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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
141 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/18/2015 :  22:12:22  Show Profile
Greetings all, more newbie questions, I'm getting closer to stepping the mast for the 1st time but as I gather everything together (the boat came with a brand new back-stay) when I look at it, it has the main wire which I'm assuming attaches to the rear plate but it has a 2nd smaller wire as well - what is that for? I don't see any mention of it in the owners manual.

Also - an unrelated question does anyone know of a replacement mast-winch mount? My original teak one is cracked - worst case I could make one. What do you folks use? CD no longer carries that part.

Main sheet line, the owners manual calls for 75' of 3/8 - that seems a bit much to me, again what do you folks use. I take it, it should be a high-quality line?

and more, I've a CDI furler which says 1/4 line max for the drum - do most of you control that from the cockpit? where/how do you run the line ? Is any side preferable?

The PO had 1/2 line for the 150 jib, my newer jib is a 135, I was going to use the same line but find it impossible to un-loop the connection to the old jib. Is it acceptable cut the line and knot it to a ring or fitting to be connected to the new jib? -or- should I just go for new line? What size?

Thanks in advance

Jan

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3367 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2015 :  04:24:13  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage
If you are talking about the pig tail connected to the backstay, that is a wire attached to the backstay about 5-6' from the end of the backstay and this small wire is about a foot or so long. That is for connecting the boom when leaving the boat for the day.

Main sheet and jib/genoa sheets - I believe I pretty much stuck with the dimensions listed in the manual. The main sheet at 75' long is a bit too long but....I decided that even if it was a bit long, say by 3-5', it was not a big deal just maintaining the same length specified in the manual. I used Sampson XLS Extra T which is a low stretch line. It is probably overkill but that's what I wnet with and I have been satisfied with it.

You indicated that you would like to re-use the old line but cannot undo the knot - Try using a marlinspike which you find on rigging knives besides the main blade. It will assist in undoing tight knots and not damage the line in the process. If you cannot undo the knot, my thought is that I would rather go with a continuous line knotted/looped at the Jib/Genoa rather than knot two lines to the Jib/Genoa. As it is, when you tack, the knot or knots usually hang up on the side stays and I would rather only deal with the one knot/loop. Also, I like the idea that it is a continuous line with basically no chance of becoming undone or become worn. The Jib/genoa flaps a round a lot and having two lines attached with knots...probably unlikely they would ever come undone...but no chance with a continuous line. Probably more of a superstitious thing than any concern with knots unraveling. You know...if the jib/genoa line is more than say 6 years old....and looks old...maybe just spruce up your boat a bit and get a new line....then again...it is going to cost you a good bit to replace that line.. Rcmd check Defender's costs versus West Marine when contemplating buying long lengths of line. Usually, West marine is a lot more money unless they are running a sale.

I control my CDI furling line from the cockpit port side. I have a cleat there and have some small blocks up near the bow that help lead the line along the port side. See below...but not a good picture showing the one small block I have on the port side.


Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 05/19/2015 04:25:12
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2015 :  04:52:18  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by JanS48

The PO had 1/2 line for the 150 jib, my newer jib is a 135, I was going to use the same line but find it impossible to un-loop the connection to the old jib. Is it acceptable cut the line and knot it to a ring or fitting to be connected to the new jib? -or- should I just go for new line? What size?

I'd cut off the old line and replace it with 3/8" jibsheets. I only use 7/16" jibsheets on my 35' boat. Half inch line is way too big and heavy. It will weigh down the jib too heavily, so that it won't lift and fly nicely in lighter air.

Whether you keep the new jibsheet as one continuous line, or cut it in two and tie it on with bowline knots or some other knot is mostly a matter of preference. I use two separate jibsheets and tie them on with bowline knots. That's the way most people do it, including most of the racers that I sail with, and it's functional, and it's also easy to untie and remove them whenever you wish.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2015 :  07:57:26  Show Profile
That second wire on the back could be for the topping lift. Mine was a tiny wire swagged at both ends that came down about 2' above the end of the boom where there was line attaching it to the boom with a block cleat. I removed that for a block at the masthead and ran the topping lift back to the cockpit.


Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
141 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2015 :  21:52:23  Show Profile
Thanks so much for the comments guys. Steve - what length is the drum furler line?
Also have a question regarding the furler, Is it absolutely necessary to have special halyard with the travler type fitting that slides down the luff? Is there another option?

Thanks again
Jan

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2015 :  22:16:01  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by JanS48

Steve - what length is the drum furler line?

You can find a copy of the CDI installation manual at this hyperlink. It discusses how to establish the length of the furling line on pages 10-11. The length of the line depends on the size of your largest jib.

http://www.sailcdi.com/sailpdf/FF4&6%20manual%207_06.pdf

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2015 :  11:30:01  Show Profile
I'm a fan of single-braid rope for sheets, both main and genny. It is comfortable to handle, more flexible, doesn't tend to kink as much as double-braid, and lies nicely on a cockpit seat or wherever. It isn't as low-stretch, but that's not as important for sheets as for halyards. An example is New England Ropes Regatta Polyester. 3/8" is nice.

I suspect the knot you can't untie is a "cow hitch"--commonly used with a single, continuous sheet on a jib. It's a loop pushed through the clew, with both ends fed back through the loop--simple and clean, but it tends to tighten until it's almost impossible to break, even with a marlinspike. Two bowlines (with two separate sheets) is a simple option that can be untied. I used a cow hitch, and swore at it once ever few years when I wanted to remove it. The "soft shackle" is a neat idea for sheets that need to be removed frequently, but I suspect it can hang up more on a shroud than most knots.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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RAG Sailor
Navigator

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USA
144 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2015 :  15:45:07  Show Profile
I was like you...what the heck do I need all of this mainsheet for? Especially when you have 4 people on board, there's not a lot of room. Well, I went ahead and let out the main sail as far as I thought it would ever go out and saw that there was about 10' I didn't need and cut it at that point. Fast forward to the next weekend. This time we had a good stiff wind (and I being the newbie sailor and forgot to put my figure 8 in) and the sheet pulled totally out of the block. Had I not cut it, I would have been able to retrieve it in tack.

I waited for a sale at Defender and bought this: Samson Trophy Braid 75' (3/8) @ $0.78 = $58.50. I did a lot of research. I also had Samson send me rope samples so I knew exactly how it would feel as I had bought a used boat and wasn't the original owner. As you know (or may not know), over time and exposer to water and sun your rope changes. Though my original was probably Trophy Braid, I had no idea and I wanted to make sure I bought a rope that was comfortable in my hands for the way I sail. Don't be afraid to contact Samson (you'll find them on the web) or any of the other brands and ask them to send samples. They all do. Good luck! Oh, BTW, I went from faded blue to bright red. It snazzed up the cockpit!

Good to be back at sea!

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2015 :  21:06:52  Show Profile
Yes you MUST us the special CDI halyard or else the line will come out of the extrusion, I tried to do without it and it does not work.

Frank Hopper
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