Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Just had my engine serviced for the season and I can't seem to connect the wires correctly to get the electric starter to function. Now here is my problem. I reinstalled the engine and the electric starter is not working. It's not my battery. The pull rope works just fine. When I press the starter, it makes noise but the engine doesn't turn over. It's as if the starter motor is working but not igniting the engine.
As for the wires that are connected, on the right is the positive from the battery and the wire from the fuse. On the left is the negative from the battery and the negative from the engine. Like I said, I can pull the cord and it starts up. Am I not seeing an extra wire from the starter motor? And if so, which side would it go on? Pos or Neg. I'll post a picture tomorrow when I go back out to the
quote:When I press the starter, it makes noise but the engine doesn't turn over. It's as if the starter motor is working but not igniting the engine.
If you can hear the starter turning but its not engaging the flywheel to start the engine more than likely its a stuck or broken spring on the Bendix gear. The bendix gear is the gear on the starter motor shaft that spins out and engages the flywheel gear when the starter is engaged. It could be stuck from dirt, rust or even the teeth could be worn. If you can remove the starter, On the end you will see this gear. Check to see if it is stuck to the shaft. You should be able to rotate it on the shaft and in doing so it will rotate out along the shaft. Spraying it with some PB Blaster can help free it up.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
So they just serviced your engine? And they didn't try the starter? WTHeck? Giving them the benefit of the doubt, if it did start when they serviced it, maybe some piece of debris got stuck in the bendix gizmo?
I have an older 2-cycle Mercury 7.5 HP with an electric start. The wires on mine are not correctly marked ... there is red heat-shrink tubing on the negative lead, and black heat-shrink tubing on the positive lead. It was many years ago when I discovered that, but I seem to recall that hooking it up backwards made the starter spin, but it wouldn't engage. Once I reversed the leads, the starter engaged normally.
I don't know much about electricity, so I hope I'm not steering you wrong. I would hate for you to reverse the leads and fry something. On the other hand, maybe that is the problem. Someone more knowledgeable than I can weigh in and give you their opinion.
Buz has a point on the reversed wires. If the wires are reversed the starter would spin backwards and the Bendix gear would never rotate out to engage the flywheel so yes you will hear the motor turning but not engaging the flywheel to start the engine. If the starter solenoid wasn't working the starter motor would do nothing and at best would only hear a click. I stress that this might be a cause if you got the wires reversed.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Thanks guys. I tried the reversed wires. No difference. All I hear is the clicking. The sound I hear is almost the same when you pull a spark plug wire and widen the gap. It was suggested that I had a low battery. Checked that and it's putting out 12.7 so that's not it. When I do push the starter button and put my hand on the starter, I feel nothing. I do feel the pulsing on the wire not coming from the fuse. I hope these descriptions help. As I am not home, I don't know how to post the pictures I took from my phone to this page. I'll post them tonight when I'm home.
You're right. They may have only tried pull starting if they had no battery. I looked at boats.net to check on the circuitry. Can't tell which exact model you may have - there are several. You may want to check it to see which parts you may need to order if you plan to fix the starter yourself. But here's a potential issue with reversing the wires: There are two wires on the engine. One positive, one negative. Your engine probably has an alternator therefore the wires serve two purposes: (1) starting the engine using the battery when the start button completes the circuit and (2) charging the battery from the alternator through the regulator. Once the battery is connected this circuit is energized. If you reverse the starter and it spins uselessly, then switch the wires, no harm done. But since the regulator is also reversed, it may be possible that a fuse popped due to the reversed voltage. Checking the circuitry on the 9.9 (4-STROKE)(209cc) Mercury Outboard 0P325500 Electric Start Models diagram, I see there is a fuse and also a rectifier. The rectifier may prevent reverse voltage, however it also converts AC current from the alternator into DC for the battery. The fuse may have popped, so check that - it should be > 40A. This may explain why the starter no longer does anything.
Again. Thanks. I'm struggling to respond since I only have my phone. Here's the model info. 1-F10311F K The manual says Big Foot/ProKicker 4 stroke. I didn't buy it so I'm not sure which I have. It does have the alternator that charges my battery. It's a 20A fuse. It's good. If I remove it I don't get the ticking sound. The problem is, it worked beautifully before I brought it in last week. The only difference is that it was services for oil, grease and impeller. Again, im leaving in a few minutes and when I get home I will up load the picture of the wire terminals.
OK, So up till now I thought you said the starter was turning but if its not and all you hear is the ticking, That tick is the solenoid. If it were me that is what I would replace. This is assuming you have good battery voltage eliminating low voltage as the problem. You could try just for giggles tapping the solenoid with the butt of a screwdriver, Its worked before. You can test to see if the solenoid is bad by connecting a battery directly to the starter bypassing the solenoid. Positive to the terminal on the bottom of the starter and then touching the negative to a clean spot the engine block. If the motor starts then the solenoid is no good.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
First off, I'm now home which means I am 105 miles from RAG Sail II and won't be able to try anything until next weekend. Also, even if I was out at the lake, it was pouring buckets since last evening. Not a time to be play with electric.
