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MrKawfey
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USA
124 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/17/2016 :  10:31:54  Show Profile
It's been a while since I have been on this forum as we've missed a couple of sailing seasons. Which brings me to my question. The deck of our '84 was pretty nasty this spring so I needed to pressure wash it to get all of the grime off. After blasting it clean I noticed a few spots around the cockpit that seemed to have a blue color showing through.

Is it possible that in '84 my boat was originally one of the baby blue ones? I suppose it could have been painted at some point, but if it was, it would have been an impeccable paint job.

What seems more plausible to me is that I might have worn through the gel coat to the next layer. Why would it be blue though?

For the record, I have only used a high pressure washer once before when we first bought the boat about 10 years ago. Other than that it has been cleaned each year at the car wash stall with the scrub brush and soap and hosed down. The finish has been pretty oxidized for many years if it matters.

Thoughts?

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"

JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2016 :  10:52:51  Show Profile
That's interesting. I have a '79 that also has some blue showing through on the cockpit hatch and bulkheads. Looks the the boat may have been blue originally and then repainted? Hard to tell if it's worn gel coat or paint.

Jim

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2016 :  10:53:33  Show Profile
Likely that gel coat has worn thin. We see a few C25s here and there with this issue. Also likely that boat left the factory with thinner than desired gel coat in that area. I used ScrubFree on the cockpit of a previous boat and current owner recently commented on some blue areas.


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 05/17/2016 10:57:03
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JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2016 :  13:22:27  Show Profile
Would you recommend just painting the areas with a good quality topside paint such as interlux?

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2016 :  14:22:24  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hi Everyone,

I am certainly no expert, but while doing some heavy sanding on my boat I have sanded deep enough to see blue. I am betting that I went past the gel coat. I am aware that this was not desirable but it was necessary. Just my opinion of course.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 05/17/2016 :  15:31:00  Show Profile
I suspect that the first spay of gelcoat is blue, gets masked and sprayed white. A fast buff to smooth the edges and you have adequate thickness of gelcoat and all your colors in place.


Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  05:14:49  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by JamesBird

Would you recommend just painting the areas with a good quality topside paint such as interlux?


I never recommend paint over gel coat - not durable - but lots of people do it.


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame
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JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  07:59:18  Show Profile
Is gel coat hard to apply?

Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  15:01:23  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by JamesBird

Is gel coat hard to apply?


Challenging for the uninitiated. More of an art IMHO.


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  17:25:41  Show Profile
Gel coat is preferable, of course, but paint is a reasonable alternative, especially if you don't have the skill to do gel coat yourself. Also, it depends on where you paint. Painting non-skid is fairly easy, looks good and is reasonably durable. Kiwigrip nonskid paint looks good and holds up well, is easy to apply and is easy to re-do as needed.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  17:29:01  Show Profile
I started to see the blue on the sides of my 84, and decided the only action was poly glo. I prefer a buff and wax, but buffing was no longer an option. Poly glo has worked out very well on the sides although I know a lot of you don't like it on the top side. It is at least an alternative to paint or now.


Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

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MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  17:45:19  Show Profile
Did the poly glow help with the blue coloring showing through?

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  17:53:36  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hi Everyone,

I read somewhere that you should only paint as a last resort. Buff and Polish for as long as it still works and delivers the desired results. Once you paint you will always have to repaint when the time comes. I don't remember if it said about every two to four years. Might be dependent on your location.


Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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offshoreaccount
1st Mate

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USA
71 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  18:02:59  Show Profile
Very dependent on your location. Paint lasts a lot more up north than in the FL sun.

Offshore Account, 1977 Hull #243. SR, SK
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MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  18:09:29  Show Profile
I have a friend that redid a Boston whaler and had the whole thing painted with Imron paint inside and out. It's been about 15 years since he did it and he hasn't yet had to repaint. It certainly shows it's age in the form of chips and dings, but it still shines nice.
The boat is in lake George ny and only the console gets covered during the summer. In the winter it's stored under a car port

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  18:11:26  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Bladeswell

Hi Everyone,

I read somewhere that you should only paint as a last resort. Buff and Polish for as long as it still works and delivers the desired results.
That's true.

quote:
Once you paint you will always have to repaint when the time comes. I don't remember if it said about every two to four years. Might be dependent on your location.


Bladeswell

That's also true, but the crux of the matter is how long will a paint job last. Lots of boats are painted and look good after many years. It depends on how well you take care of it. My Cal was painted by the PO and still looks good. The paint on the hull looks good. The paint on the non-skid is getting thin and will probably take a 1/2 day to mask it and a day to apply 1-2 coats, and it's an easy DIY job. The non-skid wears much faster than the hull, because you walk on it, but it's easier to re-do. Avoid painting if you can, but if not, paint it.

Also, you don't have to paint the whole boat. If the gel coat on the hull is ok, then just paint the decks as needed

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore
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MrKawfey
Navigator

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USA
124 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2016 :  18:53:31  Show Profile
Steve, that's such a refreshing reply. Typically these threads degenerate into doom and gloom warnings about how there is a special place in hell reserved for people who paint their boat.

