Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am wiring a new panel from an original 1978 Catalina 25. I sniped the positives from the old panel and connected then to the new panel. The wires I sniped were on the switch side of the panel. I am only connecting the running and cabin lights.
When connecting what I think is the ground to the battery nothing is happening. Both lights worked before I sniped everything. Was wondering if all the positives get wired into the master switch? Are the wires I cut possibly all negative? Or if I need to find the correct ground that is not in the jumble of wires connected color coordinated to the non-bus side of the panel?
Holy Cow! That’s no fun at all. Electrical circuitry sometimes seems to be more magic than science.
It’s always smart to check that: 1. Your A-B-Both switch (if you have one) is set to the correct ON position; 2. Your main switch on the panel is turned on; 3. Your battery is indeed connected; 4. Your fuses aren’t blown. That’s easy to do especially when using a wire cutter. 5. Your negative cable (black) is connected to the battery.
Do you have the original switch panel and wire cables, or were things modified in the past?
If original, the switches are marked (Running, Cabin, Bow Light and Anchor Light) right on the panel.
These wires are connected directly to the backside of the marked switches and the wire insulations are color coded. RED :: Running Lights BLUE :: Cabin Lights ORANGE :: Anchor WHITE :: Bow Black and green are negative or ground wires. Negative wires always run back to the battery negative, so you can use a continuity test to make sure of a solid negative from the fixture to the battery.
To check whether a switched wire is energized (positive), get a digital multi-meter or voltmeter and set it to the 15 or 20 volt scale. For the black lead, get a 10-16 foot wire with alligator clips on both ends. Clip one end to the battery negative terminal and the other end to the meters negative or black lead. This will allow you to move around the boat to take measurements in different areas.
Then check each switch with the red lead. You should find a constant 12 VDC on one lead and the other lead of the switch should toggle between 12VDC and zero when you twiddle it.
If you don’t have power supplying the switch (constant 12 VDC) then something is wrong upstream (battery connection, panel main switch, power buss not connected.
If you have power at the switch but nothing at the lights, the circuit, fuse or connector might be bad or corroded.
If you have power up to the lighting fixtures, you could have a dead bulb, bad LED or an old skool polarized LED. The latter is one with a definite positive wire and a definite negative wire. I had some like that early on and I had to switch the leads going to the fixture or light bulb, otherwise N.G.
Lucky for you you can usually test polarity using a 9V battery. If the light doesn’t work both ways (+ to +, - to - and + to -), then you’ll have to rewire (swap +/- wires) on the fixture. The original Catalina cabin light fixtures were reversed so LED replacements often did not work (wired backward).
Your voltmeter is your friend in these cases. BTW, never measure continuity for an energized circuit (poof). And never measure amps, ever.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.