Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hatch is checked off the list...a boat wright in our shipyard adapted a hatch he had...works great! We will need a weatherboard now...will order from Catalina Direct....we are debating doing the bright work ourselves v.s. Getting new pieces...grab rails, companionway teak trim, etc....there are some deep grooves in that wood! How do you all make that call? It's a Catalina 25 1984....after All! Thanks, K
I can make this suggestion. Remove the brightwork and sand off the crust. You should then find some decent wood under there. Also save some of the clean sawdust - you can use it with wood glue to fill in gaps and defects in the finish. Or... You could buy new teak, but when you get ready to throw out the old pieces, ask yourself are they really trash?
I agree with Bruce, I think you will be amazed at how well the teak looks after a little cleaner/brightener, A little sanding and a few coats of varnish. I wouldn't remove any pieces, To time consuming. It takes less time to tape it off. Keep in mind it's a boat that is outdoors and not your indoor furniture. Follow the ten foot rule. If it looks great from ten feet away then go sailing!
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
I have a 1980, that had ben badly neglected for @10 years prior to me, and the teak never had varnish. That said, teak is a very forgiving wood and as stated, when cleaned and brightened using various scrub brushes and even a bronze-wire brush, the teak will sparkle. I use teak oil (no varnish) and every year scrub with a light brush, let dry and then apply teak oil and the wood still looks great (great based on the 20ft rule, really, really good when closer). If you choose to varnish, clean and prep well, apply the many coats of varnish (or sealer and varnish) and the teak will look "new" . . . . and be much smoother that you may think possible.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
A lady who detailed boats for a living on the Gulf Coast told me, that in a marine environment Cetol will last longer and look better over time than varnish. If she was asked to use varnish it cost twice as much and she applied 14 coats!
Derek Crawford Chief Measurer C25-250 2008 Previous owner of "This Side UP" 1981 C-25 TR/FK #2262 Used to have an '89 C22 #9483, "Downsized" San Antonio, Texas
The advantage with Cetol, in my experience, is ease of maintenance. You can easily touch up worn areas and add dress coats with just some light sanding. Varnish becomes a problem when it (eventually) cracks and peels--the only real solution is to remove it entirely and start over.
Another option some friends of mine use is Semco, a "sealer" that adds less color and looks more like unfinished teak, but resists the mildew that makes black streaks in teak. They've been happy with it for some 20 years.
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
14coats really isn't that much. Walk around any marina and ask the guy with the shiny wood transom how many coats of varnish he has on and he will likely say upwards of. 30.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
I can make this suggestion. Remove the brightwork and sand off the crust. You should then find some decent wood under there. Also save some of the clean sawdust - you can use it with wood glue to fill in gaps and defects in the finish. Or... You could buy new teak, but when you get ready to throw out the old pieces, ask yourself are they really trash?
I agree with Bruce, I think you will be amazed at how well the teak looks after a little cleaner/brightener, A little sanding and a few coats of varnish. I wouldn't remove any pieces, To time consuming. It takes less time to tape it off. Keep in mind it's a boat that is outdoors and not your indoor furniture. Follow the ten foot rule. If it looks great from ten feet away then go sailing!
Ok, I'm convinced...ill put the cleaner to it and the palm sander and then cetol....it does look good..... K
If you chose to leave the teak in the boat, be careful with teak cleaner and brightener solutions. I've seen permanent run marks on the aluminum port light trim rings where the cleaner ran down the sides of the cabin top. Post pix too!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.