Chris
Sacandaga Lake, NY
1984 C25 SRSK
"Les's Moor"
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2016 :  08:41:57  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hello Again,

That's good news because my boat falls under the must paint category. The deck and cockpit for sure. I will also be painting the interior. BTW, my boat had a decal of the boats name and at some point in the past, was painted over. Will rubbing compound remove the paint enough to be able to get the decal off ? I find it annoying that I can still see and feel the old name. And it was done rather large. Thanks.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3754 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2016 :  13:59:56  Show Profile
Decals frequently leave a slightly raised ghost when removed that sunlight takes care of. That might be all you have. Use stripper to remove the paint and a heat gun and plastic scraper for the decal if present. Light sanding should take care of it.


Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Edited by - Dave5041 on 05/20/2016 14:00:34
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/20/2016 :  18:31:26  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by MrKawfey

Did the poly glow help with the blue coloring showing through?

Poli Glow is a clear polymer finish--some liken it to Mop-n-Glow, and there might be some distant relationship... Whatever you put it on, it will emphasize and virtually imortalize any imperfections, marks, etc. So you need to make the surfaces you're applying it to look just the way you want (except for the shine). I predict Poly Glow will make the blue brighter and bolder--not covered up in any way.

The primary issue I see with paint is that when it (eventually) starts to crack and peel, it pretty much has to be completely removed so you can start over. Otherwise, the next paint job will have shallow craters and other surface imperfections, which the shiny new paint will emphasize, making it look like a bad paint job. I've seen it too often. I'm not trying to preach "gloom and doom"--just reporting what I've witnessed in the past half century or more.

The most durable boat paints are the 2-part polymer versions like Interlux Perfection and Pettit EZPoxy--the do-it-yourself versions of professional finishes like Imron and Awlgrip. Note that when a professional re-does Awlgrip or Imron, he removes all traces of the previous finish--a big project I've witnessed.

One-part polyurethanes like Interlux Brightside are a little simpler to apply, but you get what you work for in terms of durability and adhesion. Interlux and Pettit also have non-skid versions--I don't know about them except both companies are big names in the business.

As Steve says, non-skid is the most prone to wear due to its shape as well as the traffic. It's also a discrete area you can paint without having to do everything around it. A small amount of paint on the existing pattern might be work... If not, a top-coat with the grit additive will make it safe and look good. Beyond that, I'd lean against painting a fiberglass boat, and try everything I could think of to restore the gelcoat. But I haven't faced that choice. I can say I probably would not buy a previously painted fiberglass boat. That's just me...

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 05/20/2016 19:46:52
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bigelowp
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1736 Posts

Response Posted - 05/21/2016 :  05:26:56  Show Profile
I have a brown color coming through on the deck, heavy traffic area, of my 1980, no issues (yet) with the topsides. Living and sailing in one of the most costly boating areas anywhere -- the NY metro area -- when I first bought Limerick I needed to have a hull/deck repair done. The guy I used had done work for me before with an earlier boat, is a fiberglass boat repair specialist with a sizable facility that usually has "interesting" projects going on with big-budget vessels. At that time I asked which was cheaper: applying Awlgrip or re-gel coating the topsides. To my surprise his answer was gel coat is cheaper and better for topsides and some coach/deck work but for non skid areas it will result in a very slick deck so he recommended painting the non-skid, as has been mentioned here, and gel coating the smooth surfaces -- and only if they need them. The area of work on Limerick was at the bow and he needed to re-gel coat an area and wow, does it look great even close to a decade later. However applying gel coat is NOT for an amateur: much knowledge, experience and "art" is involved. That said, if and when it really is a point that something must be done -- and you plan on keeping your boat long-term -- then it may be that re-gel coating is the way to go.

Peter Bigelow
C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick
Rowayton, Ct
Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT

Edited by - bigelowp on 06/08/2016 12:23:26
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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
141 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2016 :  06:57:36  Show Profile
Greetings - I'd like to share this about gel coat, when I removed my outboard bracket last year, the 1st layer of fiber glass came off with it. After some debate I decided to go for it and do it myself. After layering in the fiberglass matt and resin (and getting it smooth) it was time for gel coat. Frankly it was easy - I did as a you-tube video suggested and built up about 3 layers changing direction of brush strokes on each layer, then sanded with 320/400/600 then buffed. The repair came you great, you can see a slight change in color from the original, the new gel coat is a tad whiter but the edges blended in smoothly after buffing. Gel coat is not difficult IMHO but it does take a little practice, in my particular application I found I had to use at least twice the hardner as recommended. The gel coat is not cheap at WM but the quality was great.
HTH
Jan

82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/27/2016 :  10:19:17  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by JanS48

Greetings - I'd like to share this about gel coat, when I removed my outboard bracket last year, the 1st layer of fiber glass came off with it...
5200.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 05/28/2016 :  13:58:12  Show Profile
New Sail article.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2016 :  09:39:20  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hello Again,

So, what does gel coat do ? What is its intended purpose ?
Thanks.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3992 Posts

Response Posted - 06/06/2016 :  10:54:01  Show Profile
Gelcoat provides the color. By tinting and provides gloss and UV protection.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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