Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My boat has been 6+ years without bottom paint. I sail her on crystal clear mountain lakes (fresh water) and the bottom is spotless every year on haul-out.
By now, the bottom paint (ablative) is very thin. Do I care (other than my vanity in regards to cosmetics)?
Also, there are numerous spots where there is "chipped" paint. I understand the chipped areas are slowing me down, but I sail for fun and recreation and don't care TOO much about speed.
So, again, do I care?
Please see attached pics.
In the chipped pic, the blue is the top layer (paint). The bronze color is the next layer, the tan the lowest layer.
What are these other layers?
(sorry, the pic of faded paint is upside down, but you get the idea)
Looks like older non-ablative paint. Possible enamel paint as it looks hard. That also may explain why you don't have any blisters on the bottom either.
Oh- what lake do you keep the boat in?
Erik
Erik Cornelison 6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor. 1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234
The "tan" is probably the original white gelcoat that has discolored slightly. The rest appears to be layers of old antifouling. There are two main reasons to apply antifouling - to protect against barnacles and to deter algae growth. On your lake, neither is a concern. If you're satisfied with the boat's performance, there's no need to paint it. The only concern is that, when you sell the boat, the buyer will probably expect a price reduction for a bottom job, and stripping that old paint will be an expense unless you DIY. You might try scraping it with a putty knife or scraper, to see if it's loose. It looks like it might come off with a little effort.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
Bottom paint is also, to varying degrees, toxic to the critters and plants in your lake. Don't use it if you don't need it, saves money and the environment.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Yup--I was going to speculate that the topcoat was blue ablative, mostly worn away... The white and tan layers are hard paint (non-ablative), which always chip away like that, eventually. The "pink" appears to be gelcoat, although I haven't seen that color on a Catalina. It could be a barrier coat.
That she's that clean after a season in the water is remarkable (to me, anyway). Clearly you don't need protection from any kind of fouling. But there is another potential threat in fresh water: blisters, which are more of a threat there than in salt water. An epoxy barrier coat is the best protection from that, and you may already have it. Bottom paint is essentially ineffective for that problem. If you have no blisters, then I'd say the evidence is that you have a barrier coat. So, if you're inclined to remove the chipping paint, I'd try not to affect that "pink" layer. Fiberglass-friendly stripper is probably safe--I think it's pretty ineffective against a 2-part epoxy layer. Sanding is not a good idea--it can destroy the blister protection of both a barrier coat and the gelcoat.
But if you're concerned only with cosmetics and not performance (more on that shortly), you could buy a quart of ablative paint in the color you like and paint along the waterline and a foot or so below it. That's common practice. (Hard paint... well, you already see what happens to that.)
As for performance........ I'm sure you've heard the expression (and had the experience): "When there are two sailboats on the same tack on the same body of water, there's a race going on."
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
That was my first thought too Frank, but when I had Pearl stripped for a new barrier coat, it had a pinkish hue before the bottom paint wen on. You will certainly be able to tell when more of the old stuff is removed. A foot or so along the waterline might be a good use of VC-17 in a clean lake. That area is the only place Pearl gets any growth on Lake Erie.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Agreed VC-17 is a good option... It's a hard paint, but a thin film. Even if it eventually peels, it shouldn't make something that looks like Arizona's Monument Valley on your bottom.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I am confident that the pink is not bondo as there are several spots on the hull with identical peeling. (Seems to be where the hull has flexed a bit while traveling on the trailer rollers.)
I do think I will scrape what is easy, perhaps sand the edges a bit to (sort of) fair the hull, and paint the top foot or so. I am excited this means I don't have to deal with removing the trailer rollers or rolling the boat back!
O'Dell Lake is almost at the top of Willamette Pass in Oregon. High altitude and fed with mountain streams fed by snow melt (swimming in August is still quite brisk most years!). Parts are 600 feet deep as it was formed by the explosion of Mount Mazama (Crater Lake). Truly crystal clear water. Huge lake trout, bald eagles, and river otters. A magical place!
So, yesterday I ordered a gallon of WM PCA Gold Ablative as they were having a sale. Are there strong recommendations I switch to the VC-17? I feel very un-informed about this topic. I am confident I could return the West Marine paint...
...So, yesterday I ordered a gallon of WM PCA Gold Ablative as they were having a sale. Are there strong recommendations I switch to the VC-17?...
Not from me. If you were racing, then yes, but you just want her to look good. The ablative is compatible to go on top of just about anything, whereas VC-17 and other hard paints can't go on ablatives. But I'd avoid sanding. Your biggest threat in fresh water is blisters, and sanding can dramatically reduce the effectiveness of a barrier coat (the pink stuff?) and gelcoat to prevent them. Also, I've found that peeling hard paint doesn't "smooth out" very well--sanding just tends to peel it a little more, leaving new edges. You just don't want to paint over any loose stuff. To get to truly smooth, you pretty much have to remove it. But ablatives can be lightly sanded to look smoother.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
One other point to consider . . . . as your lake is so "sparkling clean" just check with local officials to make sure that one type or another of anti fouling paint is banned in the lake. My guess is that their is not such restriction, but stranger things have happened!
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.