As for the picture, the wire on the right terminal with a red coating is the positive from the battery. That's the wire from the 20A fuse (yellow box above and the starter to the right). You can see the gear (Bendix?) When I turn that manually clockwise it rises up to engage. When I stop, it retracts telling me the spring is good. As I said, when I push the start button, there is no vibration or even any sensation to the touch (as if the solenoid was stuck and was straining to turn). I can feel a pulsing sensation on the black wire that is screwed to the negative post on the left. The pulsing is as quick as the clicking sound I am hearing. Again, the battery is showing 12.7 on my meter plus I am at dockside and the float is still attached.
Here is a diagram showing the wires. If you look at part #33 it is the fuse holder. In the diagram The wire coming out of the fuse holder appears to be connected to the left/negative side of the starter solenoid (#32) In your photo you have it connected to the right/positive side of the solenoid. Also possibly cable #28 in the diagram is connected to the right/positive side of the solenoid, In your photo it is connected to the left/neg side. Assuming this cable#28 connects to the positive terminal on the starter. If it connects to a ground then it is OK. That one is hard to tell just from a photo. Might be the problem?http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/9.9%20%284-STROKE%29%28209cc%29/0R042475%20%26%20Up/Electrical%20Components%2C%20Electric%20Start%20Models/parts.html
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Here is a diagram showing the wires. If you look at part #33 it is the fuse holder. In the diagram The wire coming out of the fuse holder appears to be connected to the left/negative side of the starter solenoid (#32) In your photo you have it connected to the right/positive side of the solenoid. Also possibly cable #28 in the diagram is connected to the right/positive side of the solenoid, In your photo it is connected to the left/neg side. Assuming this cable#28 connects to the positive terminal on the starter. If it connects to a ground then it is OK. That one is hard to tell just from a photo. Might be the problem?http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/9.9%20%284-STROKE%29%28209cc%29/0R042475%20%26%20Up/Electrical%20Components%2C%20Electric%20Start%20Models/parts.html
Scot, I stared at the same chart all weekend. I just got off the phone with tech support. Here's what is going on:
Part 32 (with the two terminals is the starter solenoid). BOTH terminals are positive! When they returned my engine to me, the wire from the fuse box had already been bolted to the right terminal and that's why I thought it stayed there. I swapped the two wires when Buzz Maring mentioned that his were reversed. There was no difference. It still clicked away. Now, the diagram shows it on the left but it really doesn't make a difference. Here's how the wiring should go. The positive lead from the battery and the fuse box stay together; the thicker black wire (now bolted with the battery negative) goes on the other terminal (as it does now). The battery terminal needs to be bolted back there to the left on the engine block! If you look at the chart you and I were looking at, it shows the negative battery wire (the shorter one) just hanging off and attached to nothing. That nothing is supposed to be the block.
I really want to thank everyone for trying to help. It is most appreciated!!!!!!
Good, This was a mission that I thought about a lot. The problem is trying to figure out what someone else had done wrong and what wires were removed in the first place. Also just the one photo to work on and a not so great parts diagram that's not a wiring schematic that doesn't show what wires are pos. and neg. I was going to suggest finding someone else that has a 9.9 and take a look or go to a dealer or WM and look at one there. It wouldn't have to be the same year because they don't change the guts very often. lesson learned, If you have to remove more than one wire, Label them. Good luck! Edit.. If you had the neg battery wire attached to the solenoid and the pos. battery wire attached to the other terminal on the solinoid then you had a dead short across the solenoid. Its a good chance it got fried. So when you do straighten out the wires it still might not start.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Good, This was a mission that I thought about a lot. The problem is trying to figure out what someone else had done wrong and what wires were removed in the first place. Also just the one photo to work on and a not so great parts diagram that's not a wiring schematic that doesn't show what wires are pos. and neg. I was going to suggest finding someone else that has a 9.9 and take a look or go to a dealer or WM and look at one there. It wouldn't have to be the same year because they don't change the guts very often. lesson learned, If you have to remove more than one wire, Label them. Good luck! Edit.. If you had the neg battery wire attached to the solenoid and the pos. battery wire attached to the other terminal on the solinoid then you had a dead short across the solenoid. Its a good chance it got fried. So when you do straighten out the wires it still might not start.
Yeah, that crossed my mind. I'll find out next weekend. At least at $58, that's a small price to pay when it comes to the cost of anything boat related.
On my old lawn tractor, before I replaced the solenoid, I could touch both solenoid terminals with a screwdriver to start the motor, then get on and cut. I'm not recommending you do it (sparks, fire etc.), but if you do and the outboard starts, then you know it's the solenoid. Doesn't work on my new old lawn tractor (also in the shop with non-starting issues)due to the seat safety cut-off switch, unless I have someone sitting in it. Hopefully, it's JUST the solenoid. already bought a new battery.
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
quote: I could touch both solenoid terminals with a screwdriver to start the motor,
Yep, Old school trick. Basically jump/bypass the solenoid but I didn't want to suggest it do to the sparking and sometimes welding the screwdriver to the terminals. If your not expecting it, It can be startling.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Great news. I corrected the wires and she fired right up. The solenoid survived my mistakes. And yes, I snapped a picture for future repairs. Again, all. A big thank you!!!!!!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.