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 Where is the impeller?
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HappyNow
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/08/2019 :  11:23:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have a 1999 Honda 9.9 outboard, probably original to the boat. Runs great. Getting ready to change the oil and filter. I have had the boat three years, always in fresh water before that. No where in the instruction manual or the online instruction manuals is there any reference to the impeller. Does this engine have one? Anyone know where it is? I'm getting a little worried since I know it hasn't been changed for at least 4 years.

Michael Levin
Sailin' on Sunshine
C250 #402 WK
Lake Tahoe

Kim Luckner
1st Mate

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USA
90 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2019 :  12:33:33  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes there is an impeller. I have a pdf file describing how to change it on my 2003 8hp Honda. I'm guessing they'd be similar or the same. It's not difficult to do if you have a little mechanical aptitude. Send me an e-mail and I'll attach the file.


Seeadler
'79 C25 SR/FK #1432
Mentor Lagoons
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Davy J
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1480 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2019 :  15:32:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This guy might have the info you seek:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8mdRQGEkO8




Davy J


2005 Gemini 105Mc
PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK
Tampa Bay
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HappyNow
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 05/08/2019 :  17:27:09  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
YES!! Thank you both. The you tube is excellent and Kim sent me the PDF. Tomorrow I learn a new boat skill. They did not make that impeller easy to get to.

Michael Levin
Sailin' on Sunshine
C250 #402 WK
Lake Tahoe
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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
173 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2019 :  14:20:26  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Happy fall everyone.

I am winterizing and wish to change out the impeller on my Honda 2006 9.9 (BF9.9A) and have a few follow-up questions after reading this thread.

First, Michael, how did it go when you did yours?

Second, with the long shaft, I assume I remove the *lowest* portion of the shaft (there is a mid-section between the lower unit and power head which, I assume, simply extends it to be a long shaft). Correct?

I watched the video linked by DavyJ. It seems so easy. Michael, was the video applicable to your 1999 Honda when you got into it?

I also found this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sfwxy2a--A

Is it closer in design to our motors? Is that white lithium grease he is spreading around?

Also, Kim, is that PDF of yours applicable to my motor and, if so, can I get a copy?

Thanks all!

Dale

I also found

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1983 Vagabond 14
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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4430 Posts

Response Posted - 11/12/2019 :  15:16:52  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dale, Just a word of caution. If it’s been awhile since the lower unit has been removed, the aluminum and stainless steel pins will “fuse” together and that will make an average-difficulty repair into a potential nightmare.

I found the 6 or 8 bolts and nuts, I unscrewed them, then I expected the piece to fall off into my hands. Didn’t budge.

Then I wiggled the bottom unit. It didn’t wiggle.

Then I pulled on it on one side, then the other. No way man.

Got a rubber mallet. Gave it a few love taps. Nuh-uh.

A thin blade knife to wedge it in the seam. Went a little way in, but I noticed the aluminum case bent a little. I worked it around the perimeter. Nothing.

After a lot of trying and broken blades I got a little progress on one side, then on the other. I spent a few hours prying, cajoling, twisting, boinking and fiddling with the piece.

Once I got the part off, the impeller was missing some vanes. I also noticed that the impeller housing (drawn stainless steel) was worn and had a bad edge. So I replaced both. I also checked the bearings in the drive rod. They were solid (no jiggle) so I greased them up and reinserted the rod.

Putting the bottom unit back together I added some “never seize” gunk to the nuts, bolts and pins.
The next time I replaced the impeller that move really paid off.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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HappyNow
1st Mate

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72 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2019 :  09:23:08  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My project went ok, after watching the video. Turned out the impeller was in perfect condition, maybe because the boat is in such clear water. The lower unit came off easily, just 4 bolts. Biggest mistake I made was turning the connecting nut between the lower and upper shaft linkages in the wrong direction. I turned it on to the lower linkage, and it was a real pain to get back on to the upper linkage. This was complicated by the fact that it is threaded in the opposite direction than usual to go back on to the upper rod. This appears to be critical in the process, so turn that nut in the opposite direction (counter clockwise ) to get it on to the upper shaft when disconnecting. I had trouble getting the gears to mesh when putting the lower unit back on. I called the mechanic who made the video, found him by googling the name of his boat shop. Arkansas maybe. Super friendly guy, told me he has the same problem sometimes, and just keep wiggling it, or walk away and come back later. That worked. Also make sure you get the water coolant discharge back into the little slot when replacing the lower unit. Takes two people to put it back together. Good learning experience.

