The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi all, I have a 2006 Catalina 250 WK I purchased in October (2018), and I bought it knowing it needed the head replaced. The PO sold it to me with a brand new toilet in the box that he hadn't gotten around to replacing. It is a Jabsco twist-n-lock. Unfortunately the Jabsco he provided to me has a discharge with an elbow
My discharge hoses don't allow me the flexibility to connect to that elbow discharge since the Jabsco elbow discharge is pointing upwards, and the original toilet had a strait horizontal discharge.
2 - I could start re-routing the discharge hoses but I'm pretty scared to do this, and I think it would result in having to cut a hole higher up here or something, and quite frankly I feel like this is over my head .
3 - I could try and get some sort of fitting to take the elbow discharge back down. I'm afraid of doing this because it seems like the exit would be going upwards, back down, then straitening out, which sounds like a lot of fittings and chances for leaks. This is my crude drawing of what I'd need to do with fittings (in red) for the discharge
Islander, you are correct, you CAN flip it over, but unfortunately the angles in the picture are a bit misleading and that winds up pointing it too far down... so much so that there isnít enough room to get the hose on. A good and insightful suggestion though for sure!
TakeFive, I paid someone else to look at this for me and he said Jabsco didnít have a part for this (he recommended I replace the toilet outright), but I think it is worth me calling Jabsco and making sure... Iíll do that.
From the manual it can be rotated to discharge 360 deg. " Multi-angle discharge elbow for ease of installation".
"The Discharge Elbow (key 34) may be rotated 360į to suit your installation. Always slacken the 2 securing screws, adjust the discharge elbow to the required position and re-tighten the 2 securing screws before you connect the hose to it" If this doesn't get it straight or close You can heat the hose to make it flexible and be able to put a bend in it. A heat gun or hot water should do it.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Islander, I've taken this off and it does rotate, but only in 90 degree increments. so it can exit up, down, left, or right. As this image shows though, when it exits down, it is exiting almost strait into the floor. I think my issue is the inflexibility of those hoses... I wonder, could I replace those hoses with something more flexible? Is that an option, or do those hoses need to be rigid?
The sanitation hose really shouldn't be substituted cuz they are mmade to stop smells from permeating through. You can make them more pliable by warming them. I would give that a shot first before buying a new head.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
To answer the question about a rebuild kit for the old pump... that would have been a great idea, but I don't have the old pump, so... no can do there.
I'm headed to the boat this weekend... I've done all the research I think I can, and I think the Raritan Sani/Flex hosing is my best option... so i'm going to chop off a length of the existing hose, and replace it with the sani/flex hosing... from reading some other reviews and discussions on the Raritan hosing, it is pretty flexible, so i think that is pretty promising.
I'm curious about "splicing" those two hoses... Does this seem like a reasonable option to connect those two hoses?
FYI, I did wind up using the Raritan butyl saniflex hosing. I had to do some weird routing of the hose in order to make it work... I'll try and post pictures after this next weekend. Thanks for the help here. I'm not done with it yet (the hose is routed in a circle around the FRONT of the pump... so it is definitely a short term solution), but at least we can use it now, and it isn't leaking or putting any strain on the pump assembly.
So, this is my solution. Not elegant, but it allowed me to avoid bending the non flexible hose, and since I wasn't sure about drilling a 2.5" hole in the bulkhead behind it... it works. My plan is to drill a 2.5" hole to the right of the 2 smaller hoses, and then take the sani-flex hose directly out and through it and join it to the old hose behind the bulkhead.
Now that there is better photos I see your problem but It looks to me that you could cut the angle part of the tail piece off so it would be straight. Looks like there still will be enough room to slip the hose on. Is that possible?
From the photos I assume you have a vented loop in the water supply line. Not an issue, but why not move the water supply lines to the bottom opening and run your waste line through the upper opening directly from the Jabsco pump. You may need to add an elbow behind the bulkhead to continue the run to the holding tank but I suspect it may be in place already. If you have an access port it should be quite doable and a heat gun/hair dryer would make pulling the hoses off very easy...just don't get things too warm or you will distort the Jabsco fittings. A $20 ratcheting hose cutter from Ace or a big box store would also make fitting your waste line (multiple cuts) so much easier. Ignore everything I've said if you are way ahead of me....I'm just thinking out loud without really knowing what you are facing. Good luck.
I do have a vented loop in the supply line. That is a good thought about swapping the supply lines and waste line. The hole in the bulkhead for the supply lines is smaller, and is too small for the waste line, but could be enlarged slightly, which would be a lot less of an impact than drilling an entirely new hole. With that said, I'm not sure if the supply lines would bend down to go through the hole currently used by the waste line... but it is worth looking into. I could add elbows to the supply lines without any real impact I think, which might make that doable.
Islander, The discharge part coming from the pump is larger at first and then smaller where the hose slips over, so the actual area where you slip the hose over which is fitted to the 1.5" inside diameter hose, is actually fairly small... I wouldn't want to cut any off of it, and trying to fit a hose over the larger part and then reduce it in size seems like a mess too... so I don't think that would work. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Glivs, would this be similar to what you are talking about for cutting that hose?
Apparently there is no agreed to name (hose cutter, tubing cutter, PVC cutter, ...) so it's hard to search for but this is what you're looking for. I bought mine at Ace Hardware for the same price. The waste hose is not all that easy to fit so an incremental approach is almost needed. I cut mine initially to within 5-6", then within about 1-1.5" and then the final cut. Each cut allows you to get a better feel for how the hose will fit into where you want it to go. Again, a warm day or a little added heat may aid you. I'm sure obvious but don't forget to remove the Jabsco fitting from the pump (2 screws) before connecting it to the waste line .... maximize your degrees of freedom of movement and minimize stress on the pump ... you don't want to break something.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.