Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK, I ordered a new swing keel cable kit its on the way. I will replace it when it gets here or some weeks later as my new hip heals.
I was under there scoping the job and I notices that the keel has some free side to side play. There are two washers on each side. They are not stainless I think since they are rusting. I include the photo of one side. They are on both.
When they put the boat on blocks they put a chain under the keel supporting it.
How much play is there in the keel from side to side. Suspended this way should it have any side to side play. If so How much. If not How do you get rid of it.
I use a stainless washer next to the bronze housing and a nylon one against the keel. That has kept it secure with very little play for several years and protects the bronze fitting from wear. Hardware store stainless is often a less corrosion resistant and cheaper grade of stainless. You might check the pivot pin fit. The hole in the keel is often worn and needs to be sleeved
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I use a stainless washer next to the bronze housing and a nylon one against the keel. That has kept it secure with very little play for several years and protects the bronze fitting from wear. Hardware store stainless is often a less corrosion resistant and cheaper grade of stainless. You might check the pivot pin fit. The hole in the keel is often worn and needs to be sleeved
Thanks for the feedback Dave. I hate always finding more work ;)
OK how much work is this.
What are the precautions. Is the procedure to gradually lower the keel with the bolts showing in the picture. you just lower the assembly . Sounds like if I'm having wobble I need the kit?
One of the things they stress is that when you change-out the pivot it's important to add the shims between the head of the keel and the sides of the case. Otherwise, with the head free to move from side to side within the case all that is resisting lateral rocking of the keel is the four bolts supporting the pivot hangers. Instead of just supporting the vertical load of the keel they are then also subject to a lot of additional leverage loading.
The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.
Lee Panza SR/SK #2134 San Francisco Bay (Brisbane, CA)
Thanks for the Posts. This is why I posted this. When they put it in blocks they did a nice job, they supported the keel with a chain, but with the chain I was surprised at how much lateral motion there was to the keel, I will drop it and check it out after I watch the videos a docs. Thanks Lee
Thanks for the Posts. This is why I posted this. When they put it in blocks they did a nice job, they supported the keel with a chain, but with the chain I was surprised at how much lateral motion there was to the keel, I will drop it and check it out after I watch the videos a docs. Thanks Lee
Thanks the docs were helpful. I'm surprised there isn't a picture of the keel cable replacement parts and the pin boring and replacement.
I have a couple of weeks to heal before I can climb aboard but Ill take pics when I do it.
I always have trouble finding my swing keel repair post, and its too irritating to type various parameters with one hand. There are more details in my earlier post. I did it with hand drilling slightly oversized and slow cure, super high strength epoxy. The forward end of the keel needs to be blocked. I left the keel retracted, lowered it a few inches at the forward end onto the trailer, and put wood wedges on both sides of the keel and into the trunk for stability. The whole process took 2 days because the epoxy took 24 hours to cure. Removing and transporting the keel for a press fitting would be a real undertaking.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I've just replaced the swing keel bolts again ever several years. The suggestion is to check them for tightness each year. Because of low water last year I did hit bottom at a marina so this year was a replace bolts year. I used the CD kit but substituted Permatex #2 to coat the bolts because that's what was available when the boat was new and no problem so far. The side play I used SS washers with the original plastic and glued thick carpeting on each side of the keel cut to not be below the box when the keel is down. I used construction adhesive. No clunk since.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.