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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
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 Warped Hatch Boards
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john.adlam
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/22/2019 :  12:20:42  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm working through refinishing the teak on my new to me '81 and the hatch boards are slightly warped. I've seen worse on other boats but it's enough to make them slightly stick when closing the companionway.

Whatever protective coating was once on them has long since worn off. They are bare wood. I'm about to sand and refinish them but was wondering...

Does anyone know if it is possible to straighten or lessen the warping in these neglected hatch boards? I'm thinking if I'm going to do something about it, I should do it before I refinish.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

John Adlam
1981 C25 "Valley Girl" #2500 SR/WK
1982 C25 "No Stress Express" #3218 SR/SK

Boise, Idaho

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5236 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2019 :  13:08:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wet the concave side with steamy, wet towels. That should make that side swell. But don’t overdo it.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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john.adlam
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2019 :  15:28:36  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

Wet the concave side with steamy, wet towels. That should make that side swell. But don’t overdo it.



Thanks Bruce. I'll give it a try. Has to be better than paying nearly $600 for a new set

John Adlam
1981 C25 "Valley Girl" #2500 SR/WK
1982 C25 "No Stress Express" #3218 SR/SK

Boise, Idaho
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Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2019 :  20:47:15  Show Profile  Visit Lee Panza's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Voyager

Wet the concave side with steamy, wet towels. That should make that side swell. But don’t overdo it.


Here's another suggestion:

If the hatch boards have adopted this cupped shape in the present condition of temperature and humidity, reshaping them with damp towels might be temporary help but your could still wind up with the same problem after they are "sealed" with a finish coat. They would temporarily flatten out, and they might retain that shape for a while after refinishing, but they could return to the present shape eventually (although they would be prettier).

You would be better off, in the long run, if you plane-down the edge regions to fit the channels first. Once they can slide in their present condition you can be assured that they will always slide, even after the ambient conditions reestablish the present shape. Clear finishes - whether oil, varnish, or epoxy - all allow varying degrees of permeability to moisture, and none of them protect against temperature fluctuations.

Since you've indicated that you intend to "...sand and refinish them..." do yourself a favor and at least sand the edge regions more aggressively than the rest of the face areas. On the flat sides you could get away with feathering the sanding beyond the edge areas out into the faces, and on the rabitted (rebated) sides you could wrap coarse sandpaper around square sticks to grind down the concavity at the top and bottom.

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)
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