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Bottom paint

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MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/21/2016 : 06:12:59

So, since we're on the subject of paint....
The PO of my boat did an awful job painting the bottom of the boat with, I think, a two part epoxy. I'm not sure what it is, but you can see the original bottom color through it because it's translucent. He did a terrible job and it's full of runs and drips and sags. I almost wonder if he just took epoxy resin and coated the bottom with it.

So I need some advice,
I'm assuming I have to grind away anything I want removed but I am hoping I can limit it to basically fairing the bottom rather than stripping it all off.

Then for repainting, is there a good non-ablative bottom paint I could use. We are lucky that we get very little bio fouling in our lake. At the end of the season a quick scrub brush while anchored at the beach is fine. Or we pull it through the car wash bay and spray and use the soap brush.

The ironic thing is that in ten year of owning the boat, I have never had to do a thing to the bottom. It just looks soooo bad. I also suspect that the poor finish adds a bit of drag.

I would love to redo it with something of similar durability that doesn't need to be freshened up every couple of years.

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2016 : 07:43:13

If your lake is as clean as you indicate, you might be able to get by without antifouling paint at all. Antifouling paint fights two conditions - barnacles and slime. If you have no barnacles on your lake and very little slime, I can't think of any other reason to use antifouling paint. Are there any other boaters who are foregoing it?

Regarding the other condition, without photos, we could only make wild guesses as to what the PO put on it. Even with photos, it might be difficult. If you can post photos, we can try, but I think your best bet is to show it to a local marina technician and see if he can identify it. Once you know what it is, that will tell you how to deal with it.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2016 : 08:16:23

It sorta sounds like epoxy resin--probably applied to prevent blistering or cover up blister repairs. Barrier coat paints are generally thinner, so wouldn't sag like your description suggests. If it is epoxy, I'd just fair it without going through it--it's not a bad idea for fresh water, which promotes blisters more than salt water does. As for paint, I second Steve's suggestions. The anti-slime biocides found in some hard paints will not persist for very many seasons, so painting might not be worth it except for appearance.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2016 : 10:57:46

I will have to send pics in the fall. I might have some but they won't be close ups. I am fine with leaving it as a player and just sanding it smooth. If I did want to paint it for aesthetic reasons, what would you recommend. I think it's fairly safe to assume it's epoxy resin.

The number one priority would be durability. Anti fouling would come second.

I also won't be surprised if the answer is "the epoxy coating will be the most durable"

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"

DavidBuoy
Admiral

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USA
707 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2016 : 11:00:58

Sounds kind of like the Gluvit epoxy I tried out before. Sort of yellowish hue and translucent.

Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson
"David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053

Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2016 : 17:10:49

I have been using sea hawk products for a few years now and very happy withe results. I belive they have a fresh water product, but I used a barrier coat and an ablative antifoulant. I ordered from the bottom paint store and the price was good and I think free shipping over a certain amount, but that might have been promotional.

Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2016 : 17:31:53

Had a small walk around power boat years ago that the PO decided to keep it on a trailer. He removed the bottom paint and to make it look good after sanding it down he painted it with a blue epoxy paint. I had the boat for 6yrs and it looked great for as long as I owned it.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2016 : 19:43:56

Just about any "hard" bottom paint should be fine--pick a color and a price. Many call themselves "epoxy" but are one-part (no hardener), so they aren't true epoxy like the two-part barrier coats.

Whatever antifouling (for slime or other growth) is in the paint, it will be ineffective after your first winter storage on the hard. Which leads to a question: Is you lake free of zebra mussels? They're a rapidly spreading pest.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2016 : 10:29:42

Our lake is not free of zebra mussels, but they are not a large problem yet. Spiny waterflea and Eurasian milfoil are a bigger issue at the moment. The state recently started setting up a boat wash program at state launches and other sites to slow the spread. They also now have stewards that are supposed to be patrolling and checking peoples boats at the launches. Our lake has 4 public launches and one steward, but we also have at least a dozen private launches with no checks or washes.
This year we are going to pull the boat out around labor day and move it to a friends place on Lake George. I will definitely be cleaning the bottom before dunking it, but I am more concerned about stuff moving from LG to our lake than the other way around. Their zebra mussel problem is really bad.

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"

Edited by - MrKawfey on 05/26/2016 10:30:11

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2016 : 14:38:53

Hmmm... Well, IF you need real antifouling (for crustaceans as well as slime), I'd go with a dual-biocide ablative. You should be able to get a couple of seasons or more from an initial two coats, and it won't lose its antifouling properties during winter storage, as hard paints do. It also won't require periodic removal--it wears away. You can touch up thin areas every year or two, and put a new coat on every few years. Some people use a contrasting color for the initial coat, to "signal" when they need to re-paint. In your fresh water situation, you can probably use whatever that stuff is on your hull as your signal--just pick a different color paint.

Another, different approach is VC-17, which is a thin-film hard paint. I'll let others with experience speak to that.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/26/2016 14:45:24

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2016 : 16:48:15

Ablatives include the co-polymers in addition to the soft ablatives. Rub it down with a Scotch-brite pad before launch and it will last a couple of seasons and wear away. The best approach is to see what local sailors find effective.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

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