Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Continuing the discussion from another thread... how long does it take for each coat of Poli Glow to dry? I wanted to try and apply it this weekend but we're supposed to have some off and on showers this weekend.
On average how many coats does it usually take to get good coverage?
How many coats can one get from a bottle?
Also, do you apply it to the smooth areas on the coach top (not on non-skid)?
Each coat dries about as fast as you can start the next on the same side. You only need to stop to rest. I recall doing 5 coats on one side in about 45 minutes. I did the whole boat (5 coats) with one bottle, with a little left over. I only ever used it on the hull. I’d be wary about rain—PG is water soluble until it sets up, so a sudden shower could mess up a little bit of your work.
Be aware the first coat almost vanishes... the second looks streaky... the third less so... the fourth very good, and the fifth makes you proud! A yard worker was paste waxing a boat next to where I was doing doing a dress-coat one spring—I was done before she finished the transom. She was envious!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
GaryB, the most important prep with PolyGlow is to remove every "imperfection" in the hull because it will still persist under 5 coats! The supplied PolyPrep does a good job on that. I agree with Dave on what it looks like after each coat - so be prepared. After the 5th coat you can use the hull as a mirror. When I used it, each coat was dry on the first side by the time I finished the second side. (Our Texas sunshine sure helps). After a year or so, you can apply a refresher coat after washing the hull well with soap and water.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
Thanks all for your comments! Rob and Seth... WOW! They look like new!
Hoping I can do mine this weekend but now they say we have a 70% chance of rain Saturday and we're going to my grand-daughters recital on Sunday so not sure if it's going to happen.
What should I do about the sides of the cabin where the gelcoat is smooth?
In harsh climates be ware of using it on top sides. I did a small test and was glad I didn't do the whole thing. Also pay attention to recoating. If it looses it's uv protection it can go bad. It did that to me and I pretty much had to wet sand it off. I put it back on though. Great product for a tired hull.
In harsh climates be ware of using it on top sides. I did a small test and was glad I didn't do the whole thing. Also pay attention to recoating. If it looses it's uv protection it can go bad. It did that to me and I pretty much had to wet sand it off. I put it back on though. Great product for a tired hull.
Not sure I follow. What about the harsh environment created the problem? What was the problem?
You might want to try their Strip product next time--might be easier on the gelcoat.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
So this weekend is going to be the big weekend... I read the directions on the bottle but still have questions.
1. How easy does the Poli Prep clean the hull of wax and dirt? (I noticed my hull has some areas that show swirl marks from where the wax has worn off since I had the hull cleaned and waxed a little over a year ago). 2. What's the best way to apply the Poli Prep? 3. Should I use a bottle with a trigger or a pump sprayer? 4. I assume I do a small area at a time? 5. When applying the Poli Glow is it best to use the mitt or the applicator that appears to go on the end of a handle?
I used the applicator on a broom handle--good for a fin-keel hull on the hard. Keep the coats thin, avoiding drips--as said before, be patient--by five coats you'll be pleased--you might want to do six. You just go around and around and around... the boat. You're done, and I mean DONE, before you can imagine. Next year, one "dress coat" should be all you need, except in spots where fenders, for example, have worn through.
I'd be reluctant to spray Poly Prep on--it's pretty harsh stuff, and could affect your bottom paint (not to mention your lungs). I think I used to apply it with a fine Scotch-brite pad, using rubber gloves. What do the instructions say?
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Wear a harness and clip in. I just question whether you'll be able to see what you're doing. If you have finger docks on both sides or are working from a dinghy, then yes. From you're own deck....
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I've got 3' or 4' wide, full length floating finger docks on both sides. My slip is 12' wide x 30' long so I was planning on adjusting the lines so I could get the hull near one side of the slip and then adjust accordingly as needed to keep it within arms length.
Above you mentioned you would be reluctant to spray it on but mentioned using a scotch-brite pad. Does that mean you just sprayed or poured the Poli-Prep on the pad?
GaryB, the easiest way to do it in the slip is to take the main halyard (with another line tied to it to extend it) a couple of slips over around a creek and then haul on it - sort of a semi-careen. If you move the boat close to the slip before doing this, it makes it easy to access all of the topsides (that's the hull, not the deck!) I bought the kit from PolyGlow and it came with a chamois and a block as an applicator. BTW the PloyPrep does a very good job of cleaning the hull and especially gets all the oxidation off.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
Above you mentioned you would be reluctant to spray it on but mentioned using a scotch-brite pad. Does that mean you just sprayed or poured the Poli-Prep on the pad?
Sorry--that was a lot of years ago... (I also can't remember how many. ) BTW, Derek's halyard idea, which I would liken to "kedging", would probably make it easier to work down along the boot stripe--Poly Glow can make that look better, too.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.