Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
it looks like my trim pieces on the face of the slide and the eyebrows have split at a seam where they were originally glued together from smaller pieces. I tried to repair this 2 years ago. anyone have any luck or a good technique? I'm just about ready to buy new lumber and recut them. I'd like to avoid that cost if i can . Even from ebay it looks like the wood will cost 70 to 80 dollars. I wish I could find someone local in va that sold rough teak boards to lower the cost.
teak isn't your only choice. we use Honduran mahogany which looks identical to teak at half the price. we finally removed the eyebrow and placed a small beauty ring and sealed screws there. another option is to use metal as a facing for the front of the slide and a small stainless handle. I've even seen metal used as a facing for the hatchboard slides. Didn't see screw there so they may have been glued over the old wood.
Lynn Buchanan 1988 C25 SR/WK #5777 Sailynn Nevada City, CA
The oval teak trim ring around the cockpit coaming pocket came unglued on my C25. I simply glued it together with white waterproof carpenter's wood glue, kept it coated with a good sealant afterwards, and never had a reccurrance. I have heard it said that teak is difficult to glue because it is an oily wood, but that didn't seem to be a problem for that repair.
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
A two part resorcinol glue is an option for teak, as are urethanes like Gorilla Glue. De-oil the surfaces with mineral spirits and dry with alcohol immediately before gluing. No guaranties
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I replaced my eyebrows with mahogany. I had some 2x4 deck lumber which I sliced thin-wise on my table saw. I used the old ones for templates and created two 3/4" x 3" x 10" (roughly) pieces and once I painted them with Cetol, they looked pretty close to the original teak. They are a little darker but it doesn't make a lot for difference, the eyebrows are simply an ornament and serve no functional purpose. I also replaced the companionway threshold with mahogany. Again, no biggie. It holds up well and highlights the teak very well. Once I complete my brightwork we shall see whether it passes muster.
Yes, resorcenol is a good choice for teak but it will leave a purple glue line. I personally have had good results with gorilla glue, "original". Follow the instructions carefully and clean the glue joints first with acetone to remove surface oils. good luck with your repairs.
Is it me? Or does Gorilla Glue just turn into foamy brownish white snot that fills the gap and swells up inside the joint? I just don't seem to get it!
Yes, gorilla glue expands and you will see a brownish foam from the glue joint. Wipe this away as it happens to save yourself a lot of sanding later. The expansion is also why a gorilla glue joint should be clamped.
So I've sanded the teak brightwork in my garage and I've filled any dings and screw holes with teak sawdust and glue (aka teak wood filler). Now I have two questions for this very knowledgeable forum. 1. What's the best procedure for cleaning any dark spots in the wood - greyish or blackish areas in the grain. I've read that oxalic acid will remove them but then you have to thoroughly rinse it a let dry for three days. Then apply your finish. Any suggestions? 2. My crib boards consist of two slats butted together and held in place by a rabbeted joint with the edge boards. On one of the boards the butt joint shrunk enough to allow daylight and debris to get in between. Is there a good solution for this? I may be able to clean out the crust, then glue and clamp it. Would it be better to try and fill it somehow?
Oxcalic acid will work as a teak cleaner or you can use a commercial teak cleaner brightener. Personally I like some streaks, Adds character rather than a uniform look but that's a personal thing. Can you snap a picture of the crib boards? It be easier to make any suggestions.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.