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glivs
Admiral

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USA
822 Posts
Response Posted - 02/22/2017 :  17:02:58  Show Profile
Bruce....have you looked into Waterlox marine finishes? It is a two part approach similar to what you are asking...apply two coats of a tung oil based sealer and then top with a diluted spar varnish. As I understand it, application is similar to teak oil, but offers a flexible topcoat similar to Cetol, and sanding from one season to the next is "optional". I have not seen it in person but seems to get good reviews and preserves the natural grain of the wood. If I were redoing my brightwork, I would consider this.
Gerry & Leslie; Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972
Edited by - glivs on 02/22/2017 17:05:02
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts
Response Posted - 02/24/2017 :  14:25:52  Show Profile
That's why I mentioned it here. The last time I sanded down to wood and finished the teak I first applied Deks Oljies oil-based finish which soaked in and looked great, then to "seal" I applied Cetol which was the tinted stuff.
I was thinking "stain then polyurethane " like I'd done around the house.
It held up well for several years.
I thought I'd do the same this time but I have the clear Cetol. I guess I could test it out both ways on the backside or on some scrap.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts
Response Posted - 02/26/2017 :  11:41:05  Show Profile
Gerry, no I haven't seen this before. I was looking at the original coating from last time and while it held up well, it seemed I had put it on a little too thick. Once I get all my brightwork back to clean wood I think this time I'll go with Cetol. I have a can of Cetol Marine Natural Teak that should do it. If I thin the first coat, should I do a total of three coats?
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts
Response Posted - 03/12/2017 :  16:06:14  Show Profile
Huge advantage to it. Rarely have to reapply, protects and looks great for what it is.
Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN
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Sailynn
Navigator

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USA
178 Posts
Response Posted - 03/12/2017 :  23:17:52  Show Profile
Yes you can put Cetol over oiled wood that has dried, but you can't put varnish over Cetol wood. I think I remember you can't put Cetol over Tung oil.
Lynn Buchanan
1988 C25 SR/WK #5777
Sailynn
Nevada City, CA
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5231 Posts
Response Posted - 03/13/2017 :  18:36:32  Show Profile
Yes I'm going to apply it solo. According to the literature the Cetol has a honey color and a satin finish. Should be nice.
Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts
Response Posted - 03/15/2017 :  15:59:40  Show Profile
This is 3 - 4 coats of Cetol Natural Teak:


Close hauled at 4
Close hauled at 4 knots SOG with 2/3 of the genoa, except when crashing into 3 - 4 footers

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts
Response Posted - 03/17/2017 :  16:11:05  Show Profile
outside teak needs 3-4 coats of Cetol for it to hold up. It will last for three years without any touching up needed. Lightly sand between each coat. Inside use only needs 1-2 coats. I recommend the natural teak color as it's the lightest in color.
Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)
Edited by - JamesBird on 03/17/2017 16:12:52
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts
Response Posted - 03/18/2017 :  10:33:33  Show Profile
Scuffing and single layer recoat is recommended annually. How long it holds up depends on surface wear and sunlight. I couldn't drive after hand surgery last year and face a little more work after 2 years of Ohio and Florida sun. It isn't as hard as varnish, so the frequently grabbed handrails are very worn.

edit: I don't sand between coats. I do hatch boards, trim, and rails separately and recoat at shorter intervals so I can do 3-4 coats on a section a day. The layers still bond well if I recoat when its dry to the touch and wipes town with a tackcloth without drag.. I would scuff with a Scotchbrite in between if it dried overnight.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Edited by - Dave5041 on 03/18/2017 12:44:37
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.