:00

My previous boat had a swaged eye with thimble on the cable and a galvanized anchor shackle. A simple set up - pass the shackle through the eye and put the pin through the keel. A galvanized shackle needs to be checked annually; I replaced mine a couple of times over the years due to the galvanizing wearing off and corrosion setting in.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 02/08/2016 : 21:55:30

My first question is how the heck does the winch lift the keel with that attachment position. My winch is located under the stairs of the companionway which is toward the aft end of the keel. Your location puts the winch somewhere around the trunk, about mid-cabin. That does not seem right. The leverage of your setup appears to be very different from most SK's.

Brian & JoAnne Gleissner
Knot So Fast
1984 Catalina 25, SR/SK
Traditional Interior
Lake Candlewood, CT

Edited by - BCG-Woodbury on 02/08/2016 21:56:19

DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2016 : 06:18:54

quote:
Originally posted by BCG-Woodbury

My first question is how the heck does the winch lift the keel with that attachment position. My winch is located under the stairs of the companionway which is toward the aft end of the keel. Your location puts the winch somewhere around the trunk, about mid-cabin. That does not seem right. The leverage of your setup appears to be very different from most SK's.

I originally thought that as well, however if you look to the lower left corner of the photo you can see the end of the keel putting the attachment point <12" to the end which is correct. This bale probably was installed at the exact point where the factory connection was and most likely failed, hence the cut-out in the trailing edge.

Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053

BCG-Woodbury
Mainsheet Editor

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USA
396 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2016 : 06:42:26

Thanks David - I was thinking that was the pivot point, it is the zinc anode attachment. Now I understand, that attachment appears to be more robust than the original design. Someone should market a retrofit kit, I'd buy one.

Brian & JoAnne Gleissner
Knot So Fast
1984 Catalina 25, SR/SK
Traditional Interior
Lake Candlewood, CT

Boomeroo
Navigator

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Australia
128 Posts

Response Posted - 02/09/2016 : 16:19:44

quote:
Originally posted by JamesBird

That might be a better solution than what I have. Do you have a picture of it?

Hi , Yes I do and have posted it sometime ago but have failed to get it out of Shutterfly this time .. Work on that BUT have posted it on the association facebook page.

Graeme Bishop boomeroo Australia
C25 SK

JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2016 : 14:48:58

Well I started drilling out the broken bolt but didn't get very far. Barely scratched it. so I started a new hole next to the old bolt. I was told it would be easier drilling cast iron than drilling out the SS. Not so. I can't remember when I've had this much Fun! The position I'm in under the boat doesn't allow me to provide much pressure on the bit and it's taking forever. After 3 hours of back breaking agony (over a few days), i'm only half way through.

but I'm getting there.

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)

Boomeroo
Navigator

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Australia
128 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2016 : 19:30:42

Jim thats hard going. I drill a 1/8 in pilot hole in thru the crust which is usually harder then 3/16 in thru and then a larger drill is much easier. All up 1/2 hr . Hard position or blunt drill?
cast iron should be easier to drill after the hard 1st bit of low carbon surface. Pilot hole is critical for larger holes over 1/4 in..
good luck..

Graeme Bishop boomeroo Australia
C25 SK

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/23/2016 : 20:45:20

Coated bits, the gold ones, and plenty of cutting oil. With good, sharp bits and liberal oil it shouldn't be that difficult. I spent less time drilling and tapping six 1/4" holes and mounting zincs than your experienced just drilling, but a pilot and progressing up in size is important. Pull the bit completely out frequently to clear the cuttings. Good luck finding a 1/8" bit long enough to go through, but drill as deep as you can and don't bind and break the bit or you get to start over.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2016 : 07:30:40

Dave, The bit is a new Cobalt 5/16. I am using a smaller bit for a pilot hole but not as small as 1/8. I'll try that and see if it makes a difference. What do you recommend for a cutting oil?

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2016 : 13:29:48

Any brand, but I make a point of using actual cutting oil labeled as such. I used to use any light oil I had handy, but I'm now convinced that it makes a difference. Any big box hardware, Ace, local, or Harbor Freight will have it. 3/16" might be OK with less danger of breaking, but try for 1/4" depth with 1/8" as Boomeroo suggested

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2016 : 14:15:47

I will. Thanks

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2016 : 20:18:16

Also, use a low speed and moderate pressure

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2016 : 17:59:36

Went back to drilling the keel today. Spent another two hours at it and finally broke through. Success, but what a PIA that was. My legs are killing me.

Using a smaller pilot drill seemed to help. Thanks Dave

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)

Edited by - JamesBird on 02/25/2016 18:01:46

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