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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Flushing trailer brakes

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/24/2021 : 17:48:10

What is the preferred method to flush the trailer brake actuator and lines. I have a DICO Aero-6000 actuator. I actually have a second one that I bought on Ebay a few years ago as a backup.
I haven't used the boat in almost 2 years due to moving and them my wife having medical issues. I checked on the boat today, did some cleaning, and then discovered that the brake fluid reservoir wa almost empty and there is rust in the reservoir. Should I just swap out the actuators and then worry about replacing the reservoir in the actuator I'm currently using.
I also saw today that the guy I bought the second actuator from still has a few he is trying to get rid of, current price is $40. Maybe I should buy a third one for a spare and scrap the first one.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2021 : 07:43:37

I rebuilt the surge brakes on my trailer about 30 years ago, and that's the limit of my knowledge of surge brakes, but in the absence of any other replies, this might be helpful.

If the fluid leaked out of the reservoir, there's a reason. The reservoir is really a brake master cylinder. Either it leaked, or the wheel cylinders leaked, or a brake line leaked. If you see no evidence of leaking at the wheel cylinders or in the brake lines, then the master cylinder must be leaking. If so, cleaning it won't stop the leak. You might be able to find a replacement for just the master cylinder, and replace just the master cylinder, but If you can get a whole new actuator for $40., that's what I'd recommend. That's a great price for the whole actuator. I recently replaced a master cylinder for a car and it cost over twice that.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2021 : 08:04:50

More like $78 with shipping and sales tax, but I think you are right. Replacement is the way to go.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1889 Posts

Response Posted - 10/25/2021 : 13:05:54

DavidP,

If you can get a new � or even usable � surge actuator for anywhere near $40, I'd suggest you start there.

I think replacement master cylinders and rebuild kits are available for all popular surge actuators. Shop around for best prices, I found they vary a lot.

Whatever you do about that, you'll need to bleed the entire brake system to replace the old fluid and flush out contaminants such as air, water, and rust. "Pumping the brake pedal" on a surge actuator isn't as straight forward as on a car, even if a willing assistant is handy. I found a pressure bleeder and catch bottle make flushing and bleeding ridiculously easy.

Motive Products pressure brake bleeder, about $50 to $55 from Summit Racing, Speedway Motors, Jegs, or Amazon:

Note that you will need to improvise a way to seal the pressure bleeder hose to the master cylinder reservoir. I ordered a spare filler cap and tapped it for a hose barb.

Matching Motive Products catch bottle, about $15, same vendors:

A commercially manufactured catch bottle is sort of optional, but I took the easy route, rather than make one. If you want to put together your own, the photo is pretty self-explanatory.

� Leon Sisson

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2021 : 17:18:02

I'll need to get one of the suction bottles, since I will likely be doing the actuator swap-out by myself. The actuator I bought on Ebay arrived today. It is a duplicate of the one on my trailer now, so the changeout should be doable. hopefully the bolt holes will line up. fortunately the new one that arrived is set up for disc brakes.
Some of you may already know this, but I read this morning (my bad for not knowing sooner) that drum brake and disc brake master cylinders are different. I was concerned that the new actuator would be set up for drum brakes and I had installed disc brakes on my original C22 trailer. At least on the Titan/Dico actuators (mine is Dico), the brake fluid pressures are different, disc operating at 1600 psi and drum at 1000 psi. The disc master cylinder is a bit stouter for the higher pressure, and the oriface at the fluid exit to the brake lines is different. I read this morning that, in an emergency, you could use a drum brake actuator with disc brakes, but you should NEVER, EVER use a disc brake actuator with drum brakes.
hopefully, when I remove the old actuator, i'll find a decal that says: for disc brakes only!

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - dmpilc on 10/27/2021 17:21:30

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/01/2021 : 05:36:07

I swapped out the actuator on my C22 trailer yesterday, delayed due to rain, slow and continuous for several days. Actual changeout didn't take long, remove 3 bolts, disconnect brake line, pull the old unit, reverse. After filling the master cylinder, I pumped the line for several minutes using a large screwdriver until the bubbles stopped. I'll go back in a day or two with a 2x4 to pump and hold the pressure on while I bleed the line at the wheels. Instructions say to loop the safety chains right below the ball receptacle, slide the 2x4 in the loop and use it, touching the ground, as a lever to push the tongue back simulating applying the brakes to pressurize the lines. Then loosen the bleed nut at the farthest wheel to let the bubbles out. Repeat as needed until no more bubbles. hopefully, I'll be able to get a friend to help. When I added brake fluid to the new master cylinder, I filled it all the way to the rim. Pumping with the screwdriver released bubbles and the level dropped about 1/8-3/16" before the bubbles stopped. This is the actuator:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233610316410?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233610316410&targetid=4581183927179149&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418233787&mkgroupid=1241348861725295&rlsatarget=pla-4581183927179149&abcId=9300542&merchantid=51291&msclkid=5e11659e78541c56ce6d04e1a70f7569

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - dmpilc on 11/01/2021 05:38:53

Dale V
Deckhand

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USA
9 Posts

Response Posted - 11/20/2021 : 11:42:23

I went thru this same scenario and it turned out to be the wheel cylinders. If there is rust in the master reservoir then you will have had water get down into the wheel cylinders. Got them off Amazon and they fit perfectly.

Dale Veldhuizen
1984 C25 SK/SR #4389 MtnCat
Lake Granby in Rocky Mtn Nat Park

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/21/2021 : 12:00:30

Thanks, Dale. We bled the brakes yesterday, had to loosen the upper plug a lot as the hole in the plug appeared clogged and I didn't want to remove it completely yet to clean it. Used the 2x4 method: cross the chains just below the ball receptacle, insert a 2x4 in the chain loop and use it as a lever to push back on the trailer tongue, helper holds it in place, then I go back and open the upper bleed valve. Had to add a little more fluid. I may do it one more time later, checking first if I need to top off the fluid again. If so, maybe there is a leak somewhere in the system. On grass parking, so checking for pavement stains is out of the question. Trailer hasn't been it the water or on the road yet, so the fluid is still clear and no rust in the master cylinder. sometime after the first immersion, I'll check for any signs of rust.

DavidP
1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52
PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess"
Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN

Edited by - dmpilc on 11/21/2021 12:04:40

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