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What is this hardware on my boom?

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sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/12/2016 : 21:19:39

On the starboard side of my boom, I have a block, a couple of fairleads, and a cleat. It's never had any line since I've owned the boat. Is this for reefing?

Here's a photo:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0ZG4TcsmGnBx1l

Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/

Edited by - sethp001 on 08/12/2016 21:20:37

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2016 : 04:22:17

Hello,

Yeppers. looks like your reefing system to me. On the opposite side of the boom from the cheek block should be a padeye where the reefing line will start from, then up thru the reefing clew and down to the cheek block on the starboard side then led back thru another padeye or two along the boom to end at a cleat of one type or another towards the front of the boom.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2016 : 04:45:38

All part of the original 2 line reefing system.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2016 : 12:33:21

I like that system much better than mine. I was trying to rig a single line system and it was more complicated to set up. I will definitely convert my reef kit to that style. I think my cleat on the mast might be missing though, I have a new one.

Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2016 : 13:26:42

I think 2-line reefing is better than one--primarily because two lines let you set the reef tack (forward) before you set the reef clew (aft), avoiding potentially popping a slug out of the mast slot and getting better tension on the foot of the sail. It also halves the friction from the reef cringles, so setting the reef is a little easier, even if it involves two pulls.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/13/2016 13:29:49

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 08/14/2016 : 18:03:59

Thanks. You guys are the best. That also explains the extra cleat on the starboard side of my mast I've wondered about.

From Scott's diagram, it looks like I would only rig the reefing line when reefing. Is that right?

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2016 : 04:14:35

The lines should already be rigged and long enough so as to not be tight when the sail is fully up. You don't put them on and off when you want to reef.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2016 : 09:00:00

quote:
Originally posted by sethp001

...it looks like I would only rig the reefing line when reefing. Is that right?

As already said, no. When you recognize the need to reef, it's likely that conditions are worsening. You want to be able to just release the halyard, pull in the reef tack line (forward), then the reef clew line, and then re-tension the halyard. You don't want to be rigging the lines then. A common technique is to mark the halyard where it should be cleated when the reef is set, so you can re-cleat it before pulling the reef lines--possibly avoiding it blowing away.

This all plays to the old saying, "The time to reef is when you first think about it." Sometimes that's at the dock--"shaking out" (releasing) the reef later is easy.

This reminds me of a cruise heading west on Long Island Sound in our brand-new-to-us C-25 when a big green-black squall line appeared ahead of us. NOAA was reporting 70 mph winds on the western Sound... We started the motor, dropped the main, rolled up the genny, and made hull-speed into the CT River and a cove with moorings. We barely had the mooring pennants on the bow cleats when it hit--blowing limbs off trees into the cove, and the shrouds shrieking in the blast. I hate to think how it would've been out there... Vigilance is critical!

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/15/2016 09:15:14

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2016 : 09:13:03

The reefing lines should always be in place and ready to use. The problem with trying to run the lines after the conditions get bad is that, by that time, the boat is already heeling excessively, and it's hard to stand up in a violently rolling boat and to reach up high and run the line through the grommet and through the block with your shaking hands while steering with your ankle. The best time to run those reef lines is in the spring, when you first launch the boat.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2016 : 19:00:31

Thanks everyone. Your information and advice are very illuminating.

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.