The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi Henk, I can almost tell what the picture is of. Seems like a stainless steel gizmo that is screwed onto the tiller handle about 1/2-way down that has a brake (the black knob and SS shaft) and holds the tiller stationary. Canít tell whether the line is stretchless (like halyard line) or stretchy like bungee line. I ask because my home-made tiller tamer has some give to it (maybe +/- 4į) that allows the tiller to auto-correct my direction somewhat based on weather-helm variations. A solid brake with no slack will not auto-correct and will give you no more than 15-20 seconds before youíre off course. My approach is not an auto pilot but the feedback loop will keep me on course for 1-2 minutes if I set it right. And it costs about $10 for parts. Iíve posted my photos in the past and can do so again if interested.
My approach, which I first saw years ago on Trailersailor.com and used on two boats, was very simple and functional as tamers go... It was shock cord with a loop on each end that went on the stern cleats, and then the cord was wrapped around the tiller 3-4 times. To disengage it, I gripped and slid the wraps aft on the handle, slackening the cord. To engage, slide them forward. To make a slight adjustment, grip the wraps and turn them one way or the other. To make a course change (including tacking), push or pull the tiller, stretching the cord, then release to hold course again (probably requiring adjustment to the new point of sail). Total cost: ~$15.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic, CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, ex-USCG-OUPV Now on Eastern 27 Sarge (but still sailing when I can). Passage, Mystic, and Sarge--click to enlarge.
Henk -- FWIW -- for simple, something like what Dave described would be the way to go. For reliable, a true tiller autopilot is the way to go. May cost a little more, but needs less (not none) supervision.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct
I'm with Dave on this one. A 6' bungee cord is the way to go - inexpensive, easy to set and remove, works well - and you can still use a tiller cover without the hassle of having to dismantle/re-install a piece of equipment.
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
quote:and you can still use a tiller cover without the hassle of having to dismantle/re-install a piece of equipment.
Not sure what you mean. I have a tiller tamer and just like the bungee cord I just disconnect the two lines from a pair of clam cleats then wrap the two lines around the tiller and slide the cover on over the lines, tamer and tiller. What I do like about the tamer is that you can set the drag once just enough to hold the tiller in what ever position you want then let go. No need to loosen,tighten,slide or twist anything for the rest of the day.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
You guys are fortunate that kind of static tiller control works for you. I have a way to lock my tiller in place, but it is largely useless on a Capri 25. The boat is so light any small wave will knock you off course and require immediate adjustment.
Thatís why the small amount of play in my home made approach, or Daveís bungee approach, works so well - negative feedback. If the tiller is locked rigidly in place then itís absolutely sure to be wrong by a small amount and very shortly the error builds up and youíll be off course. With some wiggle, the boat will start to turn but the negative feedback will compensate and bring the boat back on course - then overshoot, which adds more negative feedback the other way and rights the course, hence averaging out the variations. Itís a little magic and it doesnít always work, but if you get just the right touch, itíll keep you on course for a minute or two, sometimes longer.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.