Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I opted for a do-it-myself system that has worked great and cost about $25 or so. I used 1/8" line, 5 eye straps and 4 stainless steel rings. I think I started with 50' of line. It's simple when you see it, but almost impossible to explain in words how it's rigged. I'm having trouble uploading the diagram, but I'd be happy to send it to you via email. Let me know if you want it: solomonfsmith@gmail.com.
Here's an attempt (the lines described mirror each other on either side of the mast and boom): Line A attaches to the mast on each side with eye straps, about a foot below the spreaders, and is tied to a ring. When it's loose, the ring hangs about four feet above the gooseneck. Line B is one continuous line, cross-threaded through an eye strap under the boom about a foot forward of the aft end of the main. A loop at the midpoint of the line hangs down from the eye strap about a foot. From the eye strap, line B goes diagonally upward, toward the mast, and is threaded through the rings on line A, which is pulled diagonally downward toward the aft end of the boom. Line B hangs straight down from the Line A rings to about three feet above the boom, near the midpoint of the main sail. Each end of line B is tied to a ring. Line C is attached under the boom with eye straps about a foot aft of the boom, runs through the Line B rings, and attaches with another eye strap under the boom about halfway between its forward eye strap and the line B eye strap. When pulled tight by the loop in Line B near the aft end of the boom, the whole rig forms a web that catches the main. When the tension is released on the loop, the web loosens for sailing and doesn't affect sail shape. I put a small snap shackle on the loop and clip it to the boom bail to tighten the rig for lowering the main.
Whew! That's even worse than I thought. But it really does work and is cheap to rig.
Solomon Smith TANGO 89/WK/TR/#5942 Petoskey, Michigan
Yes. I let (paid) the yard to install mine. They work great as long as they are set not too loose and not too tight and the main slugs come down the mast well. I use "Fast Track" each year.
Since I single hand they were the last piece of the puzzle. With roller furling and all lines coming back to the cockpit I can raise the main, unfurl/furl the the jib, reef the main, and now drop the main without leaving the cockpit. But I do go running to the bow to pick up the mooring wand upon returning home. In a blow that can be quite comical.
arwen had a harken system by the PO. It worked. I thought it was more trouble then it was worth. the main isn't that large anyways. bunch of lines always in the way. I think if I was to do over on EOWYN, I would run lines from spreaders instead of the top of the mast. It would at least keep the lazyjacks from snagging the main as it went up.
I did not have lazy jacks on my C25. The Gemini has lazy jacks and the current configuration works, but I think the design could be better. I have looked at this design and might try to recreate it, I like the fact the lines can be brought down and moved out of the way; EZjax:
Many folks complain about full battens getting caught up when raising the mainsail. They then spend a lot of time moving BOTH sides of the lazy jacks to the mast.
We developed an easier way with our lazy jacks.
We have a small cleat on the forward starboard side of the boom. When we put the halyard on the headboard, we move ONLY the starboard side of the lazy jacks forward and snug them under the forward side of the horn of this cleat.
Then, when we raise the mainsail, instead of going exactly head to wind, we bear off a tad to starboard so the wind is coming from the port side of the bow.
We then raise the mainsail and it doesn't get hooked on the lazy jacks even though the port side jacks are still there.
Been working for 16 years.
Yes, we have to go forward again to unhook the starboard lazy jack for dousing the sail if I forget to do it right when the main is raised, but there's never any hurry. The drill is: after the main is raised, I unhook that starboard lazy jack, so they're both ready to go when we drop the sails at the end of the day.
So, for those of you with lazy jacks, consider doing only one side.
Your boat, your choice.
C:\Users\Stu\Stu\Boat\Lazy Jack Trick.doc
Stu 1986 C34 #224 "Aquavite" Cowichan Bay, BC Maple Bay Marina (formerly San Francisco) (formerly C25 #2459 "Capricorn Two")
I had a Harken system installed on my C&C 35 and think they're worth having on a bigger boat with a bigger mainsail, especially if you sail on a big lake or bay that can get rough. I didn't have them on the C25, because I sailed on an inland lake, which almost never got so choppy that it made it uncomfortable to go to the mast. Also, the C25 mainsail is still small enough that you can grab an armful of it, put it on top of the boom and put on a couple sail ties. I think their value to you depends largely on where and how you sail. It's never fun to go to the mast on a small boat in choppy seas.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
We've determined the right balance of tension in the LJs, and once set, never touched...no problem w/ full battens, just need to pay a bit of attention when raising the main - never an issue.
I had a Harken system installed on my C&C 35 and think they're worth having on a bigger boat with a bigger mainsail, especially if you sail on a big lake or bay that can get rough. I didn't have them on the C25, because I sailed on an inland lake, which almost never got so choppy that it made it uncomfortable to go to the mast. Also, the C25 mainsail is still small enough that you can grab an armful of it, put it on top of the boom and put on a couple sail ties. I think their value to you depends largely on where and how you sail. It's never fun to go to the mast on a small boat in choppy seas.
I sail on Albemarle Sound which can become very nasty. Also I sail allown and am 75 years old. No fun going forward in weather. Does anyone have the exact measurements of where I need to place The ends of the lazy jacks on the boom. I hope to use my existing sail cover. I would have a sail cover made if I knew the dimensions and fix the jacks to it. Ncbrew
1998 Catalina 250WK Ravaging Albemarle Sound,NC
I spent most of my money on boats and beer, the rest I just wasted.
I sail on Albemarle Sound which can become very nasty. Also I sail allown and am 75 years old. No fun going forward in weather. Does anyone have the exact measurements of where I need to place The ends of the lazy jacks on the boom. I hope to use my existing sail cover. I would have a sail cover made if I knew the dimensions and fix the jacks to it. Ncbrew
Depends what system you are using or creating, it will vary even with the same systems. If you are planning to cut a new sail cover you may want exact dimensions from your application, not from someone else who has mounted theirs at whatever location worked.
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
With lazy jacks they have to be adjustable enough to loosen them and pull them to the mast. Then you can use a standard sail cover. The alternative is a custom sail cover.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
The PO installed the system that CD sells and they work fine. I string up the lines after I remove the mainsail cover (standard cover) and then remove the lines after I dock and re-cover. The CD system (I think it is Harken) has two cables attached near the spreaders with a block on each end to carry the line.
John, I don't know if it would work in your mooring field, but I sometimes run a line outboard from the bow to the cockpit when I have to moor in a new location ( I have a slip at home) in touchy conditions so I can pass the line and walk it forward under control. I also sometimes use a line with a sliding snap shackle on the anchor rode to haul the anchor aboard in the cockpit when exiting might be difficult.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.