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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
(has anyone rebuilt one of these? WHILE it's on the boat? any tips? thx)
Not sure what you mean ? If it is the CDI flexible furler, there's precious little to rebuild. There is the internal halyard and a thrust washer in the drum. What parts are you looking to replace ?
"Lady E" 1986 Catalina 25: Fin Keel, Standard Rig, Inboard M12 Diesel, Sail No. 5339 Sailing out of Norwalk Cove Marina, Connecticut
I thought there was either a ball bearing pack or a solid Teflon race in there guessing that'll need replacement the drum is also pretty beat up, although I may be able to bang it back into some kind of shape main question is: can I disassembe from the bottom end, or must the whole assembly be off the boat? thanks
I thought there was either a ball bearing pack or a solid Teflon race in there guessing that'll need replacement the drum is also pretty beat up, although I may be able to bang it back into some kind of shape main question is: can I disassembe from the bottom end, or must the whole assembly be off the boat? thanks
Yes, the CDI Flex Furler can be disassembled while still on the boat. You will need to release the forestay when you do this. Be sure to remove the mainsail and boom from the mast to minimize the weight pulling aft on the mast. It would probably be a good idea to take the sail off the furler also. Attach the jib halyard to the bow pulpit and pull it tight to support the mast while the forestay is disassembled. You will need a pair of locking pliers to mount to the forestay to support the weight of the furler shaft when you disassemble the drum. Finally, set up a box, bag or some other device to catch all the little pieces on the furler when you disassemble it. I've done this myself on a Cat 22. It's possible, but not very recommended.
I found no thrust washer on disassembly, plus wear atop the HDPE bearing anyone know the specs on that washer? guessing the bearing should probably be replaced?
also, does anyone know the preferred angle/cofiguration the furling sheet *should* take when exiting the furler drum, for maximum leverage/purchase?
I found no thrust washer on disassembly, plus wear atop the HDPE bearing anyone know the specs on that washer? guessing the bearing should probably be replaced?
also, does anyone know the preferred angle/cofiguration the furling sheet *should* take when exiting the furler drum, for maximum leverage/purchase?
Rolf, Just a thought, but in order for everything to move smoothly inside the drum, do you need to smooth out the aluminum drum somehow? Looks pretty dinged up. A ball peen hammer comes to mind as does a 3/4" rounded end pine dowel for coaxing the can back into shape. A little shot of silver or white spray paint would make the the renovation complete.
yes, I banged the cup back into shape - everything good, except no thrust washer - trying to find a 2.75 OD x 1/8" SS washer - actually found if locally, but they closed before I figured tzhat out, and I gotta leave town before they open on Monday - grrr
back together, and working great - had to rotate the cup 90¡ to use the alternate (unworn) bolt holes - fuling sheet going outside the first stanchion, which I'm not sure about, but seems to function well that way
Note: the thrust washer size is *not* 2.75", as CDI told me, but 2-5/8" - best match seems to be an M36 bolt washer, 66mm OD - standard part, available off-the-shelf in A4 SS - I temporarily used a 1" grade 8 washer, 2.5" OD
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.