Michael Levin
Sailin' on Sunshine
C250 #402 WK
Lake Tahoe
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HappyNow
1st Mate

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72 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2019 :  09:38:12  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That second video you found is good. Maybe I have the direction of the linkage nut incorrect, but its critical that it goes up on to the upper rod. I did not remove the engine from the boat, just did it while it was on the trailer. In the video, there is a small wedge that he greases and puts back in and holds with a needle nose to put the impeller over. That part was not present on mine. Make sure you note the direction of the wings on the impeller before you remove it so the new one goes on in the same direction.

Michael Levin
Sailin' on Sunshine
C250 #402 WK
Lake Tahoe
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3676 Posts

Response Posted - 11/13/2019 :  13:00:25  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
with the long shaft, I assume I remove the *lowest* portion of the shaft

Dale, Yes just the lower section that has the prop.
quote:
there is a small wedge that he greases and puts back in and holds with a needle nose to put the impeller over. That part was not present on mine

That is a Key-way. some models have them and some have the flat spot on the shaft. The videos are somewhat generic.
quote:
I had trouble getting the gears to mesh when putting the lower unit back on.

Just turn the prop and that will turn the shaft so the splines on the shaft will line up and drop in.
quote:
Is that white lithium grease he is spreading around?

Looks like it but any grease will do. I use marine wheel bearing grease. The grease in the cup is only there for a few seconds to give the impeller lubrication until the water hits it.

Here is a tip, when loosening the smaller jam nut just break it free but don't turn it then screw the bigger barrel nut up the upper rod until the rods disconnect. When you go to put it back together just screw the bigger barrel nut back down the lower rod until it hits the jam nut then tighten them together. By doing this the shift adjustment will be back as it was and won't be changed and your Forward-neutral-reverse will be as it was and won't need adjusting.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound



Edited by - islander on 11/13/2019 13:02:12
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dalelargent
Navigator

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USA
173 Posts

Response Posted - 11/23/2019 :  15:27:51  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Go my parts for the job, and other winterizing duties, and decided today is the day. Decided to start with the impeller.

First step: disconnect the shift linkage. Cool. Jam nut easily broke free and turned. I did so just one thread as suggested above.

Time for the barrel nut. It won't budge in either direction. No visible corrosion. Doh! I am stopped dead on the first step.

Guess I am going to try penetrating oil. It will be hard to get it to wick uphill, though.

Suggestions?

1989 c25 WK/TR #5838
1983 Vagabond 14
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3676 Posts

Response Posted - 11/23/2019 :  17:40:06  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dale, The only thing I can think of as to why the barrel nut won't turn is corrosion. I've never had it happen to me so hopefully penetrating oil will help. The barrel nut works just like a turnbuckle. Turn it one way and the 2 rods move apart. Turn it the other way and the 2 rods get pulled together. So what it does is lengthens or shortens the entire rod assembly. Put the shift lever either in forward or reverse to move the barrel nut up or down so you can get some oil on the upper part of the nut.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound



Edited by - islander on 11/23/2019 17:47:38
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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4430 Posts

Response Posted - 11/24/2019 :  06:57:56  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Dale, I looked up my Honda 8 long shaft engine on boats.net and found the exploded view of the shifter rod #13 and barrel nut #12.

https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda/outboard-by-year/2003/bfp8d3-xra-vin-baaj-1200001-to-baaj-1299999/water-pump-vertical-shaft-ul-size

Your engine might be a different year but similar. You can navigate the website to identify your model and year.

It’s possible that the barrel nut was over tightened somehow in the past. I’d use penetrating oil like PB Blaster and a little heat from a heat gun (not a butane torch) since you could unintentionally melt something nearby.

Also use extreme care when trying to free the barrel nut otherwise you might crimp or snap off the rod. Do you have a way to split the barrel nut? Dremel tool or nut splitter?

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 11/24/2019 07:01:03
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