Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
As suggested I am oppening a new thread for my bow challenge.
Previous feedback I initially posted on Jeremy Duckīs thread was: "Here you have some pictures of my "little" bow issue. Being told by the PO that it hitted the dock in a storm.
I have no experience with fiberglass so the strategy is:
(i) Learn from our forums, ask for support, comments & advice;
(ii) Ask for help, check. A close friend fellow sailor and fellow ultralight aircraft pilot has already took a look on it, got some of the materials but it was not possible to start today because of rain; will retry on the forthcoming days.
(iii) I will attend some lessons at the specialized glass store which will help me through the process; my idea is to start getting knowledge on the skills needed to fix my own boat.
I think I will also go for the Stem Fitting w/ Anchor Roller upgrade.
Will keep you posted, regards."
Thanks for your support on the other thread wich was:
(i) From Todd Lewis: "looks like it pulled out the bow eye during the storm." Actually not, the bow eye is around 4" below as you can see on the following picture:
And about the "whale eyes" mexican regulation: I actually donīt know, it wonīt be an issue if it is, but I always do my best to comply with the US regulations since I am clear are the proper way to go, and of course from what Iīve learned about it these days it is safer to have the lights on the bow rail.
(ii) From Dave Bristle: "UGGGGG-LY! But apparently not structurally significant. It looks like somebody already did some cutting around it, which may or may not be helpful. You'll probably learn in whatever you choose as a source that you'll need to taper the surfaces gradually outward around the hole on the outside, put at least one layer of woven roving across the hole on the inside, as a base, and then build back up with successively larger pieces of roving and a final layer of mat (the smooth stuff) in order to end up flush with the exterior with plenty of bonding surface to the original hull. Then there's the gelcoat discussion as you saw in this thread.
If there was a bow eye and it pulled through or was knocked out at that hole (I didn't have one, so I don't know exactly where it should be), I might suggest forgetting about replacing it. If you plan to pull her onto a trailer, replace the eye above or below that spot, in original material. You don't want that kind of stress on your repair.
As you get going, I'll suggest a new thread here so we know who this is about. Best of luck, and happy learning.
Hmmm... Now I see what looks suspiciously like a bolt hole at the top of the "big hole"--maybe the bow I was there. My advice stands.
And you might want to take this opportunity to glass in the holes where the "whale eyes" are and put a proper bi-color running light on your bow rail. The whale eyes are grandfathered as legal, but not legal on newer boats. So this is not important."
That bolt hole is actually the anchor locker drain which is really ugly but seems undamaged, shown with a wire in the following picture:
I will certainly glass the "whale eyes" and will go to the bi-color running light on the bow rail.
(iii) From Jeremy Duck: "I'll throw in my 2 cents on how I would approach this one.
-Cut the inner liner back far enough that its out of the way. -Cut out all of the damage and feather back the fiberglass to get ready for new layup. -Fill the bow with 2 part 4lb foam and then trim the foam back until you get the shape you want. -Lay on the new glass. Medium mat, epoxy resin with thickener. -Gelcoat -Finish up be removing the foam from inside the boat. It will probably need a few layers of fiberglass to tie it back into the liner if looks are important to you. -Install new bow eye.
If if you don't feel comfortable doing the glass work, getting it prepped and ready will cut your repair cost down. Prep is almost always the biggest part of the project.
Start a new thread for this one. Feel free to send me an email through the system and I'll send back my contact details if you want to have a convo on it.
Looks like the bow eye is still there, or least I'm seeing the blocking for it in the pictures.
The little hole above the damage should be the anchor locker drain."
Thanks for your support Jeremy I will write as needed.
(iv) From Scott: "Whoa...Hmmm, You might need TWO rolls of Duct Tape for this one... jduckoo is your go to guy. He did a similar repair."
Right, a couple of rolls and a new through hull between the hull layers. It is above waterline so no real worries.
Thanks once again and will keep you posted on my progress.
Victor Salcedo 1978 C25. #453. FK. SR. L. CTYK0453M78C
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.