Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
On our c250 tone of the hinges on the port laz needs reattaching to the boat. I would simply put a bolt through and attach with a lock nut but the other side is a completely sealed compartment.
I could use the next sized screw and hope that holds with epoxy. I could add the next sized screw and epoxy the hinge to the boat (lame move) in case the hinge fails some day....
It's been quite awhile since I did it and it's held up good but I could reach the back of the aft hinge by crawling head first part way through the aft bulkhead. It was tight. I used a small saw and cut a round hole in the liner to reach the back of the forward hinge and then installed a screw in deck plate in the liner. Installed larger bolts, lock nuts and large washers for the hinges. If I recall correctly I also cut, drilled and installed wood backing for the hinges.
Do you have any clues on how Catalina did it? Is this an exterior mounting exposed to weather so bedding is required? I can't see what you're describing, but guessing Catalina attached the hinge after the fiberglass was assembled... Molly bolt? Toggle bolt? Some other sort of sleeve? (If any of those, make sure they're stainless.) If it's with self-tapping screws, that's (obviously) not a good way to mount something in fiberglass if it moves and stresses the mounting.
Some installations on the older C-25s were done with bronze plates glassed inside before assembly, and then drilled and tapped afterward so only a bolt was used to attach something (like a gudgeon). Of course, if the threads eventually stripped in the bronze, then something else had to be done, sometimes requiring cutting and installing an inspection port.
I have heard of epoxying a bolt into fiberglass after coating the bolt with melted wax, so that after the epoxy sets up the bolt can be removed, leaving perfectly formed threads in the epoxy. It's probably more secure than threads in ordinary fiberglass, but I've never done it and wouldn't trust it for a hinge.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Is there enough room or depth to drill out the hole to accept a knurled threaded insert? If you drill out the hole to ensure a snug fit, you can epoxy or krazy glue the inserts in place. The knurled texture usually helps to bite into the fiberglass backing.
POP RIVETS! Of course.if they dont work then i can try something else. I was looking for a solution that someone had actually Used.. Thank you! And thanks to everyone129395.
quote:Originally posted by DavidCrosby
I had the same problem a few years ago. I easily resolved this with pop rivets.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.