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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Bow Hardware Access

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c22sailor
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/07/2014 : 12:04:59

I wanted to add a small block and padeye on the port bow of my 2003 C250 to create a better fairlead for the furling line. It doesn't appear to be as easy as I had hoped. There is no access that I can see to even get to the bolts for the bow cleats, chocks, or stem plate. In the V-Berth there is a small access cover to get to the thru hull for the anchor locker drain and nothing else. Has anyone had to cut holes for access covers in the anchor locker sides to allow access to the deck hardware? In the meantime I lashed a small block for the furling line fairlead to the stemplate. It works much easier and will do for now, but I would like a more permanent mount for the block.

Edited by - on

CJRoxs
Navigator

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USA
114 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 12:42:40

My 1995 has an access port in the anchor locker.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 13:13:18

quote:
Originally posted by CJRoxs

My 1995 has an access port in the anchor locker.

As does our '97.

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 13:42:03

We used a stanchion mounted block.

Paul

Edited by - on

c22sailor
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 15:40:01

The area that provides the best fairlead is between the bow cleat and the chock. No stanchion close enough. Part of my problem, IMHO, is the furler itself. It is a Schaffer Snapfurl, and the furling line keeps jumping out of the drum because of the angle of the line to the drum. Really frustrating. I have to go to the bow in order to furl which defeats the purpose. I can see myself cutting some access cover holes in the near future!

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 16:07:09

What about considering using a spring loaded block and bolt it through the deck/hull flange at the desired 90 degree angle to the Sheafer Snapfurl...

Let me know what works since I'm facing an identical situation

a) Is your furler line going to be placed on the port or starboard side
b) Will the furler line/harware clear when opening the port side hinged anchor locker
c) Could a block be fastened to the port side stanchion?

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2269 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 19:25:32

Not sure why you need a block. It seems like overkill, and a toe stubber/trip hazard. The turning angle is so small that the stresses on the fairlead are very low. Just like plucking a guitar string takes much less force than the actual tension in the string. The low stress on the fairlead would allow for screwing into the deck instead of through bolts. My furling line path is directed by three fairleads looking more or less like this, each attached by screws into the deck core AFAIK:

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c22sailor
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2014 : 20:32:23

Rick. My furling line is run through bullseyes like you mention. The problem is the first bullseye is located at the aft end of the anchor locker, and does not provide a good angle for the line coming from the furling drum. When I try to furl, the line winds up on the top of the drum until it fills the drum and pushes outside the line restraint on the side of the drum. Zeil. My furling line is run on the port side. No problem with opening the anchor locker. A stand up block would be fine, but a little overkill perhaps as far as cost. A bullseye would be too wide to mount on the toe rail on the port side of the anchor locker where I intend to locate the block.

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2014 : 18:18:47

I had the same problem with my Snapfurl. The Snapfurl Rep., at the Tampa boat show, said that the furling line had to come out of the drum at 90 degrees or it would do exactly what you said. I mounted a small block on the port side exactly 90 from the drum. My large drafting square was ideal for the measure the angle, but I am sure a framing square will work as well. The block was for 1/4" line and was screwed to the deck. I have not had a problem in 10 years since making this mod. I don't think I have a picture to post, but I will look. Another mod was to mount a small block on the station left of the port winch so the General could use the winch to roll in the sail. In a stout breeze she did not have enough hand strength to roll up the sail. This also worked out great for her. There is no need to drill any large hole in the anchor locker. Here are pictures of the winch set up.

Edited by - frog0911 on 07/08/2014 18:34:14

c22sailor
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2014 : 19:48:25

Thanks frog. I will try to just screw the block to the deck and try it out. Worst case if I have to drill through the deck I can always cut the access hole later.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

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2269 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2014 : 19:54:49

quote:
Originally posted by c22sailor

Rick. My furling line is run through bullseyes like you mention. The problem is the first bullseye is located at the aft end of the anchor locker, and does not provide a good angle for the line coming from the furling drum.

Like others mentioned, you should get a t-square and determine the location that gives you a perfect 90 degree angle to the furler. This is critical. I've chartered boats that had the wrong angle, and it is a real pain having to go forward to manually guide the furling line, especially on a large boat. Best bring your leather gloves.

One concern with the block is that it may be higher profile than the bullseye. I have a feeling you will need the lowest profile possible to get the right angle. You should let that determine which hardware to get.

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 07/08/2014 : 20:55:50

Thanks Jerry... just to visualize the location of the small block a picture would be great... Johanna will like your stanchion mounted block as well

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 07/12/2014 : 09:18:58

Here are two pictures of the small block I used for my fuler guide. It is mounted 17" from the front of the bail or 19" on center. This is all based on the use of the SnapFurl. As you can see the block is only held down by to #6 screws. There should not be any up vector if mounted in the correct location. So get a small block two #6 or#8 screws drill two small holes, seal them and mount your block. The other fuler guide came on the boat when delivered. Sorry it took so long, but by the time I would get home in the evening it was pouring.

Edited by - frog0911 on 07/12/2014 09:30:31

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1297 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2014 : 20:36:11

Thank you Jerry... this exactly what I hoped you'd provide including the measurements... much appreciated

The 90 degree angle is clearly visible, however, I will double check carefully before proceeding.

Edited by - on

JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Response Posted - 07/23/2014 : 11:25:08

did the same, with a small spring loaded block - furler now works like a breeze (even in a stiff breeze)

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c22sailor
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 08/03/2014 : 12:30:03

Added the furling line block today. Furler is working much smoother now. :)

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.