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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1985 c25 swing keel. I Had my bottom painted 5 years ago with vc17 by the boat yard.. Im looking to repaint on my trailer myself.. has anyone ever attempted to paint the bottom then roll the boat back a foot on rollers to complete with success.. I would think if I raised my keel off trailer and set my bow winch with a foot of slack, I could roller back the boat a foot to complete painting. Can this be done with ease or am I looking for trouble. thanks for your input.
My extremely rough calculation suggests moving her back one foot could reduce your tongue weight by something like 350-400 lbs (reducing the weight forward plus increasing it aft of the wheels by 1/25 of the total). That could be way off... but suggests blocking up the back of the trailer and/or locking the tongue to your vehicle's hitch--probably both for overall stability. (In trying to move it 1', you just might end up going a little further.)
PS: The first time I tried that, with a much smaller boat, I got a little surprise!
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Just remember, I've been known to tell people more than I know.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I'm thinking with a come-along with a loop around a tree. (?)
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I was thinking the same thing but where would you hook to the boat? I wouldn't trust the stern cleats, No backing plates. Only little washers. That could result in some major damage.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I'm starting to rethink my process. What do you think about prepping what is exposed, painting,then setting the winch to about a foot in length , then backing into the water on my launch ramp. Pulling back out and finishing the project.. this process just seam to be safer.. my only concern would be that the cable on winch will hold well. I guess I could use my tie downs on stern for extra holding.. any other ideas out there that you have completed successfully?
I did mine last fall. On my trailer I could remove one pad at a time and paint under it. It was warm out so wait time between coats was only 1 1/2 hours.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
Your "launch" plan sounds good, but would require letting the areas dry thoroughly (I assume for VC-17) before painting. A towel would help...
I might also tie the tongue down tightly to the hitch (if possible) as a precaution.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Jeff, your original plan of using a come-along to a tree should work fine if you use a bridle of rope between the two aft deck cleats. The pull on those cleats will be horizontal, with both screws primarily in shear through a plywood and fiberglass base. Just position the come-along low enough so the two legs run down over the sides (with padding where they run over the aft-most ends of the T-tracks), rather than back along the decks where they will put lateral pressure on the vent cowls, and position the cable from the come-along close to the center of the bridle (with the come-along at the tree). With enough cable between the bridle and the tree the load will be essentially self-centering on the bridle. The force necessary to shift the boat should be only a few hundred pounds, split between the two cleats (assuming the roller shafts rotate freely - it would help to grease them with the boat off the trailer first). Nevertheless, stand BEHIND the tree as best you can while you pull on the come-along (make sure it's a big-enough tree) :-)
I did essentially your ramp method once, by hauling the boat onto the trailer and leaving it back less than a foot. When I winched the boat back up to it's fully-parked position I was surprised how easily it moved, and my roller shafts were dry, unlubricated. It was much easier to move on the flat than it is to haul it up from the water onto the mostly-submerged trailer.
When you do this the trailer needs to be anchored, naturally; leaving it hitched to your haul vehicle would be the easiest way.
The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.
Lee Panza SR/SK #2134 San Francisco Bay (Brisbane, CA)
The easiest way to paint under the rollers on a C25 is to unroll about 12-14" of the winch cable, put the tow vehicle in reverse, get it rolling backwards slightly, and then apply the brakes. The boat will roll backwards until it is stopped by the winch cable. You don't have to get it going very fast to roll it back. The idea is to do it gently. Try it first very slowly, and, if it doesn't roll back far enough, do it again. After you have painted under the rollers, just crank the boat forward on the trailer using the winch.
I painted mine that way for over 20 years with no problems. Just be sure your winch and cable are in sound condition. If you feel queasy about doing it, attach safety lines from the trailer to the bow cleats. The bow eye is an extremely strong point. I saw a person whose C25 rolled off the roller trailer in the parking lot, and he cranked it back onto the trailer using only the trailer winch attached to the bow eye.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I have done Pearl on. The trailer a number of times. Hook the trailer hitch to the vehicle and use the lock pin. I just run out a couple of feet of cable, pass a line around a tree a tree and to both aft cleats, and slowly pull forward. Winch it back when done. Hooking up the trailer is extremely important for safety.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
There's nothing wrong with doing it the way you do. That's how I paint the spaces under the jackstands on my C&C 35. I ask the marina operator to pick up my boat with the travelift at closing time, and leave it hanging in the slings overnight. I paint it that evening, it dries at night, and it's launched in the morning. Whatever works is good.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
I want to thank you all for your comments. I successfully painted my c25 bottom while on the trailer. I simply secured a dock line from aft cleats around a telephone pull in my alley. Secured trailer to my truck and let out a foot of winch, slowley moved forward till I was in position to prepare and paint. One thing that I learned not mentioned is, make sure your line around pole, tree or what ever your securing to is the same height as aft cleats. Securing at the bottom of the pole puts to much pressure on the aft cleats pulling down rather then just sliding back on trailer.
I need input on another issue if anyone out their can help.. I had my Honda 9.9 outboard taken off my boat last night while parked in marina.. yes, some thief stole my out board.. I need to replace.. is the tahatsu pro sail 6hp with 12amp generator a good choice.. 20" or 25" shaft.. I looked at the new 9.9 Honda. Seems to be heavy. I would think lighter weight is better. Any suggestions from you all would be appreciated.. I need to make a decision pretty quick.. thanks again. Jeff
There's nothing wrong with doing it the way you do. That's how I paint the spaces under the jackstands on my C&C 35. I ask the marina operator to pick up my boat with the travelift at closing time, and leave it hanging in the slings overnight. I paint it that evening, it dries at night, and it's launched in the morning.
Exactly what I do, but it sounds like he plans to ramp-launch off the trailer--not have it dropped in.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
6 HP 25"would be marginal if the weather was an issue, keeping in mind that some of that horsepower will be driving the alternator if your battery isn't fully charged.. It would probably suffice on a smaller inland lake, but 8 HP is really what you should have. 9.9 HP is what most of it use because it usually offers all of the other features we want even though we don't really benefit from going beyond about 3/4 throttle.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Nothing wrong with Tohatsu. I was torn between Mercury (turn the throttle one way to go forward, the other to reverse) and Tohatsu until a dealer split the difference in price between the two. It didn't hurt that the Admiral told me to get what I wanted since this motors last so long. Tohatsu provides the power heads for Mercury and are reliable and lighter motors. Check the link and discount for On Line Outboards on the Links page
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
The 9.8 Tohatsu/Nissan/Mercury (same motor, different labels), elec start, 25" shaft is a great motor for the C25. Online Outboards is about 30 miles from where we live and are good people to deal with. The Tohatsu version is a bit less cost than the other two, I had the Nissan version, and I have bought a 4 and a 5 hp outboard from them for our yacht club boats. No sales tax if you live outside TN.
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
Looks like ill have to find another 9.9 Honda.. new ones are almost 3000.00 dollars..
Save a few C-notes and get a Honda 8 Power-thrust XLS--same exact motor as the 9.9 except for the cam timing, which is oriented toward lower-end torque while the 9.9 is cammed for higher RPM HP--that according to a Honda factory rep at a boat show.
And the Honda is more difficult to steal off the boat than the Tohatsu...
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Well....good news...received a call from local police and they recovered my outboard.. Lesson learned.. use the lock you already own.. Anyways I am happy to have my property back.. My wife reminded me that my prayers were answered, I will donate 100 dollars to our veterans memorial park.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.